Funnel Neck Jacket Sewing Pattern: Step-by-Step Guide

A high collar, a neat row of buttons, and a lining that feels lovely on the inside—those are the details I love about this funnel neck jacket. It is a practical piece to sew for cooler days, with an optional matching belt when you want a little more shape at the waist.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through using my funnel neck jacket sewing pattern, choosing fabric, assembling the outer jacket, and adding the lining. We’ll also finish the sleeve hems with the raw edges tucked inside and give the collar enough support to hold its shape. If you have already sewn a few garments and feel ready to try a lined jacket, take it one step at a time with me.

Before choosing your fabric, think about what you’ll wear underneath. A jacket for a thin top needs a different amount of layering room than one you plan to wear over your favorite sweater. That little decision will help you choose your size and make a jacket you enjoy wearing.

Watch the Funnel Neck Jacket Sewing Video Tutorial

Follow along with my video tutorial below, and keep the written steps nearby for the cutting list, fabric requirements, and sewing order.

I recommend watching the lining and sleeve-finishing sections before sewing those steps. Seeing how the outer fabric and lining connect makes it much easier to recognize which edges belong together.

Funnel Neck Jacket: Project Details

Detail	What to know
Style	Button-front jacket with a funnel neck collar
Construction	Fully lined, including the sleeves
Optional detail	Matching fabric belt with three belt loops
Main fabric	Stable, non-stretch woven fabric
Seam allowance used in this tutorial	1 cm, approximately 3/8 inch
Closure	Approximately 8–9 buttons, depending on placement
Sewing experience	Best if you are comfortable sewing garments and ready to practice lining and buttonholes

The collar, enclosed sleeve hems, and buttonholes deserve a little extra time. You do not need to rush through the whole jacket in one sitting: preparing the pieces, sewing the shell, and adding the lining make useful stopping points.

What You’ll Need

• Main fabric for the outer jacket
• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing suited to your main fabric
• Approximately 8–9 buttons
• Matching thread
• Sewing machine and a needle suitable for your fabric
• Buttonhole foot or your machine’s recommended buttonhole attachment
• Fabric scissors, pins or sewing clips, and a washable fabric marker
• Iron and pressing cloth
• Hand-sewing needle for securing the inner collar seams and closing the lining

Choose interfacing by testing it with your fabric, rather than automatically choosing the heaviest option. The front closure needs support, while the collar should stand comfortably without becoming stiff or bulky.

How Much Fabric Do You Need?

Use the amounts below as a starting point for planning your project. Confirm the layout with your actual pattern pieces, chosen size, and usable fabric width before buying or cutting. Length changes, a matching belt, and one-way cutting layouts can increase the amount you need.

Material	Fabric width	Planning amount
Main fabric	45 in / 114 cm	2.3 yd / 2.1 m
Main fabric	60 in / 152 cm	1.7 yd / 1.5 m
Lining	45 in / 114 cm	2.3 yd / 2.1 m
Lining	60 in / 152 cm	1.7 yd / 1.5 m
Fusible interfacing	20 in / 51 cm	0.8 yd / 0.7 m
Fusible interfacing	45 in / 114 cm	1/3 yd / 0.3 m

The yard and meter amounts are approximate shopping equivalents. Allow extra for shrinkage, matching checks or stripes, and directional fabrics such as corduroy. Lay out the optional belt and loop pieces too if you plan to use them.

Best Fabrics for a Funnel Neck Jacket

Choose a stable woven fabric without stretch. The fabric and interfacing work together to support the funnel neck, so test them as a pair before committing to the whole jacket.

Main fabric	What it brings to the jacket
Wool coating	A warm outer layer with a softer or firmer shape, depending on the weave and weight
Wool melton	A dense fabric that can give the collar a more defined shape
Cotton twill	A practical option for a lighter everyday jacket
Medium-weight cotton canvas	A firmer, casual finish
Non-stretch corduroy	Soft texture for fall; cut all pieces with the nap running the same way
Brushed cotton twill	A softer surface without the bulk of heavy coating
Non-stretch denim	A casual jacket with structure; test the thickest seams first

For a warm version, I would start with wool coating that your machine can comfortably handle. For a lighter jacket, cotton twill is a useful option. Very heavy fabric can become difficult at the collar corners, front edges, and belt loops, where several layers meet.

Choosing the Lining

A smooth woven jacket lining is particularly helpful if you plan to wear your jacket over sweaters: it lets the sleeves slide over the layer underneath more easily.

Cotton poplin, broadcloth, or lawn can work when you prefer a cotton lining, although cotton may catch against knitwear more than a slippery lining fabric. Quilting cotton gives the inside more body; lightweight cotton flannel adds warmth but also adds bulk.

Choose the outer fabric and lining together, with compatible care requirements. Prepare washable fabrics before cutting, and follow the supplier’s care advice for wool. Test your pressing temperature on scraps of both fabrics.

Prepare the Pattern and Check the Fit

Print the PDF at actual size, without “fit to page,” and check the printed scale against the pattern’s test measurement before assembling the pages. Follow the size chart and cutting notes supplied with the pattern.

This tutorial uses a 1 cm seam allowance, approximately 3/8 inch. Check the PDF to see whether that allowance is included before cutting; do not add it twice.

Try a test version if you are unsure about sizing or are using a fabric you would find difficult to replace. Check the fit over the kind of clothing you plan to wear underneath. You should be able to reach forward comfortably, bend your elbows, and close the front and collar without pulling.

Check sleeve and body length before cutting the lining. If you adjust the outer pieces, make the corresponding adjustments to the lining pieces while preserving any shaping or ease marked on the pattern.

Cutting the Jacket Pieces

Transfer the grainlines, notches, center-back marks, and closure markings before removing the paper pieces.

Pattern piece	Main fabric	Lining
Back	Cut 1 on the fold	Cut 1 on the fold
Front Button Front Flap	Cut the left and right front separately, following their individual markings	Cut the corresponding left and right lining fronts
Sleeves	Cut 2, one for each arm	Cut 2, one for each arm
Collar	Cut 1 on the fold	Cut 1, following the lining collar’s fold and cutting markings
Optional belt	Cut 1	—
Optional belt loops	Cut 3	—

Pay particular attention to the fronts. This design uses a wider overlapping extension for the buttonholes and a narrower extension for the buttons. Keep the left and right pieces labeled, and do not assume the front edges are identical mirrored shapes.

Keep the sleeve pairs and their front/back notches clearly marked too. With plain fabric, a small removable mark on the wrong side can save a lot of checking later.

How to Sew the Funnel Neck Jacket

1. Interface the Front Closure and Collar

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outer front closure areas where the buttons and buttonholes will sit. Interface the outer collar as well, following the pattern’s placement markings.

Test the interfacing on a scrap first. Follow its instructions for temperature, pressure, and steam, and let the fused pieces cool flat before moving them. Use a pressing cloth where appropriate, especially with wool.

Check that the fabric lies smooth and that the interfacing has bonded properly before continuing.

2. Sew the Shoulder Seams

Place the outer back right side up. Lay the two outer fronts on top, right sides together, and align the shoulder edges.

Pin and sew both shoulders with a straight stitch and a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at each end,

then press the seams open where your fabric allows.

3. Attach the Sleeves Flat

Open the jacket at the shoulders and lay it flat. Place one sleeve against its matching armhole, right sides together.

Match the sleeve-cap marking to the shoulder seam and align the front and back notches. Pin from the top of the sleeve toward the underarm edges, distributing any small amount of ease smoothly without making tucks.

Sew with the same seam allowance. Check for accidental folds before pressing, then repeat for the other sleeve.

4. Sew the Underarm and Side Seams

Fold the jacket right sides together. Match the sleeve underarm edges, the armhole seams, and the front and back side seams.

Pin a continuous line from the sleeve hem through the underarm and down to the jacket hem. Sew with a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch seam allowance, then repeat on the other side.

Press the seams. Before adding the lining, try on the outer jacket over your intended clothing layer and check the fit and sleeve length.

5. Attach the Funnel Neck Collar

Mark the center back of the collar and jacket neckline. With right sides together, pin the collar to the neckline, matching the center-back marks and any notches first. Continue toward the front edges, following the pattern markings.

Sew with a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch seam allowance. Check that you have not caught any small folds in the neckline.

Press carefully. Where needed, grade bulky seam allowances and clip curved allowances just enough to help the seam lie smoothly, keeping clear of the stitching.

6. Add the Optional Belt Loops

If you want a matching belt, attach the loops before enclosing the jacket with the lining. Try on the shell, mark your preferred belt height, and position one loop at the center back and one at each side. Check that all three sit at the same level.

For the simple loop finish, fold both long raw edges toward the wrong side so they meet at the center. Press, then zigzag down the middle to catch both edges. The folded side will face outward when the loop is attached.

If the loop width and fabric thickness allow, you can instead fold the long edges toward the center, fold the strip in half lengthwise again, and stitch close to the edge for a fully enclosed finish.

Turn each short end under by 1 cm / approximately 3/8 inch.

Sew the ends securely to the marked positions,

backstitching for strength. Leave enough room for the finished belt to pass through easily.

7. Sew the Lining

Assemble the lining in the same order as the outer jacket:

1. Sew the shoulder seams.
2. Attach the sleeves flat.
3. Sew the underarm and side seams.
4. Attach the lining collar.

Leave an opening about 20–25 cm / 8–10 inches long in one lining side seam. Backstitch at both ends of the opening. You will use this gap to turn the jacket and access the sleeve hems, so leave it open until the finishing steps are complete.

Press the lining using a temperature suitable for its fabric.

8. Join the Lining to the Outer Jacket

Place the outer jacket and lining right sides together, with each front matched to its corresponding lining front. Align the front edges, collar edges, and bottom hem according to the pattern markings.

Keep the sleeves free and out of the stitching path. Pin, then sew around the front, collar, and lower edges with a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch seam allowance. Leave the sleeve hems unsewn at this stage.

Trim the corners carefully and grade bulky allowances without cutting into the stitching.

Turn the jacket right side out through the lining opening. Gently shape the corners with a blunt tool and press the edges without stretching them.

Do not close the lining opening yet.

9. Join the Outer and Lining Sleeve Hems

Arrange the jacket as it will be worn, with each lining sleeve sitting inside the correct outer sleeve. Smooth both sleeves from shoulder to cuff so neither is twisted.

At one cuff, turn the seam allowances inward temporarily and align the underarm seams. Pinch or pin a small section together in its finished position. This gives you a reference for how the two sleeves should connect.

Reach through the lining opening, grasp that matched section, and bring the cuff edges out through the opening. Reposition the raw edges right sides together while keeping their correct relationship. The sleeve tubes should connect end to end at the cuff seam; do not flatten the opening and sew it shut.

Match the underarm seams, then pin around the entire cuff.

Check again for twisting before sewing the circular seam with a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch allowance.

Return the sleeve to its wearing position and put your hand through it to check the result.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

The lining should sit comfortably inside, without twisting or pulling the outer cuff upward.

10. Secure the Inner Collar Seams and Close the Lining

Before closing the turning opening, reach inside and align the outer and lining neckline seam allowances. Use a few small hand tacks to hold the allowances together, keeping the stitches out of the visible outer fabric and leaving the layers relaxed.

Try on the jacket once more. Check the cuffs, hem, collar, and lining while you move your arms. If anything pulls or twists, correct it while you still have access through the opening.

Fold the opening’s seam allowances inward and close it with a hand-sewn ladder stitch or a narrow machine edge stitch.

Press the front edges, collar, hem, and cuffs gently. For wool, use a pressing cloth and avoid flattening the fabric’s surface with excessive pressure.

11. Sew the Buttonholes and Attach the Buttons

Plan for approximately two buttons on the collar and six or seven down the front, adjusting the spacing to your chosen buttons and the pattern’s placement marks.

The buttonholes go on the wider overlapping front extension, and the buttons go on the narrower extension underneath.

Try on the jacket and pin the overlap in place. Check the collar’s comfort and make sure the front hangs smoothly. Mark the buttonholes, then test one on a scrap sandwich with the same fabric, interfacing, and lining layers as the finished closure.

Sew the buttonholes using your machine’s instructions and cut them open carefully. Align the fronts again and transfer the button positions through the finished buttonholes for an accurate match. Sew the buttons securely, leaving enough clearance for the thickness of the overlapping fabric.

12. Sew the Optional Belt

Fold the belt lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the long raw edge with a 1 cm / approximately 3/8-inch seam allowance, leaving both short ends open.

Press the seam,

turn the belt right side out,

and press it flat.

Tuck each short end inward by 1 cm / approximately 3/8 inch and stitch the openings closed.

Thread the belt through the three loops and tie it comfortably.

It should shape the jacket without pulling the buttoned front out of line.

A Few Checks for a Neat Finish

• If the collar feels too bulky: check the seam allowances and grade them where necessary before closing the lining. Test the fabric and interfacing combination before cutting a future version.
• If a sleeve lining twists: reopen the turning gap if needed and check that the lining connects to the correct sleeve with its underarm seam aligned.
• If the lining pulls at the hem or cuffs: check for mismatched pieces, uneven seam allowances, or a twist before trimming anything away.
• If the front puckers: check the overlap and button placement. The jacket should close without having to stretch one front across the other.
• If your machine struggles with buttonholes: make another test using the full layer thickness and adjust according to your machine’s manual before working on the jacket.

How to Style Your Handmade Funnel Neck Jacket

I like choosing a few outfit combinations before sewing an outer layer. It helps me decide on color, jacket length, and whether I want the optional belt. Here are three ways to build an outfit around this one.

An Easy Everyday Outfit

Wear the jacket with a lightweight top made from my free turtleneck sewing pattern and a pair of straight-leg pants. A thin knit keeps the two high necklines from feeling too bulky; you can leave the jacket’s collar open when you want more room.

Add flat boots or sneakers and a slouchy shoulder bag in a contrasting color. I like the idea of a simple neutral jacket with a softer, more playful bag.

Wide Legs and a Defined Waist

For a different silhouette, try my wide-leg culottes sewing tutorial with ankle boots and the jacket’s matching belt. Tie the belt loosely, then check the proportions in a mirror—the pants can stay roomy while the jacket has a little shape at the waist.

If you would like another bag project for this outfit, my hobo bag PDF sewing pattern on Etsy is a paid pattern option from my shop. Choose a bag fabric that works with both the jacket and the pants so you can wear the pieces in different combinations.

A Dress with a Soft Shoulder Bag

For a dress outfit, layer the jacket over my deep V-neck dress and add boots. A lightweight top underneath the dress can make the combination more useful as the weather cools.

Finish with a bag from my free pleated and ruched shoulder bag tutorial. The gathered version adds a soft detail beside the jacket’s structured collar; the pleated version offers another look from the same bag project.

More Jacket Patterns to Sew

If you enjoy making outer layers, my boxy jacket sewing pattern with a tie front is a lovely project for practicing bias-bound edges. It has a collarless, unlined construction, so the sewing process is different from this fully lined funnel neck jacket.

For a project with quilted texture, try my quilted jacket sewing pattern and video tutorial. It is another way to explore how fabric structure changes an outer layer.

You can also visit my earlier jacket sewing tutorial with a free PDF pattern to explore a jacket project with lining, pockets, and buttons. Choose the detail you would most like to practice next and build from there.

I hope you enjoy making a jacket that feels like your own, from the fabric you choose to the buttons you sew on at the end. Give yourself time for the collar and lining, press as you go, and check the fit before closing everything up. Those small pauses make the finishing steps much easier.

When yours is finished, try it with a few pieces already in your wardrobe. Wear it loose, add the belt, and see which version feels best for you. I’d love to hear what fabric you choose—and whether you make yours with or without the matching belt!

Funnel Neck Jacket PDF Sewing Pattern

Use the PDF pattern alongside the written instructions and video, and check the size chart, printing scale, and seam allowance notes before cutting your fabric.