In this post, you will learn how to self draft pattern for bias cut skirt.
Do you love the look of bias skirts? These skirts are cut on the diagonal grain of the fabric, creating a beautiful drape and a flattering fit. Bias skirts are a staple in high fashion, but you can also make your own at home with some basic sewing skills. In this blog post, you’ll learn everything you need to know about bias skirts, including:
- What is a bias skirt and why is it so stylish?
- How to draft a simple bias skirt pattern from scratch
- How to add a slit or a mermaid tail to your bias skirt for extra flair
- How to sew and finish your bias skirt like a pro
Ready to get started? Let’s dive in!
What is a Bias Skirt and Why is it So Stylish?
A bias skirt is a skirt that is cut on the bias, which is the diagonal direction of the fabric. This means that the fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric) and the crosswise grain (the direction that runs perpendicular to the selvage).
Cutting fabric on the bias has several advantages for making skirts:
- It creates a soft and fluid drape that hugs the body and moves gracefully
- It enhances the natural curves of the wearer and creates a slimming effect
- It allows the fabric to stretch slightly, making the skirt more comfortable and adaptable to different body shapes
- It reduces the need for darts or seams, simplifying the pattern and the sewing process
Bias skirts are popular in haute couture and vintage fashion, as they evoke a sense of elegance and sophistication. They can be made from various fabrics, such as silk, satin, chiffon, or wool, depending on the desired look and feel. Bias skirts can also be styled in different ways, from casual to formal, depending on the length, color, and accessories.
What You Need?
To draft your own bias skirt pattern, you will need the following tools:
- A large piece of paper, such as tracing paper, to draw your pattern on.
- A pencil, preferably with a fine point and a good eraser, to sketch and adjust your pattern lines.
- Notebook
- A French curve ruler. Grab my french curved rulers for free here.
- L ruler
- A measuring tape, to take your body measurements and check the length and width of your pattern pieces.
- A pair of scissors, to cut out your pattern pieces and your fabric. Check out my detailed post and learn what scissors are the best for your project.
These are the basic tools and materials you will need to draft a bias skirt.
What Measurements to Take and How
To draft your own bias skirt pattern, you will need the following measurements:
Waist circumference: Measure your waist at its narrowest part, usually above your navel. This is the natural waist and the top edge of your skirt.
Hip circumference: Measure your hips at their widest part, usually around the buttocks. This is the widest part of your skirt and determines how much fabric you need.
Waist to hip length: Measure the distance from your natural waist to your hip level. This is the length of the dart and the side seam of your skirt.
Skirt length: Measure the distance from your natural waist to the desired hemline of your skirt. This is the total length of your skirt and depends on your preference and style.
You can use a measuring tape or a cord to take these measurements and write them down.
Check out my detailed post on how to measure yourself for drafting.
How to Draft a Simple Bias Skirt Pattern from Scratch
Making a bias skirt pattern is easy and requires only a few measurements and tools. Here’s how to do it:
- Prepare your drafting paper: Lay it flat and fold it diagonally, matching the selvage with the cut edge. Press the fold to create a crease.
- Measure and mark: Measure your waist and the length of the skirt you want. Divide your waist measurement by 4 and add 1 inch for seam allowance. Mark this measurement on the folded edge of the fabric, starting from the corner. Then, measure the length of the skirt from the waist mark and mark it on the fabric. Draw a line connecting the two marks, forming a right triangle. This is your skirt pattern.
- Cut out the paper: Cut along the marked line. You should have two identical pieces , each forming a quarter of a circle.
How to Add a Slit or a Mermaid Tail to Your Bias Skirt for Extra Flair
If you want to spice up your bias skirt, you can add a slit or a mermaid tail to it. Here’s how to do it:
To add a slit: Decide where you want the slit to be: on the side, the front, or the back. Modify your pattern by extending the length of the skirt by a few inches and adding a notch where you want the slit to start. Cut and sew the skirt as usual, but leave the slit area unsewn. Finish the raw edges of the slit with a narrow hem or a bias binding. Stitch along the slit to reinforce it and prevent it from stretching or fraying.
To add a mermaid tail: Take your measurements for the waist, the hips, and the length from the waist to the floor. Draw a fitted skirt pattern that reaches the knee, then flare out the pattern from the knee to the hem, creating a mermaid tail shape. Cut and sew the skirt as usual, but make sure you have enough fabric for the flare. Hem the bottom edge of the skirt with a wide hem or a horsehair braid to give it more volume and shape.
Beginner Friendly Video Tutorial on Self Drafting Bias Skirt
Watch my video tutorial on how to self draft bias cut skirt. You will learn the step-by-step process with clear and detailed instructions. Click on the link below to access the video on my youtube channel.
[Watch the video here]
Pattern Hacking
How to Sew and Finish Your Bias Skirt Like a Pro
Sewing a bias skirt is not difficult, but it does require some extra care and attention. Here are some tips to help you sew and finish your bias skirt like a pro:
- Use a sharp rotary cutter and a cutting mat to cut your fabric on the bias. This will ensure a smooth and accurate cut and prevent the fabric from shifting or stretching.
- Use a lot of pins or basting stitches to hold your fabric pieces together before sewing. Bias fabric tends to slip and slide, so you want to keep it in place as much as possible.
- Use a ballpoint or a stretch needle and a zigzag or a stretch stitch to sew your bias fabric. This will prevent the fabric from puckering or breaking.
- Use a walking foot or a roller foot to feed your fabric evenly through the machine. This will prevent the fabric from stretching or distorting as you sew.
- Use a pressing cloth and a low to medium heat setting to press your seams and hems. Avoid stretching or pulling the fabric as you press, as this can cause it to lose its shape and drape.
- Let your skirt hang for a day or two before hemming it. Bias fabric tends to “grow” and sag over time, so you want to let it settle and adjust before you hem it. You may need to trim the hem to make it even.
Bias skirts are a fun and rewarding sewing project that can add some flair and elegance to your wardrobe. Whether you choose a simple bias cut, a slit, or a mermaid tail, you’ll end up with a skirt that’s comfortable, chic, and unique. So grab your fabric and your sewing machine, and let’s get sewing!
In this post, you have learned how to make bias cut skirt pattern.
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