A soft piece of jersey, a cotton gusset and a comfortable waistband, that is the starting point for these women’s boxer briefs. I’m sharing my free sewing pattern in eight sizes, with a video and step-by-step photos to help you sew your own on a regular sewing machine.
You can use suitable fabric from your stash or give a cotton T-shirt another life. Below, I’ll show you how to put the pieces together, enclose the gusset seams and finish the waist and legs so they stretch comfortably when you move.
Watch the Women’s Boxer Briefs Sewing Tutorial
Watch the sewing process below, then follow the photo tutorial at your own pace. The gusset is especially helpful to see in motion: once you see how the fabric rolls between the two layers, the burrito method makes much more sense.
Women’s Boxer Briefs at a Glance
| Project detail | What you need to know |
|---|---|
| Pattern | Free women’s boxer briefs PDF in 10 sizes |
| Skill level | Confident beginner |
| Sewing machine | Regular sewing machine; a serger is optional |
| Main fabric | Soft knit with suitable stretch and good recovery |
| Pattern versions | 20–30% stretch or 40–60% stretch |
| Gusset lining | Soft cotton jersey or lightweight cotton interlock |
| Waist elastic | 2.5–3 cm wide, approximately 1–1¼ in |
| Main seam allowance | 1 cm, approximately ⅜ in; check the PDF markings before cutting |
| Time | Allow about 1–2 hours, plus printing and fabric preparation |
Choose the Pattern Version for Your Fabric
There are two stretch ranges for this project. Choose the version after testing your fabric.
| Measured fabric stretch | Pattern version | Fabrics to consider, after testing |
|---|---|---|
| 20–30% | Low-Stretch / T-Shirt Version | Stable cotton jersey, lightweight interlock or suitable T-shirt fabric |
| 40–60% | Classic Stretch Version | Cotton-spandex, modal-elastane or other soft underwear jersey |
Fabric names alone cannot tell you which version to use. Two cotton jerseys can stretch very differently.
Before choosing your PDF, measure your fabric’s stretch percentage. My guide includes a free printable stretch gauge. Check recovery too: after stretching, the fabric should return close to its original length.
Use the version designed for your measured stretch range. If your fabric falls outside both ranges, choose another fabric for your first pair.
Materials and Tools
- Your printed pattern in the correct size and stretch version
- Soft knit fabric, large enough for your chosen size and cutting layout
- Cotton jersey or lightweight cotton interlock for the gusset lining
- Soft waistband elastic, 2.5–3 cm wide
- Polyester sewing thread
- A stretch or jersey/ballpoint needle suited to your fabric
- Fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and mat
- Pins or sewing clips
- Measuring tape and fabric marker
- A regular sewing machine and an iron
For the gusset lining, I like soft cotton jersey, including cotton with a little elastane. A clean cotton T-shirt can work too, provided it is in good condition and has enough give for the pattern.
Prewash both fabrics before cutting. If you are upcycling a T-shirt, avoid thin, stretched-out areas and existing bulky seams.
Prepare Your Machine and Cut the Pieces
Test a narrow zigzag or your machine’s stretch stitch on two scraps of the actual fabric. Stretch the sample seam and make sure the thread can move with it without snapping.
If you need help choosing a needle or stitch, my guide to sewing knit fabric on a regular sewing machine covers the setup in more detail.
Lay the prewashed fabric flat and smooth it without pulling. Press out wrinkles using a temperature suitable for the fabric, then let it cool before cutting.
Position the front and back so the greatest stretch runs around your hips, following the pattern’s grainline and stretch markings. If you are unsure which way to place them, check how to find fabric stretch direction and position your pattern before cutting.
| Pattern piece | Cut |
|---|---|
| Front | 1 on the fold |
| Back | 1 on the fold |
| Outer gusset | 1 from the main fabric |
| Gusset lining | 1 from the lining fabric |
Transfer the center marks and notches before removing the paper pattern. Use a washable marker or tiny snips contained within the seam allowance. Keep the front and back ends of the gusset clearly identified.
How to Sew Women’s Boxer Briefs: Photo Tutorial
Before u start sewing
Using a washable fabric marker, label the wrong side of the fabric pieces “Front” and “Back.”
With the fabric folded, make small notches in the crotch area of both the front and back pieces, on either side of the center pantyliner section. These notches will help you align the pieces when sewing. You can also mark these points with a washable fabric marker instead of cutting notches.
Use 1 cm / approximately ⅜ in seam allowances for the main seams, following the markings on your pattern. Sew with the stretch stitch you tested earlier.
Step 1: Sandwich the Front Between the Gusset Layers
Lay the front piece right side up. Place the outer gusset right side down on top, matching its front edge to the front crotch edge.
Place the gusset lining underneath the front, with the lining’s right side facing the front’s wrong side. The front crotch edge is now sandwiched between the two gusset layers.
Match the center marks and raw edges, then clip or pin all three layers together. Sew across the matched edge, keeping the rest of the front clear of your stitching.
Step 2: Open and Press the Gusset
Pull both gusset layers away from the front and smooth them together, wrong sides facing each other.
The seam allowance is now enclosed between them. Give the join a gentle press without stretching the fabric.
Step 3: Match the Outer Gusset to the Back
Place the free end of the outer gusset against the back crotch edge, right sides together. Match the center marks and any notches.
Clip these two layers together. Leave the lining loose for the next step.
Step 4: Enclose the Back Gusset Seam
Roll the front and back fabric inward into a small bundle between the gusset layers. Keep the roll narrow enough to stay clear of the seam you are about to sew.
Bring the loose lining around the bundle and match its free edge to the clipped back crotch edge. The back fabric should now sit between the outer gusset and the lining, just as the front did in Step 1.
Check that all three raw edges and center marks line up. Before sewing, feel along the seam to make sure none of the rolled fabric has been caught in it.
Sew across the matched edge using the same seam allowance.
Step 5: Turn the Gusset Right Side Out
Gently pull the rolled fabric through an open side of the gusset. Unroll the front and back, then smooth everything flat.
Both gusset joining seams should now be enclosed. Check that the lining lies smoothly and that the front and back are not twisted.
Press lightly. If the lining shifts while you handle the garment, baste its remaining raw edges to the outer gusset within the seam allowance.
Step 6: Sew the Side Seams
Fold the garment so the front and back are right sides together. Match the side edges at the waist and leg openings, then pin or clip.
Sew both side seams. Guide the fabric gently and let the machine feed it through.
If a seam becomes wavy or the machine skips stitches, pause and check your scrap sample again. My tips for fixing common knit sewing problems can help you work out what needs adjusting.
Step 7: Hem the Leg Openings
Turn each leg hem to the wrong side by the allowance marked on the PDF. Press gently and secure it with clips or pins.
Sew with a stretch-friendly hem stitch or a suitable twin needle. For a twin needle, use your machine’s recommended setup and sew from the right side so the two lines of stitching appear on the outside.
Keep the leg opening relaxed while sewing. Test the finished hem’s stretch before repeating it on the second leg — it needs to expand comfortably around your thigh.
Step 8: Check the Fit Before Finishing
Try on the boxer briefs before attaching the elastic or hemming the legs. Hold the waist at its intended position while checking the fit.
Sit down and move around. Check the rise, seat coverage, gusset position and room around the thighs. Remember that the unfinished waist has no elastic yet and the legs still include their hem allowance.
Make any fitting changes now, then transfer useful adjustments to your paper pattern. Your first pair is also your reference for the next one.
Step 9: Fit and Join the Waist Elastic
Wrap the elastic around your body where the waistband will sit. Adjust it until it feels secure and comfortable, and check that it stretches enough to pass over your hips.
If you need a starting point, try 90% of that body measurement, then adjust by feel. Elastic firmness varies, so the fitting check matters more than the formula.
Add 2 cm / approximately ¾ in for the overlap. For example, a 72 cm finished elastic loop needs a 74 cm strip with this overlap.
Overlap the ends, making sure the loop is not twisted, and sew the overlap securely with zigzag stitching.
Once sewn, your elastic should lie flat, without twisting, and the ends should be joined evenly.
Step 10: Mark the Waist and Elastic in Quarters
Fold the elastic loop into four equal sections and mark each quarter.
Divide the garment’s waist opening into four equal lengths too. The side seams may not fall exactly at the quarter points because the front and back can have different widths.
Match the four elastic marks to the four waist marks and clip them together. This distributes the elastic evenly around the opening.
Step 11: Attach the Waistband
For an exposed waistband, use elastic that feels comfortable directly against the skin. Place it on the outside of the garment, overlapping the waist edge by the attachment allowance specified for this finish on your pattern.
Keep that overlap even around the waist. Stitch near the elastic’s lower edge with a zigzag or three-step zigzag, making sure the fabric edge underneath is caught securely.
Work between the quarter marks, stretching the elastic only enough to match the fabric. Avoid pulling the jersey itself longer as you sew.
If you prefer covered elastic, use the waistband allowance specified for that finish. It needs enough fabric to wrap over the elastic; folding down an exposed-elastic waist without adjusting the pattern will lower the finished rise.
Step 12: Finish and Check Your Boxer Briefs
Trim loose threads and give the finished pair a light press at a suitable temperature. Avoid holding a hot iron directly on the elastic.
Check the waistband, hems and gusset one last time, then try them on again. The seams should stretch with you, and the leg openings should feel comfortable when you sit and move.
A Few Questions Before You Sew Another Pair
Can I make these boxer briefs from an old T-shirt?
Yes, if the fabric matches the pattern’s stretch requirements and still recovers well. Use the Low-Stretch version for fabric that tests at 20–30%, and avoid worn areas that have become thin or baggy.
Do I need a serger?
No. A regular sewing machine with a suitable needle and a tested stretch stitch can sew this project, including the gusset, waistband and hems.
Can I change the rise or leg length?
Yes. Make those changes on the paper pattern and check the fit in a test pair. Keep the matching seams the same length and retain the allowances needed for your chosen waist and leg finishes.
Your Next Pair Starts Here
Once you have worn your first pair, note anything you want to change: a little more leg length, a different waistband tension or a small adjustment to the rise. Write it on your pattern while it is still fresh in your mind.
That is the part I like about sewing my own basics. I can keep the details that work and change the ones that don’t. Save your adjusted pattern with a note about the fabric’s stretch, and you’ll have a useful starting point for your next pair.
Free Women’s Boxer Briefs Sewing Pattern For My Subscribers — 10 Sizes
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