Some sewing projects start because I want to try a new technique. This one started because I wanted to make a pair of men’s summer shorts that looked relaxed, but still like real clothes you would actually wear outside the house.
Nothing complicated. Nothing overly tailored.
Just comfortable men’s linen shorts with a good shape, proper pockets, an elastic waistband and a drawstring.
I made this pair from a soft beige linen blend with a subtle woven texture. The fabric has enough body to hold the pockets and waistband nicely, but it is still light and relaxed enough for warm weather.
For the photos, I paired the finished shorts with a simple charcoal T-shirt and white sneakers.
That was it.
And somehow, that very simple combination made me like the shorts even more.
They do not need complicated styling. The linen texture, relaxed fit and drawstring already give them enough character.
This project is also part of something I have been building almost without realizing it.
I already have several men’s sewing projects on Sparrow Refashion, and they are slowly starting to work together as an actual handmade wardrobe rather than a collection of unrelated tutorials. If you are new to sewing menswear, my guide to sewing men’s clothes with free patterns is a good place to see how the different pieces fit together.
These linen shorts are the summer piece that collection was missing.
I also created a free men’s linen shorts sewing pattern in eight sizes. The PDF is available for my blog subscribers, and subscribing is free.
You will find the pattern download at the very end of this post.
So, let’s sew some linen shorts.
Watch the Men’s Linen Shorts Video Tutorial
If you prefer seeing the construction happen instead of trying to imagine what a pocket bag is supposed to be doing inside a pair of shorts, I also filmed the whole process.
In the video, I show you how I sew the front and back, add the side-seam pockets, join the legs, make the separate waistband, insert the elastic and drawstring, and finish the hems.
I recommend keeping this written tutorial open while you watch.
Use the video when you want to see exactly how something should look under the sewing machine, then come back here whenever you need an exact measurement, seam allowance or sewing order.
There is no zipper fly, fitted waistband or complicated closure.
The elastic does the practical work, while the optional drawstring gives the front a more finished casual look.
That makes this a really nice introduction to sewing men’s bottoms if trousers still feel a little intimidating.
Why Linen Works So Well for Men’s Shorts
Linen makes sense for summer shorts for the obvious reason: it feels wonderful in warm weather.
But I also like it for this particular shape.
These shorts are not meant to look sharply tailored. They have a relaxed leg and easy waistband, so the natural texture of linen suits them.
A little wrinkling is not a problem here.
Actually, I think perfectly pressed linen sometimes looks stranger than slightly rumpled linen. The softness and wrinkles are part of what make it look good.
A linen blend can also be easier to work with than very loose pure linen, especially if this is your first pair.
The Linen Blend I Used for My Pair
For the shorts in these photos, I used a soft beige linen-blend woven fabric with a tiny woven texture.
It has enough structure to keep the pocket openings and waistband looking neat, but the legs still fall naturally instead of standing away from the body.
I especially like this sort of fabric for simple men’s clothes because the texture does some of the styling for you.
The pattern itself is uncomplicated, so the linen keeps it from looking boring.
I paired this pair with charcoal gray, but natural linen like this would also look great with black, olive, navy, brown, cream or muted dark green.
What Weight Linen Is Best for Men’s Shorts?
For this pattern, look for a light- to medium-weight apparel linen or linen blend.
You want enough structure to support the waistband and pockets without turning the shorts into something stiff.
| Linen Weight | How It Behaves | For These Shorts |
|---|---|---|
| Very lightweight linen | Airy and sometimes sheer | Usually too light |
| Lightweight apparel linen | Soft and breathable | Good for very hot weather |
| Medium-weight linen | More body without excessive stiffness | My favorite option |
| Heavy linen or canvas | Firm and bulky | Usually too heavy |
A linen-cotton blend is especially nice for beginners because it is normally a little more stable while cutting and sewing.
A linen-viscose blend will give you a softer, more fluid version.
Pure linen works beautifully too.
If your fabric feels bulky when folded into several layers, consider making the pocket bags from lightweight cotton instead of the main linen.
That keeps the hip area flatter and reduces bulk around the waistband.
Prewash Your Linen Before Cutting
Please prewash the fabric before cutting your pattern pieces.
Linen can shrink, and discovering that after you have finished the waistband, pockets and hems is a particularly rude ending to a sewing project.
Wash and dry the fabric in the same way you plan to care for the finished shorts.
Then press it before cutting.
Prewashing also allows linen to develop its real texture. What looks very smooth on the bolt can look much softer after the first wash.
That is the fabric you actually want to fit the pattern to.
Before You Cut Your Linen
There are a few quick things worth checking before putting the pattern on the fabric.
Make sure the linen has been prewashed and dried. Press it without stretching it, check that the grain is straight and decide whether the fabric has an obvious direction.
Also hold it against the light.
Pale linen can be more transparent than it appears when several layers are folded together on the fabric roll.
If your fabric has a very subtle right and wrong side, mark the wrong side lightly with tailor’s chalk before you begin.
Linen blends can sometimes look almost identical on both sides, and trying to remember which side you chose halfway through sewing is not one of my favorite sewing games.
How Much Linen Do You Need?
The exact amount depends on the selected size, fabric width, desired shorts length and whether your fabric has a directional weave or design.
These estimates include the front and back pieces, separate waistband and four optional pocket pieces.
| Fabric Width | Smaller Pattern Sizes | Largest Pattern Sizes |
|---|---|---|
| 140–150 cm | 55–60 in | 1.5 m | 1.65 yd | 2 m | 2.2 yd |
| 110–115 cm | 43–45 in | 2.1 m | 2.3 yd | 2.8 m | 3.1 yd |
For standard 140–150 cm | 55–60 in wide linen, buying 2 m | 2.2 yd is the safest general amount if you want enough room for the full pair and pockets.
Add another 20–30 cm | 8–12 in if you want to lengthen the legs, need to match a directional design or simply prefer having a little insurance fabric.
If you are making the pocket bags from lightweight cotton, you may be able to reduce the amount of main linen slightly.
Always check the pattern layout before buying if you are working with a limited amount of fabric.
What You Need
You do not need a giant sewing-room inventory for this one.
| Material | What You Need |
|---|---|
| Linen or linen blend | Use the fabric guide above |
| Free PDF pattern | 8 sizes |
| Pocket fabric | Main fabric or lightweight cotton |
| Flat elastic | 3 cm | 1.2 in wide |
| Drawstring or cotton cord | Optional |
| Eyelets | 2, optional |
| Lightweight interfacing | Small scraps behind the eyelets |
| Polyester thread | Matching color |
| Universal needle | 80/12 or 90/14 depending on fabric weight |
Plus your normal sewing tools: sewing machine, fabric scissors or rotary cutter, pins or clips, measuring tape, fabric marker and iron.
You do not need a serger for these shorts.
Linen does tend to fray, so I recommend finishing the raw seam allowances as you sew. A simple zigzag or overcast stitch is completely fine. If you want something cleaner, or you are not sure which finish suits your particular linen, my guide to finishing raw edges without a serger shows four useful methods and explains where each one works best.
I would not overcomplicate the seams here. The focus of this project is the shorts, not convincing your regular sewing machine that it secretly wants to become an overlocker.
Sewing Machine Settings for Linen
These are starting points rather than strict rules because linen blends can behave very differently depending on their fiber content and weight.
| Sewing Job | Stitch | Suggested Setting |
|---|---|---|
| Main seams | Straight stitch | 2.5 mm |
| Visible topstitching | Straight stitch | 3 mm |
| Finishing raw edges | Zigzag | 3–4 mm width, 1.5–2 mm length |
| Joining elastic | Medium zigzag | 3–4 mm width |
| Buttonholes | Automatic or four-step | Match opening to drawstring |
Always test everything on a folded scrap first.
Test your thread tension.
Test the zigzag.
And definitely test your eyelets or buttonholes.
The finished waistband is a terrible place to discover that your eyelet tool has decided not to cooperate.
Free Men’s Linen Shorts Pattern in 8 Sizes
I created this men’s linen shorts PDF pattern in eight sizes.
Use the measurement chart included with the pattern and choose the size according to the wearer’s fullest hip and seat measurement.
The waist is adjustable with elastic, so the hip measurement matters more when selecting the pattern size.
The shorts still need enough room to pass over the fullest part of the hips and seat comfortably.
If the wearer falls between two sizes, I recommend using the larger size.
You can shorten the waistband elastic later, but you cannot make a pair of already-cut linen shorts magically wider at the seat without introducing yourself to seam-ripper diplomacy.
The actual PDF download is at the end of this post for subscribers.
Subscribing is free.
Print the Pattern Correctly
Print the PDF at:
100% or Actual Size
Do not select:
Fit to Page
or
Shrink to Fit
Print the test page first and measure the test square before printing everything else.
If this is your first time using one of my downloadable patterns, I have a separate step-by-step guide to printing and assembling my free PDF sewing patterns that explains the printer settings and assembly process in more detail.
And if standard sizes are not what you need, you do not have to abandon the shorts entirely. My tutorial for drafting a simple shorts pattern in any size starts with the wearer’s own hip circumference and crotch depth, so you can build the basic shape from measurements instead.
So you can choose your preferred camp:
print it and start sewing
or
give me a ruler and let me draft the thing myself.
Both are welcome here.
Pattern Pieces to Cut
Cut the following pieces from your linen:
| Pattern Piece | Quantity | Cutting Direction |
|---|---|---|
| Front shorts | 2 | Mirrored pair |
| Back shorts | 2 | Mirrored pair |
| Waistband | 1 | On fold |
| Pockets | 4 | Two mirrored pairs |
Transfer all pattern markings before removing the paper.
Pay particular attention to:
- center front;
- center back;
- pocket placement;
- waistband center front;
- grainline;
- hem line;
- matching notches.
Keep the front and back pieces in separate piles after cutting.
The crotch curves can look suspiciously similar while lying flat on a table.
They are not interchangeable.
Before You Start Sewing
Use a 1 cm | 3/8 in seam allowance throughout this tutorial unless I tell you otherwise.
Press as you sew.
Linen responds beautifully to pressing, and it makes a particularly noticeable difference around the pockets and waistband.
If your linen is loosely woven, handle the waist and pocket openings gently so you do not stretch them out of shape before they are stabilized.
Now we can finally sew.
How to Sew Men’s Linen Shorts Step by Step
1. Sew the Center-Back Crotch Seam
Place the two back pieces right sides together.
Match the center-back crotch curve and pin from the waist down to the end of the curve.
Sew 1 cm | 3/8 in from the raw edge.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Finish the raw seam allowances with your preferred method and press the seam toward one side.
For lightweight or loosely woven linen, I like to add a second line of straight stitching just inside the seam allowance beside the first one.
The crotch takes quite a lot of stress when the shorts are worn, so this little bit of reinforcement is worth the thirty seconds.
2. Sew the Center-Front Crotch Seam
Place the two front pieces right sides together.
Match the center-front crotch curve and pin.
Sew 1 cm | 3/8 in from the raw edge.
Backstitch at both ends.
Finish the seam allowances and press them toward one side.
You should now have one complete front section and one complete back section.
3. Attach the Side-Seam Pockets
Lay the front section flat with the right side facing up.
Position one pocket piece along each side edge, right sides together, matching the pocket placement marks.
If your linen is loosely woven or very soft, you can staystitch the pocket opening just inside the seam allowance before handling it too much.
That helps prevent the opening from stretching.
Pin and sew each pocket piece to the front using a 1 cm | 3/8 in seam allowance.
Repeat with the back section and the remaining two pocket pieces.
Finish the seam allowances and press all four pocket pieces away from the shorts.
For a flatter pocket opening, understitch the seam allowance to the pocket approximately 2–3 mm | 1/8 in from the seam.
This helps keep the pocket fabric from rolling toward the outside.
If pockets are the point where four nearly identical pieces of fabric suddenly make a very simple project feel suspiciously complicated, I have a separate side-seam pocket tutorial with a clean no-overlocker finish where you can see that construction much more slowly.
Then come back here and continue with the shorts.
4. Sew the Side Seams and Pocket Bags
Place the front and back sections right sides together.
Match the waist, side seams, pocket pieces and hems.
Each front pocket piece should sit directly over its matching back pocket piece.
Pin one complete side.
Start at the waist and sew down the side seam.
Continue around the curved pocket bag, return to the side seam below the pocket opening and continue all the way to the hem.
Repeat on the opposite side.
Sew slowly where the straight side seam transitions into the pocket curve.
Stop with the needle down whenever you need to reposition the fabric.
Reinforce the top and bottom of each pocket opening with a short second line of stitching.
Those two points take the most strain whenever the pockets are actually used.
Finish the seam allowances and press the pocket bags toward the front.
5. Sew the Inseams
Keep the shorts wrong side out.
Match the front and back along the first inner leg.
Pin from the hem toward the crotch.
Sew with a straight stitch 1 cm | 3/8 in from the raw edge.
Repeat on the second leg.
At the center crotch, carefully match the front and back crotch seams so the intersection sits neatly without twisting.
Finish the raw seam allowances and press them toward the back.
Now they finally look like shorts.
This is also a good moment to do a quick fitting before we commit ourselves to the waistband.
Check the hip and seat room, thigh width and rise.
If something feels wrong here, fix it now rather than hoping elastic possesses problem-solving skills.
6. Secure the Pocket Tops to the Waist
Pull both pocket bags toward the front and smooth them flat.
Match the upper edge of each pocket with the shorts waistline.
Pin or clip it in place.
Baste through the pocket and waist approximately 5 mm | 3/16 in from the raw edge.
This stitching sits inside the final seam allowance.
Its only job is preventing the pockets from folding, shifting or attempting an escape while we attach the waistband.
7. Prepare the Drawstring Openings
The drawstring is optional.
You can make these shorts with a simple elastic waistband, but I really like the drawstring on this linen version.
It gives the front a more finished casual look without adding a complicated closure.
Find the center-front mark on the waistband.
On the section that will become the outside of the finished waistband, mark two openings evenly on either side of center front.
Position them approximately 1.5–2 cm | 5/8–3/4 in above the future waist seam.
Fuse a small square of lightweight interfacing behind each mark.
Do not skip the interfacing when using eyelets. Linen can pull apart around unsupported metal hardware.
Now choose one finish.
You can install two small eyelets, or sew two buttonholes slightly wider than your drawstring.
Test your chosen method on a reinforced linen scrap first.
If you are not adding a drawstring, simply skip this step.
8. Sew the Waistband Into a Loop
Fold the waistband so the short ends are right sides together.
Match and pin the short edges.
Sew with a straight stitch 1 cm | 3/8 in from the raw edge.
Press the seam allowances open.
This seam becomes the center back of the waistband.
Mark:
- center front;
- center back;
- left side;
- right side.
Mark the same four quarter points around the shorts waist.
These marks help distribute the waistband evenly and keep the drawstring openings exactly where they belong.
At the front.
Preferably.
9. Attach the Waistband to the Shorts
Turn the shorts right side out.
Place the waistband around the waist right sides together.
Match the center front, center back and both side marks.
Check that the optional eyelets or buttonholes are positioned at the front and will appear on the outside of the finished waistband.
Pin around the entire waist.
Sew 1 cm | 3/8 in from the raw edges.
Finish the seam allowances if needed and press them upward into the waistband.
If your waist edge seems to have stretched slightly while you were working with the linen, compare it with the waistband rather than stretching the waistband to match.
A little steam can often help the linen ease gently back into shape.
10. Form the Elastic Casing
Along the remaining raw waistband edge, fold 1 cm | 3/8 in toward the wrong side and press.
Fold the waistband in half toward the inside of the shorts.
The pressed inner edge should cover the original waistband attachment seam.
Pin or clip around the complete waist.
Check from both the inside and outside to make sure the waistband remains even.
Stitch close to the inner folded edge.
Leave approximately 5 cm | 2 in open at the center back.
We will use that opening to insert the elastic.
11. Measure and Insert the Elastic
Start with elastic approximately the same length as the wearer’s waist measurement.
Wrap it around the body where the finished waistband will sit.
Adjust it until it feels secure without digging in.
Then add approximately 2.5 cm | 1 in for overlapping the ends.
I prefer testing the actual elastic around the body instead of automatically subtracting one fixed number.
Some elastic is very firm.
Some stretches if you look at it suspiciously.
Attach a safety pin or elastic threader to one end and feed the elastic through the casing.
Pin the other end near the opening so it cannot disappear inside.
Keep checking that the elastic remains flat and does not twist.
Overlap the ends by approximately 2.5 cm | 1 in.
Join them securely with several rows of zigzag stitching or sew a reinforced rectangle through the overlap.
Stretch the waistband gently so the joined section slips inside.
Close the 5 cm | 2 in opening with a straight stitch.
12. Stop the Elastic From Twisting
Distribute the gathers evenly around the waistband.
If you are not adding a drawstring, you can stretch the waistband until the fabric lies flat and sew two or three horizontal rows through the casing and elastic.
Use approximately a 3 mm | 0.12 in straight stitch.
If you are adding a drawstring, my favorite method is easier.
Sew short vertical lines through the waistband and elastic at:
- the left side seam;
- the right side seam;
- center back.
This prevents the elastic from rotating inside the casing while leaving a clear path for the cord.
It is simple and considerably less exciting than accidentally sewing straight through your drawstring.
13. Insert the Drawstring
Thread the cord through one front opening.
Feed it around the complete waistband and bring it back out through the second opening.
A useful starting length is:
waist circumference + approximately 45 cm | 18 in
Try the shorts on before trimming the final length.
Tie a knot at each end or finish the cord with small fabric tabs.
The elastic should hold the shorts comfortably by itself.
The drawstring adds adjustability and style, but it should not be doing all the work.
14. Hem the Linen Shorts
Try the shorts on before sewing the final hems.
Check the length while standing naturally.
Trim both legs evenly if needed.
Fold the raw hem edge 1 cm | 3/8 in toward the wrong side and press.
Fold it again by 2 cm | 3/4 in.
Pin around both legs.
Topstitch close to the inner folded edge using approximately a 3 mm | 0.12 in straight stitch.
Give both hems a final press.
And your men’s linen shorts are finished.
What I Learned Sewing These Shorts in Linen
There are a few small things I would absolutely repeat when sewing the next pair.
Prewash the Linen
I know I have already said it.
I am saying it again because this is the boring step that can save the entire project.
Reinforce the Drawstring Openings
A tiny scrap of interfacing behind each eyelet makes a big difference.
You are asking a small piece of woven fabric to support metal hardware that will be pulled every time the shorts are tied.
Give it some help.
Be Gentle With the Pocket Openings
Soft linen can relax while you handle it.
Avoid pulling on the opening while sewing and pressing.
If the weave is loose, staystitch before attaching the pocket.
Use Lighter Pocket Fabric When Necessary
If your linen becomes bulky when layered, make the pocket bags from lightweight cotton.
Nobody can see them from the outside, and the waistband will thank you.
Do Not Try to Iron Every Wrinkle Out of Linen
- Press your seams carefully.
- Press the waistband.
- Press the hems.
But once the shorts are finished, let the fabric still behave like linen.
That slight lived-in texture is part of the point.
How to Get a Better Fit
These shorts have a relaxed fit, but relaxed does not mean shapeless.
A few simple adjustments can make a big difference.
| Fit Problem | What to Check | Simple Adjustment |
|---|---|---|
| Waist feels loose | Elastic length | Shorten the elastic |
| Waist feels tight | Elastic tension | Replace with longer elastic |
| Pulling across the seat | Hip size or back rise | Choose larger size or increase back rise |
| Crotch hangs too low | Rise length | Remove a small amount of rise |
| Legs feel too narrow | Thigh width | Blend toward a larger leg size |
| Pocket openings gape | Pocket opening | Understitch and reinforce |
| Waistband twists | Elastic | Add vertical securing stitches |
| Hem looks uneven | Grain or cutting | Let shorts hang and re-level hems |
For larger fitting changes, make a test pair from inexpensive woven fabric first.
An old cotton sheet or leftover fabric is perfectly fine.
Your nice linen does not need to participate in the experimental phase.
Easy Ways to Change the Pattern
Once you know the fit works, this becomes a really useful basic men’s shorts pattern.
You can lengthen the legs for a relaxed Bermuda-style version, shorten them slightly for hotter weather, leave out the drawstring or replace the eyelets with buttonholes.
You can also use contrast fabric for the pocket bags, add a back patch pocket, make a wider cuffed hem or topstitch the side seams for a slightly more structured look.
A dark olive, navy, charcoal or chocolate linen would completely change the feel of the same pattern.
And if you have already sewn my earlier free men’s shorts sewing pattern, think of these as its softer summer cousin.
The earlier pattern is a more general men’s shorts project, while this version is deliberately built around the linen shorts look: breathable woven fabric, a relaxed leg, comfortable elastic waist and casual drawstring front.
That is also why I wanted these to have their own pattern and tutorial instead of simply turning the previous shorts into another variation.
How to Style Handmade Men’s Linen Shorts
This is probably my favorite part of the project because these shorts already work with several of the men’s patterns I have made.
Instead of sewing separate garments that never meet again, you can start building a small handmade wardrobe.
Linen Shorts + Handmade T-Shirt
This is exactly how I styled the pair in the photos.
Beige linen shorts, a charcoal T-shirt and white sneakers.
Simple, but really good.
If you want to sew the top too, my free men’s T-shirt sewing pattern gives you a classic knit T-shirt that works perfectly with this kind of relaxed summer bottom.
The T-shirt is one of those pieces that makes everything else more useful because you can wear it alone or use it as the first layer under almost anything.
With natural beige linen, I would try charcoal, black, dark olive, cream, navy or muted brown.
And I would keep the shoes equally uncomplicated.
White sneakers, canvas shoes or simple summer slip-ons are enough.
The linen already gives the outfit texture.
Linen Shorts + T-Shirt + Hoodie
Summer weather occasionally remembers that evenings exist.
When it gets cooler, keep the same T-shirt and shorts and add a layer.
My DIY hoodie sewing pattern has a relaxed unisex shape, so it works nicely with these shorts without making the outfit look overly styled.
I would make the hoodie in charcoal, forest green, washed navy or warm gray.
Then you still have the light summer shorts underneath, but the outfit works when the temperature drops later in the day.
Linen Shorts + T-Shirt + Handmade Jacket
For late summer or early fall, I would take the same base outfit one step further.
Keep the linen shorts and T-shirt and add my free men’s jacket sewing pattern.
I really like the contrast here.
The linen shorts stay soft and relaxed while the jacket brings more structure to the upper half of the outfit.
Olive, brown, navy, faded black or muted khaki would all work beautifully with natural linen.
And suddenly the shorts that looked completely summery with only a T-shirt can carry you quite a bit further into the season.
Building a Handmade Men’s Capsule Wardrobe
This is where the individual projects start becoming much more interesting to me.
Start with:
linen shorts + T-shirt
Add:
a hoodie
Then:
a jacket
Now that small collection gives you several outfits for changing temperatures instead of four unrelated sewing projects.
That is the direction I want to take more of my men’s patterns.
I do not want to make dozens of random free patterns just so there is another pattern on the blog.
I would rather slowly build a group of pieces that actually work together and can become a real handmade wardrobe.
Can You Sew the Shorts Without Pockets?
Absolutely.
Leave out all four pocket pieces.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew each outer side seam in one continuous line from the waist to the hem.
Then continue with the inseams and waistband exactly as described above.
It saves a little fabric and makes the project faster.
Would I personally leave them out?
Probably not.
A man without pockets tends to discover very quickly that everyone around him has become temporary pocket storage.
Do Men’s Linen Shorts Need a Lining?
Usually, no.
For medium-weight linen or a linen blend like the fabric I used, I would leave the shorts unlined.
That keeps them lighter and more breathable.
If your linen is pale or quite sheer, hold two layers against the light before cutting.
Sometimes simply choosing a slightly heavier linen is enough.
For genuinely sheer fabric, you can add a lightweight lining, although I would personally choose another linen for this pattern before turning simple summer shorts into a heavily lined project.
Can I Use 100% Linen Instead of a Linen Blend?
Absolutely.
Pure linen will usually give the shorts even more texture and can feel wonderfully breathable.
It may wrinkle more, and some linen fabrics move more while cutting and sewing, but neither of those things makes them unsuitable.
A linen blend is simply a little easier for many beginners because it can have more stability.
If you use very soft washed linen, take extra care around the pocket openings and waist so those edges do not stretch while you work.
Men’s Linen Shorts Sewing Pattern FAQ
Is This Men’s Linen Shorts Pattern Beginner Friendly?
Yes.
A beginner who is already comfortable sewing basic straight seams should be able to make these shorts.
There is no zipper fly or tailored waistband.
The pockets, elastic casing and optional eyelets are probably the parts that require the most patience, but none of them require an advanced sewing machine.
If this is one of your first clothing projects, do not worry about making the inside look like factory-made clothing immediately. A regular machine is completely enough, and you can gradually experiment with cleaner seam finishes as your confidence grows. My beginner guide to whether you actually need a serger also explains what an overlocker changes and what a normal sewing machine can already do.
What Is the Best Linen for Men’s Shorts?
I would choose a light- to medium-weight apparel linen or linen blend.
Medium-weight linen gives you enough structure for the waistband and pockets while still feeling relaxed around the legs.
For beginners, a linen-cotton blend is especially easy to handle.
How Much Linen Do I Need?
For fabric approximately 140–150 cm | 55–60 in wide, plan on roughly 1.5–2 m | 1.65–2.2 yd, depending on the size and desired shorts length.
For narrower fabric, allow more.
Always check your cutting layout before buying if you are working with limited fabric.
Should I Prewash Linen Before Sewing?
Yes.
Prewash and dry the linen the same way you plan to care for the finished shorts.
Then press it before cutting.
This takes care of most initial shrinkage before the garment is sewn.
Can I Leave Out the Drawstring?
Yes.
The drawstring is completely optional.
Skip the eyelets or buttonholes and finish the waistband as a simple elastic casing.
Do I Need a Serger?
No.
You can sew the entire project on a regular sewing machine.
Because linen tends to fray, simply finish the raw seam allowances with a zigzag, overcast stitch or another suitable seam finish.
What to Sew Next
If these linen shorts are your first men’s project, I would make the T-shirt next.
Together, the linen shorts and men’s T-shirt give you a complete handmade summer outfit without adding anything complicated.
Then move into layering.
The hoodie adds an easy casual layer for cooler evenings, and the jacket carries the same wardrobe toward spring and early fall.
You can also browse my men’s patterns collection on Sparrow Refashion as I continue adding more projects.
Because I am definitely not finished with this part of the blog.
One Pair of Linen Shorts, but Not Really the End
I started this project because I wanted to make a simple pair of men’s linen shorts.
Somewhere between drafting the pattern, sewing the pockets and taking the photos, I realized I was building something else too.
A men’s handmade wardrobe.
First there were individual projects.
A T-shirt.
A hoodie.
A jacket.
Now linen shorts.
Put them beside one another and they stop looking like separate sewing tutorials.
They start looking like clothes that can actually live in the same closet and be worn together.
I really like that.
My goal is not to make fifty random free patterns.
I would rather slowly create patterns that connect with one another and become clothes people genuinely wear.
So I am going to keep going.
These linen shorts are very much the summer part of that collection, but I am already thinking about what comes next.
I want to take the men’s patterns into fall and winter, warmer fabrics, longer layers and a few pieces that have been sitting in my sketchbook waiting for their turn.
For now, though, I think these shorts have earned a warm day, a simple T-shirt, white sneakers and absolutely no complicated styling whatsoever.
Sometimes that is exactly what good clothes are for.
Free Men’s Linen Shorts Sewing Pattern – 8 Sizes
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