Have you ever wondered what is the secret behind a well-made garment? Is it the fabric, the design, the stitching, or something else? Well, the answer is: all of the above. But there is also one more thing that can make or break your garment: the lining fabric. Lining fabrics are the hidden heroes of the fashion world. They are the materials that go inside your garments, from skirts and shorts to dresses, jackets and coats. It is often overlooked or ignored by sewists, but it can have a huge impact on the look, feel, and durability of your garment.They can be made of natural or synthetic fibers and come in different levels of transparency and patterns. But why do we need them and how do we choose them?
In this post, I will answer some of the most common questions about lining fabrics, such as:
- What is the purpose of lining fabric?
- How do I choose the right lining fabric for my project?
- What are the different types of lining fabric?
- How do I match lining fabric with outer fabric?
- How do I choose the color of lining fabric?
By the end of this post, you will have a better understanding of lining fabrics and how to use them in your sewing projects. Let’s get started!
What Is the Purpose of Lining Fabric?
Lining fabric is not just a decorative element. It has many practical benefits for your garment, such as:
- Making it less see-through
- Adding warmth and durability
- Making it soft and comfortable to wear
- Giving it a luxurious look
- Improving its structure and shape
- Helping it slide on and off easily
- Concealing seams, padding, interfacing, etc.
Not all garments need to be lined, though. For example, if your fabric is already thick, opaque, and smooth, you may not need an extra layer. But if your fabric is thin, sheer, or scratchy, lining fabric can make a big difference.
How Do I Choose the Right Lining Fabric?
Choosing the right lining fabric depends on several factors, such as:
- The type of your outer fabric
- The season and occasion of your garment
- The style and fit of your garment
- Your personal preference and budget
One of the most important things to consider is the stretch factor. If your outer fabric is stretchy, like jersey, tulle or stretch satin, you need a lining fabric that is also stretchy. Otherwise, your garment may lose its shape or feel too tight. If your outer fabric is not stretchy, like cotton or wool, you can use a non-stretch lining fabric.
Another thing to consider is the weight of your lining fabric. You don’t want it to be too heavy or too light for your outer fabric. For example, if you are making a winter coat with wool, you may want a warm and cozy lining fabric like flannel or fleece. But if you are making a summer dress with silk, you may want a light and airy lining fabric like cotton voile or silk habotai.
What Are the Different Types of Lining Fabric?
There are many types of lining fabric available in the market, each with its own characteristics and advantages. Here are some of the most popular ones:
Cupro
Cupro is a man-made fiber derived from the cotton linter. It is also known as Bemberg, which is the most common brand name. Cupro has a silky smooth texture and a subtle shine. It is durable, breathable, static-resistant, and more affordable than silk. Cupro is often used to line men’s suits, jackets, vests, and pants. It is an all-season fabric that keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter.
Silk Habotai
Silk habotai, also known as China silk or pongee, is a lightweight silk fabric with a soft finish and elegant sheen. It is made of 100% silk and has a semi-sheer appearance. Silk habotai is ideal for lining delicate garments, such as summer blouses, skirts, dresses, lightweight jackets, pants, and kimonos. It is not very durable, so it is not recommended for close-fitting garments. It works best in full or loose silhouettes.
Polyester
Polyester is a synthetic fiber that is widely used for lining fabrics. It is cheap, easy to care for, and resistant to wrinkles and stains. Polyester comes in various weights and finishes, from satin to crepe to chiffon. Polyester can be used to line almost any garment, but it may not be very breathable or comfortable for some people.
Rayon
Rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose. It has a soft and fluid drape and a natural feel. Rayon can mimic the qualities of different natural fibers, such as cotton, silk or linen. Rayon can be used to line various garments, but it may shrink or wrinkle easily.
Cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber that is breathable, absorbent, and comfortable to wear. Cotton comes in different weights and weaves, from voile to batiste to lawn. Cotton can be used to line casual garments that need some extra opacity or softness. Cotton may fade or shrink over time.
How to Match Lining Fabric with Outer Fabric?
Now that you know the purpose and types of lining fabric, you may wonder how to match them with your outer fabric. Well, there is no one-size-fits-all answer, but there are some general guidelines you can follow.
The main thing to consider is the weight of your fabrics. You want them to be balanced and compatible, not too heavy or too light for each other. For example, if you are making a summer dress with a flimsy silk chiffon, you don’t want to line it with a thick wool flannel. That would be like wearing a sweater under a swimsuit. Not very comfortable or flattering, right?
The rule of thumb is: the lighter your outer fabric is, the lighter your lining fabric should be. And vice versa, the heavier your outer fabric is, the heavier your lining fabric can be. Here are some examples of good matches:
Summer clothes like flimsy dresses, skirts, pants: choose cotton lining for cotton garments (lawn, voile, or batiste) and silk lining for silk ones (habotai, chiffon, satin, crepe de chine). Viscose and rayon linings are also great options. They are light, breathable and soft.
Evening gowns, skirts, velvet and brocade jackets: go with china silk, silk satin, silk crepe or taffeta. They are smooth, shiny and luxurious.
Suit jackets and trousers: try viscose, cupro or bemberg linings. They are durable, breathable and static-resistant. Silk is also a nice choice if you want to splurge.
Knit garments: opt for stretch linings, such as fine jersey or tricot. They are elastic and flexible.
Fall and winter coats: for extra warmth, consider fleece, fake fur, Sherpa or quilted lining. They are cozy and insulating. For decorative purposes, try silk satin or acetate lining. They are glossy and elegant.
How to Choose the Color of Lining Fabric?
Another thing to consider is the color of your lining fabric. You may think that nobody will see it anyway, so why bother? Well, think again. The color of your lining fabric can affect the appearance of your outer fabric, especially if it is sheer or light-colored. It can also add some personality and fun to your garment.
There are no strict rules you should follow when it comes to choosing the color of your lining fabric. Feel free to experiment and try different options until you find the one that suits you best. You may go with similar or complementary colors, e.g. a light blue or golden lining for a navy jacket. Or you may go with contrasting colors to create some drama, e.g. a red or purple lining for a black coat. For a playful mood, try printed linings with stripes, dots, florals or animal prints. The only recommendation would be to combine patterned linings with solid outer fabrics, otherwise it would be quite difficult to get it right.
Add Lining to Your Jacket in 2 Videos: A Simple and Detailed Guide
Learn how to add lining to any jacket in this easy step-by-step tutorial. Watch these 2 videos and master jacket lining in no time. You can use this effective method to coats as well.
How to sew a jacket with lining
How to sew ladies blazer with lining
So, there you have it: everything you need to know about lining fabrics and how to choose the best one for your garment. As you can see, lining fabric is not just a hidden layer inside your clothing. It can make a huge difference in the look, feel, and durability of your garment. It can also add some fun and flair to your sewing projects.
Thank you for reading my blog post. I hope you enjoyed it and learned something new. If you did, please share it with your friends and family who might be interested in lining fabrics too. And if you haven’t already, subscribe to my newsletter to get more tips and tricks on sewing and fashion.
Happy sewing! 😊
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