Sparrow Refashion: A Blog for Sewing Lovers and DIY Enthusiasts

In this post, you will learn how to sew darts for perfect fit.

Darts are one of the most essential and versatile sewing techniques that you need to master if you want to make your own clothes or alter existing ones. Darts are folds or tucks in the fabric that create shape and fit in garments, especially in the bodice area. They can also add some style and detail to your garments, such as princess seams, pleats, or gathers.

There are many types of darts, such as side darts, shoulder darts, elbow darts, or neck darts. However, the most common and important ones are bust darts and waist darts. Bust darts are darts that shape the fabric around the bust, and waist darts are darts that shape the fabric around the waist. These darts are crucial for creating a flattering and comfortable fit for your body, as they accommodate the curves and contours of your figure.

In this sewing darts tutorial, you will learn how to sew bust and waist darts for a perfect fit. You will also learn how to measure and mark your darts, how to sew and press your darts, and how to adjust and manipulate your darts. You will also see some examples of garments that use bust and waist darts, and get some tips and tricks on how to sew darts like a pro.

So, if you’re ready to learn how to sew bust and waist darts, keep reading!

What are Bust and Waist Darts and Why are they Important ?

Bust and waist darts are folds or tucks in the fabric that are sewn to create shape and contour in the garment. They are usually located at the bust and waist areas, where the body curves are most prominent. Bust and waist darts help to reduce the excess fabric and create a smooth and fitted silhouette. They also help to add style and elegance to your designs, as they can create different effects depending on their size, shape, and position.

Tools and Materials you Will Need for Sewing Darts

• A sewing machine
• A sewing needle and thread , learn more how to choose right needle for your project
• A pair of scissors, check out my post on scissors in sewing.
• A measuring tape, learn more on those here.
• A ruler, grab my free curved rulers.
• A marking tool (such as a chalk or a pencil)
• A pattern or a garment with bust and waist darts marked

Types of Darts and How to Use Them

There are two main types of darts: single-pointed and double-pointed. Each type of dart has a specific purpose and placement on the garment.

Single-Pointed Darts

Single-pointed darts have one tip and two legs. They are used to create shape and contour in the garment, especially around the bust, waist, or shoulder. Single-pointed darts always extend from a seam, and the widest part of the dart corresponds to the seam edge.

Single-pointed darts can be further classified into two subtypes: skirt darts, and bust darts.

Skirt Darts

Skirt darts are similar to waist darts, but they help to shape the skirt around the hips and the derriere. You can placed them on the front and back of the skirt. Skirt darts can be horizontal, vertical, or diagonal, depending on the style and design of the skirt. Skirt darts are usually about 20 cm (8 inches) below the waistline for the front, and about 25 cm (10 inches) below the waistline for the back.

Bust Darts

Bust darts are used to fit the garment around the bust, and to create a flattering shape for the chest. They can be placed on the side seam, the shoulder seam, the neckline, or the center front of the bodice. Bust darts are usually about the same length as the distance from the shoulder to the bust point.

Double-Pointed Darts

Double-pointed darts have two tips, one at each end. They are used to create shape and contour in the garment, especially around the bust or the waist. Double-pointed darts have a narrow base and can be placed anywhere on the garment.

Double-pointed darts are usually used for garments that have a fitted waistline, such as dresses, jackets, or coats. They can also be used for garments that have a curved hemline, such as peplums, flounces, or ruffles.

Double-pointed darts subtype into waist darts.

Waist Darts

Waist darts are the most common type of single-pointed darts, as they help to fit the garment around the waistline. You can placed on the front or back of the bodice, skirt, or pants. Waist darts are usually about 2.5 cm (1 inch) below the bust point for the front, and about 5 cm (2 inches) above the waistline for the back.

How to Add Darts to Your Pattern

To add darts to your pattern, you need to mark the apex and the legs of the dart on the wrong side of the fabric. Use a water-soluble pencil and a ruler for this. The apex is the point where the dart ends, and the legs are the lines that connect the apex to the base. The base is the edge of the pattern piece where the dart starts.

The width and length of the dart depend on the difference between your measurements and the pattern measurements. For example, if your bust measurement is larger than the pattern measurement, you need to add a wider and longer dart to accommodate the extra fabric. If your waist measurement is smaller than the pattern measurement, you need to add a narrower and shorter dart to remove the excess fabric.

To calculate the width of the dart, you need to measure the difference between your measurement and the pattern measurement, and divide it by two. For example, if your bust measurement is 90 cm and the pattern measurement is 80 cm, the difference is 10 cm. Divide that by two, and you get 5 cm. That is the width of the dart at the base.

To calculate the length of the dart, you need to measure the distance from the apex to the base. For example, if you want to add a bust dart on the side seam, you need to measure the distance from your bust point to the side seam. That is the length of the dart.

How to Mark Bust and Waist Darts on Your Fabric

Before you sew the darts, you need to mark them on the wrong side of the fabric. Use for it a water-soluble pencil and a ruler. The darts have three parts: the apex, the legs, and the base. The apex is the point where the dart ends, and the legs are the lines that connect the apex to the base. The base is the edge of the pattern piece where the dart starts.

The width and length of the dart depend on the difference between your measurements and the pattern measurements.

For example, if your bust measurement is larger than the pattern measurement, you need to add a wider and longer dart to accommodate the extra fabric. If your waist measurement is smaller than the pattern measurement, you need to add a narrower and shorter dart to remove the excess fabric.

To calculate the width of the dart, you need to measure the difference between your measurement and the pattern measurement, and divide it by two. For example, if your bust measurement is 90 cm and the pattern measurement is 80 cm, the difference is 10 cm. Divide that by two, and you get 5 cm. That is the width of the dart at the base.

To calculate the length of the dart, you need to measure the distance from the apex to the base. For example, if you want to add a bust dart on the side seam, you need to measure the distance from your bust point to the side seam. That is the length of the dart.

How to Sew Bust and Waist Darts: a Step-by-Step Guide

How to Sew Bust Darts for a Perfect Fit

Bust darts can be placed on the side seam, the shoulder seam, the neckline, or the center front of the bodice.

To sew the bust darts, you need to follow these steps:

• Prepare your fabric and pattern. Make sure your fabric is washed, ironed, and folded in half with the right sides together.

• Mark the apex and the legs of the dart on the wrong side of the fabric using a water-soluble pencil and a ruler.

• Fold the fabric right sides together and pin along the marked lines, with the pin heads facing the apex.

• Sew from the edge of the fabric towards the apex, using a regular stitch length at the beginning and a shorter stitch length at the end. Do not backstitch or knot at the apex, but go off the edge of the fabric and cut the thread.

• Press the bust dart downwards for the side seam darts, towards the center front for the shoulder seam and neckline darts, and towards the side seams for the center front darts.

How to Sew Waist Darts

To sew the waist darts, you need to follow these steps:

• Mark the apex and the legs of the dart on the wrong side of the fabric using a water-soluble pen or chalk.

• Fold the fabric right sides together and pin along the marked lines, with the pin heads facing the apex.

• For a single-pointed dart, sew from the edge of the fabric towards the apex, using a regular stitch length at the beginning and a shorter stitch length at the end. Do not backstitch or knot at the apex, but go off the edge of the fabric and cut the thread.
• For a double-pointed dart, sew as if you’re sewing two single-pointed darts. Start in the middle and backstitch, then sew out to a tip. Repeat the same for the other tip of the dart.

• Press the waist dart flat, usually towards the center of the garment.

Video Tutorial on Sewing Darts

If you prefer to watch a video tutorial on how to sew darts. You can find it on my YouTube channel. I will show how to make it step by step.

Super easy sewing darts video tutorial for beginners.

Sewing Darts: How to Create Different Effects with Bust and Waist Darts

Bust and waist darts are not only functional, but also creative. You can create different effects with bust and waist darts by changing their size, shape, and position.

Here are some examples of how you can do that:

• To create more fullness and volume in the bust area, you can increase the size of the bust darts. You can also add more bust darts, such as a horizontal dart or a curved dart, to create more shape and contour.
• To create a more fitted and tailored look, you can decrease the size of the waist darts. You can also move the waist darts closer to the side seams, or create angled or curved waist darts, to create a more defined waistline.
• To create a more interesting and unique design, you can experiment with different shapes and positions of bust and waist darts. You can create diagonal, triangular, or diamond-shaped darts, or place them in unexpected places, such as the shoulder, the neckline, or the hemline.

Sewing Darts Tutorial Ending!

Sewing darts is a skill that can help you create flattering and well-fitting garments. Darts are essential for shaping the fabric to your body curves and adding style and elegance to your designs. However, sewing darts can be tricky and require some practice and patience. That’s why I have shared with you some tips and tricks on how to sew bust and waist darts.

I hope you found this post helpful and informative. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to share them below. I would love to hear from you and see your creations. Also, if you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends and fellow sewers who might benefit from it.

Thank you for reading and happy sewing! 😊

In this post, you have learned how to sew bust and waist darts.