How to Sew a Bullet Journal Cover: Free Pattern + Video

I have a slightly unreasonable relationship with notebooks.

I buy one because the paper feels nice. Then I decide it is too nice for ordinary notes. A few weeks later, I buy another notebook for the ordinary notes, while the first one sits on the shelf waiting for a future version of me who apparently has perfect handwriting and a beautifully organized life.

A fabric cover does not solve that problem, but it does make the notebook look even more special.

In this step-by-step tutorial, I will show you how to sew a fabric bullet journal cover with one fitted pocket and an elastic strap. The finished cover is reusable, washable depending on your fabric choices, and adjustable enough to fit notebooks with slightly different spine thicknesses.

Free PDF

I created a free PDF sewing pattern for the project ( at the end of the post ), but I will also show you how to draft a custom journal cover pattern directly from your own notebook. It is a simple paper-wrapping method, so there is very little measuring and absolutely no need for mysterious patternmaking geometry.

This project is also a lovely way to use leftover fabric. A piece of canvas from a bag, quilting cotton from a dress, or linen left over from a home-sewing project can become a proper home for your bullet journal.

And unlike the notebook itself, the cover does not expect you to create a perfect weekly spread every Sunday evening.

If you are completely new to bullet journaling, the official Bullet Journal guide explains the original method and how it can be adapted to your own planning style. This tutorial focuses on making the reusable fabric cover that protects the notebook.

Make the complete journal set: After sewing the cover, use the remaining fabric to make my pencil case and bookmark combo for journals. The two projects are designed to work beautifully together.

Free Bullet Journal Cover Sewing Pattern

The free PDF pattern makes it easy to cut the correct cover shape without calculating every measurement yourself.

Print the pattern at 100% or Actual Size. Do not select Fit to Page or Shrink to Fit.

Print the first page before printing the entire file and measure the test square. If the square is not exactly the stated size, check your printer settings before continuing.

My detailed guide to printing, assembling, and cutting PDF sewing patterns will help if this is your first downloadable pattern.

Video Tutorial: How to Sew a Bullet Journal Cover

The written instructions below include every measurement and sewing step, but the video is especially helpful when positioning the elastic, turning the corners, and folding the journal pocket.

Watch the full tutorial once before cutting the fabric, then replay each section as you sew.

DIY Bullet Journal Cover at a Glance

The Best Fabric for a Bullet Journal Cover

The fabric should be stable enough to protect the journal but not so thick that the folded pocket becomes bulky.

Fabric	How it behaves	Finished effect	My recommendation
Cotton canvas	Stable and easy to control	Structured and durable	Excellent
Quilting cotton	Lightweight and easy to press	Crisp with interfacing	Best first choice
Cotton-linen blend	Stable with natural texture	Soft and slightly rustic	Very good
Cotton poplin	Smooth and firmly woven	Clean and lightweight	Very good
Lightweight denim	Strong and stable	Casual and durable	Good if not too thick
Corduroy	Stable but bulky at folds	Textured and cozy	Better after a practice version
Rayon or viscose	Soft and slippery	Too floppy without strong support	Not ideal
Stretch knit	Distorts while sewing	Unstable around the journal	Avoid
Upholstery fabric	Very thick through seams	Bulky and difficult to turn	Usually avoid

For the easiest first version, use quilting cotton with lightweight fusible interfacing.

Canvas is another very good choice when you want a sturdier cover. If the canvas already feels firm, use only lightweight interfacing or interface the outer piece without interfacing the lining.

Heavy fabric combined with heavy interfacing can make the finished cover feel more like a small folding table than a notebook accessory.

Choosing the Right Interfacing

Fusible interfacing helps the bullet journal cover keep its shape and prevents the elastic from pulling the fabric out of alignment.

For quilting cotton, fuse lightweight or medium-weight interfacing to the outer fabric. You can also interface the lining if both fabrics are particularly light.

For cotton canvas, cotton-linen, or lightweight denim, interfacing only the outer piece is usually enough.

The prepared fabric should still bend comfortably around the journal spine. If it already feels stiff before sewing, it will become even firmer once the seam allowances and folded pocket are added.

Always test the interfacing on a small fabric scrap first. Some fusible products can slightly change the color, texture, or drape of the fabric.

Follow the instructions supplied with your interfacing because the correct temperature and pressing time vary between products.

Supplies and Sewing Tools

You will need:

• the free bullet journal cover sewing pattern;
• outer fabric;
• lining fabric;
• lightweight or medium-weight fusible interfacing;
• flat elastic;
• matching all-purpose thread;
• fabric scissors or a rotary cutter;
• cutting mat, if using a rotary cutter;
• pins or sewing clips;
• fabric marker or tailor’s chalk;
• iron and ironing board;
• point turner or blunt chopstick;
• sewing machine;
• ruler or measuring tape;
• paper and pencil if drafting a custom pattern.

You can see the rulers, cutting tools, clips, marking tools, and other equipment I regularly use in my guide to the best sewing, pattern-drafting, and upcycling tools.

A universal sewing-machine needle in size 80/12 works well for quilting cotton, poplin, and similar woven fabrics. Use a size 90/14 needle for canvas or thicker layers.

The official SCHMETZ universal needle guide includes available needle sizes and suitable fabric types.

Use a fresh needle when sewing canvas or several interfaced layers. A worn needle can cause skipped stitches, uneven stitching, or difficulty passing through the folded pocket.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

For the free fabric journal cover pattern, cut the following pieces:

Pattern piece	Outer fabric	Lining	Interfacing
Main journal cover	Cut 1	Cut 1	Cut 1
Optional lining support	—	—	Cut 1 if both fabrics are very light
Flat elastic strap	Cut 1 according to the pattern	—	—

Before removing the paper pattern, transfer:

• the pocket fold line;
• the elastic placement marks;
• the turning-opening marks;
• the center or spine marks, if included.

Transfer the markings to the wrong side of the fabric using a removable fabric marker.

How Much Fabric Do You Need?

The amount of fabric depends on the journal size and whether the outer cover and lining are cut from the same material.

For a typical A5-style bullet journal, approximately:

30 cm | 11.8 in

of fabric is usually enough when the fabric is wide enough to place the outer and lining pieces beside each other.

This works with most standard fabric widths, including:

• 110 cm | 43 in;
• 150 cm | 59 in.

Before cutting, place both full pattern pieces across the fabric width. Make sure they fit without overlapping each other or extending into the selvage.

When using separate outer and lining fabrics, one suitable remnant of each fabric is normally enough.

Add a little extra fabric when:

• the print has a clear direction;
• you want to center a large motif;
• you need to match stripes or checks;
• the fabric has damaged or uneven edges;
• you prefer a comfortable cutting margin.

For directional prints, add approximately:

5 cm | 2 in

to the required fabric length.

The most accurate method is also the simplest: print or draft the pattern, place it on the fabric, and check the layout before cutting.

How to Draft a Custom Bullet Journal Cover Pattern

The free PDF pattern is convenient, but journals come in many sizes.

Some are slim, and some have thick paper. Some become mysteriously wider after six months of receipts, stickers, washi tape, photographs, and pages that were definitely going to be organized later.

This simple paper-molding method creates a custom cover directly from your own journal.

The Paper-Wrapping Method

Place the closed journal on a large piece of paper.

Wrap the paper around the front cover, spine, and back cover as though you were making a temporary paper dust jacket.

Keep the paper smooth and close to the journal, but do not pull it tightly. The finished fabric cover needs a little room to slide on and off.

Mark:

• the top edge of the journal;
• the bottom edge;
• the front outer edge;
• the back outer edge;
• the spine position.

Open the paper flat.

The distance around the front cover, spine, and back cover gives you the basic finished cover width.

The journal height gives you the basic finished cover height.

Now add ease, the folded pocket extension, and seam allowances.

Custom Journal Cover Formulas

These formulas create a fitted cover with one fabric pocket and one elastic holder.

Pattern section	Formula
Finished cover height	Journal height + 1 cm
Pattern height	Finished cover height + 2 cm
Finished body width	Full width around journal + 1 cm
Pocket extension	7 cm
Pattern width	Finished body width + pocket extension + 2 cm

The full width around the journal includes:

• the front cover;
• the spine;
• the back cover.

If the notebook is unusually thick or has a flexible cover, increase the total width ease to:

1.5 cm | 0.6 in

The pocket extension can also be adjusted.

A pocket depth of:

7 cm | 2.8 in

works well for many journals.

For a small notebook, you may prefer:

6 cm | 2.4 in

For a large or heavy planner, use:

8 cm | 3.1 in

A deeper pocket holds the journal more securely, but it also creates additional layers at the upper and lower edges.

Custom Pattern Example for an A5 Journal

Here is an example using an A5-style journal.

The journal measures:

• height: 21 cm | 8.3 in;
• front cover width: 14.8 cm | 5.8 in;
• back cover width: 14.8 cm | 5.8 in;
• spine thickness: 2 cm | 0.8 in.

First, calculate the full width around the journal:

14.8 cm + 2 cm + 14.8 cm = 31.6 cm

Add the width ease:

31.6 cm + 1 cm = 32.6 cm

Add the pocket extension:

32.6 cm + 7 cm = 39.6 cm

Finally, add the seam allowance for both short edges:

39.6 cm + 2 cm = 41.6 cm

The final pattern width is:

41.6 cm | 16.4 in

Now calculate the pattern height:

21 cm + 1 cm ease + 2 cm seam allowance = 24 cm

The final pattern height is:

24 cm | 9.4 in

For this example, cut one outer-fabric rectangle and one lining rectangle measuring:

41.6 cm × 24 cm | 16.4 in × 9.4 in

Mark the pocket fold line:

7 cm | 2.8 in

from the finished short edge.

Remember that the pattern measurement includes the seam allowance. Mark the fold from the finished edge position, or use the completed paper pattern as your guide.

How to Measure the Elastic Strap

The elastic should hold the second journal cover securely without bending or distorting it.

The easiest method is to position the elastic directly on the paper pattern.

Measure the distance between the upper and lower seam lines. Cut the elastic slightly shorter than this finished distance so it lies flat with gentle tension.

Then add:

2 cm | 0.8 in

for the two ends that will be caught inside the seam allowances.

The elastic should stretch comfortably. It should not pull the fabric into a deep curve.

Firm elastic requires less tension. Softer elastic may need to be shortened slightly more.

Before sewing, pin the elastic temporarily to the paper pattern and slide the journal underneath it. This quick test is considerably easier than replacing the elastic after the cover has been sewn.

Seam Allowances Used in This Tutorial

Sewing area	Measurement
Main outer seam	1 cm
Turning opening	5 cm
Outer topstitching	0.5 cm
Folded pocket seams	0.5 cm
Elastic inside seam allowance	At least 1 cm

The main seam allowance is wider because it will be enclosed inside the cover.

The final topstitching and pocket seams are narrower so they remain close to the finished edges.

Prepare the Fabric

Wash and press the fabric before cutting if you plan to wash the finished journal cover.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric.

Follow the manufacturer’s temperature and pressing instructions. Use a pressing cloth when necessary.

Press the iron down, hold it in place for the recommended time, lift it, and move to the next section. Avoid sliding the iron because this can stretch the fabric or shift the interfacing before the adhesive has bonded.

Allow the fabric to cool completely while lying flat.

Once cooled, cut the outer cover and lining accurately.

Transfer:

• the pocket fold line;
• the elastic placement marks;
• the center or spine marks;
• the turning-opening position.

When cutting small remnants, pattern weights can be faster than pinning every edge. You can make a complete set from fabric leftovers using my two DIY pattern-weight designs and free PDF.

Before You Start Sewing

Check these details before placing the fabric pieces together:

• The PDF was printed at the correct scale.
• The test square measures correctly.
• The journal fits inside the paper pattern.
• The pocket extension is deep enough to hold the journal cover.
• The elastic stretches comfortably.
• The outer fabric and lining are exactly the same size.
• The interfacing is smooth and fully fused.
• The fabric print faces the intended direction.
• The elastic is not twisted.
• All pattern markings have been transferred.

This final check takes about a minute and can prevent the special kind of irritation caused by discovering an upside-down print only after the entire project is finished.

How to Sew a Fabric Bullet Journal Cover

Step 1: Position the Elastic

Place the outer fabric right side up.

Position the elastic on the marked placement line near the short end opposite the folded pocket.

The elastic should run vertically from the upper edge to the lower edge.

Allow each elastic end to extend beyond the fabric edge by approximately:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Pin or clip the elastic securely.

Make sure it lies flat and is not twisted.

Baste both elastic ends to the outer fabric inside the:

1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance

This temporary stitching prevents the elastic from moving when the lining is added.

Keep the middle of the elastic away from the remaining raw edges so it does not become accidentally caught in the side seam.

Step 2: Add the Lining

Place the lining over the outer fabric with the right sides together.

The elastic will now be sandwiched between the two fabric layers.

Match all four edges and corners.

Pin or clip around the entire cover, adding extra clips near the elastic ends.

Mark a turning opening along the lower long edge measuring:

5 cm | 2 in

Place the opening away from the corners and away from the elastic.

A straight section is easier to fold inward and close neatly later.

Step 3: Sew Around the Cover

Starting at one end of the turning opening, sew around the entire rectangle using a:

1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance

Stop when you reach the opposite end of the opening.

Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Do not sew across the:

5 cm | 2 in turning opening

When sewing over the elastic ends, backstitch or sew across each end twice for additional strength.

The elastic will be pulled whenever the journal is inserted, so this small reinforcement helps prevent it from working loose inside the seam.

Step 4: Trim the Corners

Trim each corner diagonally, leaving a small amount of fabric between the cut edge and the stitching.

Do not cut through the seam.

You can also grade the seam allowances by trimming the lining layer slightly narrower than the outer layer.

Removing this excess fabric reduces bulk and helps the corners turn more sharply.

Do not trim too closely around the elastic ends. Those areas need enough fabric to remain secure.

Step 5: Turn the Cover Right Side Out

Turn the cover right side out through the:

5 cm | 2 in opening

Pull the fabric through gradually rather than trying to force the entire cover through at once.

Use a blunt point turner or chopstick to shape the corners.

Push gently from the inside. Sharp scissors may seem efficient, but they are also very good at introducing themselves through the corner of an almost-finished project.

Smooth the elastic and check that it is securely attached at the top and bottom.

Step 6: Press the Cover

Roll each seam gently between your fingers so the stitching sits directly along the outer edge.

Press the cover flat.

At the turning opening, fold the raw edges toward the inside by:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Make sure the folded edges continue the lower edge in a straight line.

Clip the opening closed.

Press carefully near the elastic. Excessive heat can damage some synthetic elastic, so do not place the hot iron directly on it.

Step 7: Topstitch Around the Outer Edge

Topstitch around the entire cover approximately:

0.5 cm | 0.2 in from the edge

The topstitching closes the turning opening and prevents the outer fabric and lining from shifting.

Begin along the lower edge so the opening is closed early in the process.

When you reach a corner:

1. Stop with the needle lowered into the fabric.
2. Lift the presser foot.
3. Rotate the cover.
4. Lower the presser foot.
5. Continue sewing.

A stitch length of approximately 3 mm creates a clean decorative finish.

Press the cover again after topstitching.

Step 8: Create the Fabric Pocket

Place the cover with the lining side facing up.

Fold the marked short end toward the lining side along the pocket fold line.

The fold should create a pocket approximately:

7 cm | 2.8 in deep

or the depth marked on the free pattern.

Make sure the upper and lower edges match exactly.

Pin or clip the folded section at the top and bottom.

Before sewing, slide the journal cover inside the fold to test the fit.

The pocket should hold the journal securely without bending the book cover. If it feels too tight, reduce the fold slightly before stitching.

Step 9: Sew the Pocket

Sew across the upper and lower edges of the folded pocket approximately:

0.5 cm | 0.2 in from the edge

Begin at the folded side and stop when you reach the pocket opening.

Backstitch at both ends.

Follow the existing topstitching line when possible. This creates a cleaner finish and avoids adding an unnecessary second line of stitching.

These two short seams connect the folded pocket to the main cover while leaving the vertical opening free for the journal.

Step 10: Insert the Bullet Journal

Slide one journal cover into the fabric pocket.

Gently bend the opposite journal cover and slip it underneath the elastic strap.

Open and close the journal several times.

Check that:

• the spine sits comfortably;
• the fabric does not pull tightly across the front;
• the journal cover remains inside the pocket;
• the elastic holds the opposite side securely;
• the notebook opens without stretching the seams;
• the fabric does not bunch around the spine.

Press the empty fabric cover one final time if necessary.

Your DIY fabric bullet journal cover is finished.

How to Adjust the Fit

The cover should fit closely enough to remain in place but loosely enough for the journal to open fully.

The Cover Feels Too Tight

Remove the journal and check whether the pocket is folded too deeply.

You may be able to unpick the two short pocket seams and reduce the pocket depth by:

0.5 cm | 0.2 in

or:

1 cm | 0.4 in

If the main cover itself is too small, increase the total width ease when drafting the next version.

The Cover Feels Too Loose

Increase the folded pocket depth slightly.

You can also shorten the elastic strap if the opposite journal cover moves underneath it.

Do not make the fabric cover extremely tight. Bullet journals often become thicker as they fill with notes, stickers, photographs, and small paper objects we were absolutely going to organize properly.

The Journal Does Not Open Flat

The pattern may need more width across the spine.

Measure the journal again while it is open and add:

0.5 cm | 0.2 in

to:

1 cm | 0.4 in

of extra width.

This is especially helpful for thick, hardbound notebooks.

Common Bullet Journal Cover Problems

Problem	Likely cause	Simple solution
Corners look rounded	Seam allowances were not trimmed	Trim the corners diagonally before turning
Fabric bubbles	Interfacing was not fused evenly	Press again using the correct heat and time
Journal cover bends	Fabric cover is too tight	Reduce pocket depth or add width ease
Fabric cover slides	Pattern is too wide	Deepen the pocket or shorten the elastic
Elastic pulls the fabric	Elastic is too short or firm	Replace it with a longer or softer elastic
Elastic comes loose	Ends were not reinforced	Stitch over each end twice
Machine struggles at pocket	Too many thick layers meet there	Use a fresh needle and sew slowly
Topstitching looks uneven	Fabric shifted after turning	Press thoroughly and use the presser foot as a guide
Journal will not open fully	Not enough spine width	Add extra ease to the full cover width
Folded pocket twists	Top and bottom edges were misaligned	Refold and match both edges before sewing

Always test the fit before sewing the pocket permanently.

Two temporary clips can tell you almost everything you need to know and are considerably less annoying than a seam ripper.

Tips for a Neater Fabric Book Cover

Use a Stable Outer Fabric

Stable woven fabric keeps the corners square and makes the pocket easier to sew.

Very soft fabric may look beautiful, but it can wrinkle and shift around the notebook.

Do Not Overstabilize the Spine

The finished cover must bend around the journal spine.

Heavy canvas, thick batting, and stiff interfacing used together may prevent the book from closing comfortably.

Choose enough structure to support the cover while still allowing it to move.

Baste the Elastic First

A short basting seam prevents the elastic from sliding when the lining is positioned over it.

It also gives you one final chance to check that the elastic is not twisted.

Test the Cover with the Actual Journal

Notebooks described as the same size can still have different spine thicknesses, cover materials, and corner shapes.

The actual journal is more trustworthy than the size printed on its label.

Use Clips on Thick Fabric

Sewing clips work especially well for canvas, denim, and interfaced cotton.

They hold several layers together without distorting the edges.

Press Between Steps

Press after:

• fusing the interfacing;
• turning the cover;
• topstitching;
• folding the pocket.

Sewing joins the pieces. The iron persuades them to behave.

Ideas for Personalizing Your Bullet Journal Cover

Once you have sewn the basic version, you can add:

• a fabric pen loop;
• appliqué;
• embroidered initials;
• patchwork made from small scraps;
• a handmade label;
• decorative topstitching;
• a small exterior pocket;
• a ribbon bookmark;
• contrasting elastic;
• a button and elastic-loop closure;
• lightly quilted fabric;
• a clear vinyl label pocket;
• a small handle;
• fabric tabs or page markers.

Add embellishments to the outer fabric before sewing it to the lining.

Keep decorations away from the:

1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance

and away from the pocket fold line.

This prevents embroidery, labels, or appliqué from disappearing into the seams or becoming trapped inside the folded pocket.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is This Bullet Journal Cover Easy to Sew?

Yes. The project uses straight stitching, turning, pressing, topstitching, and one simple fold.

The most important tip is to test the journal inside the folded pocket before sewing the final two seams.

Can I Sew the Cover Without Interfacing?

You can skip the interfacing when using an already firm fabric such as medium-weight canvas.

Quilting cotton, poplin, and light linen usually benefit from lightweight interfacing. It gives the cover a cleaner shape and supports the elastic.

Can I Use Fabric Leftovers?

Absolutely.

This DIY bullet journal cover is an excellent scrap-fabric sewing project.

The outer and lining pieces do not need to match. A printed cotton outer cover paired with a plain lining can look more intentional than using one fabric for everything.

Will the Cover Fit Different Notebooks?

The elastic side makes this design more adjustable than a fitted cover with two fabric pockets.

It can accommodate small differences in journal thickness, but the notebook height and width should remain reasonably close to the original pattern size.

For a very different notebook, use the paper-wrapping method to draft a custom version.

Can I Add a Second Fabric Pocket Instead of Elastic?

Yes.

Add a second pocket extension to the opposite short edge of the pattern and fold both ends inward.

This creates a traditional fitted book cover. It will hold both covers inside fabric pockets but will be less adjustable than the elastic version.

Can I Use Batting?

Thin fusible fleece can create a softly padded journal cover.

However, it adds bulk to the folded pocket seams. Trim the fleece away from the seam allowances and use it only with a lightweight outer fabric.

Avoid thick batting.

Can I Make a Cover for a Planner or Sketchbook?

Yes.

Use the same paper-wrapping method to copy the planner or sketchbook dimensions.

For a large or heavy book, make the folded pocket slightly deeper and use a stronger woven fabric.

Can the Fabric Cover Be Washed?

That depends on the fabric, interfacing, elastic, and decorations.

A plain cotton cover can usually be gently hand-washed. Avoid very hot water, aggressive spinning, and high dryer temperatures because these can shrink the fabric or damage the interfacing.

Remove the journal first.

I know that sounds painfully obvious, but this is the internet, and somewhere a notebook has already entered a washing machine.

More Scrap-Fabric Projects to Sew

Once the bullet journal cover is finished, there will probably still be a few fabric pieces left on the table. Apparently scraps reproduce when nobody is watching.

Use them for one of these projects:

• Make the matching pencil case and bookmark combo for journals.
• Sew two easy fabric pouches with free PDF patterns.
• Browse these 12 sewing ideas for using fabric scraps.
• Turn smaller pieces into easy fabric tissue covers.

A Better Home for All Those Plans

A bullet journal can contain almost anything.

Carefully drawn calendars. Grocery lists. Sewing ideas. Half-finished plans. Passwords written in a code so secure that even their owner cannot understand it three weeks later.

The fabric cover does not care what is inside.

It protects the notebook, gives a beautiful leftover piece of fabric a useful purpose, and can move to a new journal when the current one is full.

That is what I like most about this project. It feels personal without being precious. You can sew it in an afternoon, use fabric you already own, and adjust the pattern around the notebook sitting directly in front of you.

To complete the set, sew a matching fabric pencil case and bookmark from the remaining scraps. Together, they make a practical handmade gift for anyone who loves notebooks, drawing, planning, studying, or journaling.

And perhaps a handmade cover will finally persuade us to use that beautiful blank journal instead of saving it forever.

Perhaps.

At the very least, it will look excellent while waiting on the shelf.

Free Bullet Journal Sewing PDF Pattern for my Subscribers