Sparrow Refashion: A Blog for Sewing Lovers and DIY Enthusiasts

In this post you learn how to add seam allowance to sewing patterns.

Do you want to learn how to sew garments that look professional and fit well? If so, you need to master the concept of seam allowance. Seam allowance is one of the most important aspects of sewing, yet it is often overlooked or misunderstood by many sewists.

In this guide, we’ll explain everything you need to know about seam allowance in sewing, from its definition and importance to practical methods of adding it to various garment pieces. By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to sew with confidence and precision, and create stunning garments that you’ll be proud of.

What is Seam Allowance?

Seam allowance is the area between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching. It’s essentially the space that allows the fabric pieces to be joined together. While it may seem like a small detail, mastering seam allowance is a fundamental skill in sewing.

The width of the seam allowance can vary depending on the type of fabric, the style of the garment, and the preference of the sewist. However, a common standard is 1.5 cm (5/8 inch), which is the width of most sewing machine presser feet.

Why is Seam Allowance Important?

Seam allowance is important for several reasons, such as:

• Construction Stability: Adequate seam allowance provides stability and strength to the seams, preventing garments from falling apart with wear.
• Fit Adjustments: Having seam allowance allows for adjustments. If a garment is too tight, you can let out the seams, and if it’s too loose, you can take it in.
• Professional Finish: Proper seam allowance contributes to a polished and professional finish. Neat seams enhance the overall look of the garment.

Is Seam Allowance Always Necessary?

In some specific sewing techniques, such as quilting or attaching trims, seam allowance may not be necessary. However, for constructing garments like tops, jackets, skirts, and sleeves, adding seam allowance is a must.

Methods of Adding Seam Allowance

There are different ways of adding seam allowance to your fabric pieces, depending on the tools you have and the accuracy you need. Here are some of the most common methods:

1. With a School Compass

A school compass is a simple and inexpensive tool that can help you measure and mark the desired seam allowance along the fabric edges. To use it, you need to adjust the compass width to match the seam allowance width, and then run the compass along the fabric edge, creating a curved line. You can then cut along the line or use it as a guide for stitching.

2. With a Bobbin, Ruler, and Pencil

Another easy method of adding seam allowance is using a bobbin, a ruler, and a pencil. To do this, you need to place a ruler parallel to the fabric edge and secure it with pins or tape. Then, you need to run the bobbin along the ruler, creating a straight and even line for seam allowance. You can then mark the line with a pencil or cut along it.

3. With Clear Plastic Graph Ruler

A clear plastic graph ruler with measured markings is an excellent tool for adding seam allowance. It allows you to see the fabric underneath and align the ruler along the fabric edge. You can then mark the desired width of seam allowance with a pencil or a fabric marker and draw the line.

4. With Two Pencils and a Rubber Band

A creative and fun way of adding seam allowance is using two pencils and a rubber band. This method creates a makeshift seam allowance guide that you can slide along the fabric edge. To do this, you need to place two pencils side by side with a rubber band around them, creating a gap between them that matches the seam allowance width. You can then use the rubber band to mark the seam allowance line and the other pencil to trace the fabric edge.

Adding Seam Allowance to Different Garments

Depending on the type of garment you’re sewing, you may need to add seam allowance to different parts of the fabric pieces. Here are some examples of where to add seam allowance for some common garments:

Add seam allowance to the sides, and neckline for top.

Add seam allowance to the sides, shoulders, and neckline for jacket.

Add seam allowance to the sides, waist, and bottom for skirt.

Add seam allowance to the sides, and neckline for bustier

Sleeve: Seam allowance is added to the sides and cap of the sleeve.

Bustier with Cups: Incorporate seam allowance around the edges of the cups, as well as the sides and back closures.

Remember, the key is to add seam allowance around all edges but not on fold lines.

Important Note

By mastering seam allowance, you’re not just sewing; you’re crafting garments with precision and attention to detail. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist, understanding the significance of seam allowance will elevate your sewing projects.

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We hope this guide has helped you learn everything you need to know about seam allowance in sewing. Now, you’re ready to start sewing with confidence and create beautiful garments that fit well and look professional.

Happy sewing!

In this post you learned how to add seam allowance to sewing patterns.