How to Create and Customize a Raglan Top or Dress Pattern [Beginner-Friendly]

In this post , you will learn how to self draft and hack sewing pattern for raglan top or dress.

A raglan top or dress is a garment that has sleeves that extend to the neckline, creating a diagonal seam from the underarm to the collarbone. They are flattering and comfortable styles that suit any body type.

In this post, you will learn how to create a raglan top or dress pattern from scratch. You will also learn how to hack the pattern to create different variations, such as a blouse with ties, a boxy blouse, a puff sleeve, or a balloon sleeve.

What You Need to Make a Raglan Top or Dress Pattern

To make a raglan top or dress pattern, you need to measure the following:

Bust

Waist

Hips

Desired garment length

Arm length

Upper arm circumference

Wrist circumference

Check out my detailed post on how to measure yourself for self pattern drafting.

You will also need some basic sewing tools, such as:

• Pencil
• Ruler , grab my french curved rulers for free here
• Scissors , choose best one for your project here
• Tape
• Pins
• Fabric
• Sewing machine ,choose he best one for you here
• Drafting paper
• Tracing paper

How to Measure the Armhole Length for a Raglan Pattern

The armhole length is the distance from the base of your neck to the underarm. There are three methods to measure it:

Method 1:

Measure from the base of your neck to under your armpit just above your bust point.

Method 2:

Measure from the base of the neck to the point (bust center) and subtract 4 cm for the front pattern and 2 cm for the back pattern.

Method 3:

The simplest method, but it doesn’t work with large breasts. Divide your 1/4 bust measurement by 2 and subtract 2 cm.

For example, if your 1/4 bust measurement is 24 cm, then your armhole length is:

• Method 1: 24 cm – 4 cm = 20 cm (front), 24 cm – 2 cm = 22 cm (back)| 9.44 in-1.57in =7.87 in (front) , 9.44 in – 0.787 in = 8.66 in ( back)
• Method 2: 24 cm / 2 – 2 cm = 10 cm (front and back) |
• Method 3: 24 cm / 2 – 2 cm = 10 cm (front and back)

Choose the method that works best for you and write down your armhole length measurements.

How to Draft a Raglan Top or Dress Pattern

Now that you have your measurements, you can start drafting your raglan top or dress pattern. Follow these steps:

1. Draw a rectangle that is as wide as your 1/4 bust measurement plus 2 cm for seam allowance, and as long as your desired garment length plus 2 cm for hem allowance. This is your front pattern piece.
2. Mark the center of the rectangle and draw a vertical line. This is your fold line.
3. Mark the neckline point on the fold line, 6 cm down from the top edge.
4. Mark the shoulder point on the top edge, 6 cm away from the fold line.
5. Mark the armhole point on the side edge, using your armhole length measurement from method 1 or 2.
6. Draw a curved line from the neckline point to the shoulder point. This is your front neckline.
7. Draw a diagonal line from the shoulder point to the armhole point. This is your front raglan seam.
8. Draw a curved line from the armhole point to the bottom edge. This is your front side seam.
9. Cut out your front pattern piece along the lines. Label it as “front” and add notches to the raglan seam and the side seam.
10. Repeat steps 1 to 9 to create your back pattern piece, using your back armhole length measurement from method 1 or 2. The only difference is that the back neckline is 2 cm lower than the front neckline. Label it as “back” and add notches to the raglan seam and the side seam.

How to Draft a Raglan Sleeve Pattern

To draft a raglan sleeve pattern, you need to connect the front and back pattern pieces together on the fold line, then redraw the raglan seam and the sleeve shape. Follow these steps:

• Tape the front and back pattern pieces together along the fold line, matching the notches and the armhole points.
• Draw a new raglan seam line that smooths out the angle between the front and back raglan seams. You can use a French curve or a flexible ruler to help you.
• Draw a horizontal line from the armhole point to the edge of the paper. This is your sleeve cap line.
• Mark the sleeve length point on the sleeve cap line, using your arm length measurement plus 2 cm for hem allowance.
• Draw a vertical line from the sleeve length point to the bottom edge of the paper. This is your sleeve hem line.
• Mark the wrist point on the sleeve hem line, using your wrist circumference measurement plus 2 cm for ease and seam allowance.
• Draw a curved line from the armhole point to the wrist point. This is your sleeve under seam.

• Cut out your sleeve pattern piece along the lines. Label it as “sleeve” and add notches to the raglan seam and the under seam.

Step by Step Video Tutorial

If you prefer to watch a video tutorial on how to self draft and hack sewing pattern for raglan dress or top , you can find it on my YouTube channel.

Super easy video tutorial on how to self draft and hack sewing pattern for raglan dress and top.

How to Hack the Pattern to Create Different Variations

You can use the basic raglan top or dress pattern to create different variations, such as a blouse with ties, a boxy blouse, a puff sleeve, or a balloon sleeve. Here are some ideas on how to hack the pattern:

• Blouse with ties or elastic at the waist: Add some width to the front and back pattern pieces at the waist level, then add some ties or a casing for an elastic band at the waistline.

• Boxy blouse, loose without any ties or elastic bands: Add some width and length to the front and back pattern pieces, then add a button placket and pleats at the waist to the front of the blouse. You can also add a collar or a pocket for some extra details.

How to Hack a Pattern into a Dress

Extend the pattern from the neckline to the length you want  You can also make a pattern for an A-line dress this way:

How to Hack Sleeve Pattern

As first redraw sleeve pattern :

Puff sleeve:

Cut the sleeve pattern piece in half, stopping just before you reach the top.

Place the pattern on a new piece of paper and fan out the pieces to the width you want. Glue, tape, or pin the pieces down and round the hem.

You can either retrace the new shape onto a fresh piece of paper or cut it out directly, adding 1 cm seam allowance around the edges.

Finish the bottom (hem line) of a sleeve in an aesthetic way using facing or create a tunnel for an elastic band or string in the rounded bottom

To sew the puff sleeve, gather the sleeve cap and the sleeve hem, then attach them to the bodice and the cuff as usual.

Balloon sleeve:

Make a pattern for a puff sleeve as in the previous hack, then shorten the base sleeve at the bottom by 6-8 cm (the sleeve lining must be shorter than the outer sleeve). To sew the balloon sleeve, sew the outer sleeve and the lining sleeve separately, then insert the lining into the outer sleeve, right sides together. Stitch the sleeve hem, then turn the sleeve right side out and press. Attach the sleeve to the bodice as usual.

Now you know how to draft, make, and hack patterns for a raglan top or dress. You can use this skill to create your own unique and customized garments that fit your style and personality. You can also experiment with different fabrics, colors, prints, and embellishments to make your raglan creations stand out.

Clothes you Can Sew Using Self Draft Sewing Pattern for Reglan Top or Dress

Sew baby doll raglan dress

How to sew boho raglan dress

How to sew crop or long raglan top and blouse 

Sewing Pattern Storage Ideas

Check out my ideas on how to store your self-drafted sewing patterns in different types of clear folders, such as ones with pockets, fasteners, or dividers. These folders are great for keeping your patterns neat, visible, and protected from dust and moisture. You can also label them with the pattern name, number, size, and fabric requirements for easy reference. 

If you enjoyed this post and found it helpful, please share it with your friends and fellow sewers. I would love to see your raglan projects and hear your feedback. You can also subscribe to my blog to get more sewing tips and tutorials delivered to your inbox.

In this post, you have learned how to self draft and hack sewing pattern for raglan dress or top.

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