Beginner Side Tie Tank Pattern Drafting for Summer

In this post, you will learn how to draft your own side tie tank.

Hey friends, we meet again! If you’ve been following along with my summer sewing series here on Sparrow Refashion, you know I’m all about creating breezy, wearable, and beginner-friendly pieces that feel just as good as they look.

Today, I’m excited to share a brand-new project that fits right into that vibe: a DIY side tie tank top pattern—and yes, we’re drafting it completely from scratch together! Don’t worry if you’ve never tried pattern drafting before. I’ll walk you through each step in a super easy, clear way so it feels totally doable, even if you’re just starting out.

What makes this tank so special? It’s comfy, modern, and perfect for summer. No buttons, no zippers, no elastic—just clean lines, adjustable side ties, and a flattering fit for a wide range of bust sizes. You can draft it to suit your body, your fabric, and your style.

Pattern drafting is honestly one of the most exciting parts of sewing. It gives you total freedom to bring your clothing ideas to life and create pieces that feel uniquely yours. If you’ve ever wanted to try drafting but felt unsure where to begin, this is a perfect first step.

Let’s get started!

What Is a Side Tie Tank?

A side tie tank is a modern, sleeveless summer top that ties at the sides instead of using buttons, zippers, or elastic. It’s stylish, breezy, and super easy to wear—perfect for warm weather and layering. What makes it extra beginner-friendly is that it’s simple to sew and fully adjustable. The side ties allow you to loosen or tighten the fit around your waist, making it both flattering and comfy. In this post, I’ll show you exactly how to draft your own side tie tank pattern using your body measurements—no commercial patterns needed! It’s a fantastic DIY sewing project if you’re just getting into pattern drafting for beginners, and it’s a wardrobe staple you’ll want to make again and again.

Materials & Tools for Pattern Drafting Side Ties Tank

Before we dive into drafting your tank, let’s make sure you have everything ready. You don’t need anything fancy—just some basic tools that make the process smooth and beginner-friendly.

Materials

🧵 Materials	Why You Need It
Pattern Paper	For drawing your custom tank top pattern. You can use any large paper like baking paper, wrapping paper, or even old newspapers. Check out my detailed post on all kind of pattern papers and choose best for your project.
Fabric (for final top)	To sew your tank once your pattern is ready. Light to medium-weight woven fabrics like cotton, linen, or double gauze work beautifully.
Fabric scraps (optional)	For testing small areas like tie placements or neckline curves before cutting the full version.

Tools

🛠️ Tools	Why You Need It
Measuring tape (soft)	To take accurate body measurements (like bust, length, and shoulder width). Essential for a good fit.
Large ruler (long)	Helps you draw straight lines for the body of the tank. A clear quilting ruler or standard ruler works great.
French Curve or Hip Curve	For drawing smooth armholes and neckline curves. Optional but helpful for a polished look.Grab my french curved rulers for free here.
Pencil or Fine Marker	For sketching your pattern lines. Easy to correct if needed.
Paper Scissors	To cut out your pattern pieces cleanly. Keep these separate from your fabric scissors!
Pins or Weights	To hold the pattern paper in place while tracing or cutting. Check out how to make them yourself here.
Notebook (optional)	Great for jotting down measurements and fit notes for future projects.
Clear tape or masking tape	For joining multiple pieces of paper if your pattern is large.

Measurements You’ll Need for Drafting Side Tie Tank

To draft your custom side tie tank pattern, you only need a few basic body measurements. These will help you create a fit that’s comfy, flattering, and just right for you—no guessing needed!

Tip:

Tip: Wear a well-fitting tank or camisole while measuring to get the most accurate results. You can also write your measurements down in a notebook so you can reuse them for other patterns later on!

Drafting the Side Tie Tank Top Pattern (Step-by-Step)

Now we’ll draft your custom tie-side tank top pattern — from scratch! We’ll begin with a basic bodice block and transform it into a breezy, sleeveless, wrap-style top.

Drafting the Back Bodice

How to Measure the Length of Your Tank Top

Before drafting your pattern, choose your desired top length. For this tutorial, we’ll use a length of: 45 cm (17.7 inches) — from the base of the neck (where your neck meets your shoulder) down to where you want the hem to end. This is a classic waist-length fit with a bit of ease — perfect for a summery tie-side tank that doesn’t cling too tightly.

How to Measure It Accurately:

• Start at the base of your neck – where the shoulder seam on a t-shirt sits.
• Measure straight down the front of your body – following the natural curve of the bust.
• Stop at your natural waistline – or wherever you want the top to end (you can go a few centimeters below the waist if you prefer a longer fit).
• Add ease for comfort – we recommend adding 5 cm (2 inches) of ease so the top sits naturally and leaves room for movement.

Step 1: Draw the Shoulder Width Line

Now that you’ve taken your measurements and chosen your top length, we’ll start drafting the front and back bodice by drawing the shoulder width line — this is the horizontal line at the top of your pattern and sets the base for the neckline and armhole.

How to Draw the Shoulder Width Line:

• Measure your full shoulder width – across the back, from the edge of one shoulder to the other.
• Divide that number by 2 – since we’re drafting on half of the body (center front or center back fold).
• Draw a horizontal line that length from the top edge of your paper — this is your shoulder line.

Example:

• Measured shoulder width: 38 cm (15 inches)

38 cm ÷ 2 = 19 cm (7.5 inches)

• Draw a horizontal line that’s 19 cm (7.5 in) long
• This line represents the top edge of your bodice — from center front (or center back) to shoulder point.

Pro Tip: If you’re not sure where your shoulder points are, try wearing a fitted t-shirt and measure from seam to seam across the top of the back.

Step 2: Drawing the Back Neckline

With your shoulder line drawn, it’s time to shape the back neckline — the gentle curve at the top of your back bodice. This is where the neckline will sit at the nape of your neck and extend slightly into the back for comfort and movement.

 Why the Back Neckline Matters:

Even though it’s less visible than the front, a properly drafted back neckline affects the fit and feel of the top — especially when it’s sleeveless and wrap-style. A neckline that’s too high can feel tight, and one that’s too low may gape or slide off the shoulders.

Two Ways to Measure the Neckline:

 Option 1: Direct Measurement (Visual Method)

This method is great if you like to decide things visually:

• Place your measuring tape at the back of your neck, where your neck meets the shoulders.
• Measure down the front of your body to where you want the neckline to end — usually 8–10 cm (3–4 inches) for a modest round neckline.
• Use that number as your neckline depth on your front bodice.

Option 2: Formula Method (Classic Patternmaking)

This method works for both the width and depth of the neckline using just your neck circumference.

•  Formula: Neck circumference ÷ 5 + 1 cm (0.4 in)

 How to Draft the Back Neckline (Classic Patternmaking):

To get a smooth and balanced curve, use this tried-and-true formula based on your neck circumference:

•  Back neckline width and depth = Neck circumference ÷ 5 + 1 cm (0.4 in)

Example:

Neck circumference = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 5 = 7.6 cm

7.6 + 1 = 8.6 cm (3.4 in)

So:

Neck width (on the shoulder line) = 8.6 cm (3.4 in)

Step 3: Drawing the Back Neckline Depth

The back neckline is usually much shallower than the front neckline, but it still plays an important role in the overall fit and comfort of your tank top — especially around the nape of your neck and shoulders.

Let’s walk through how to calculate and draw the perfect back neckline depth.

 Back Neckline Depth Formula

A commonly used formula in patternmaking for the back neckline depth is:

 Back neckline depth = Neck circumference ÷ 12

This creates a subtle, curved neckline that’s not too tight and allows natural shoulder movement. You can always adjust the depth slightly based on personal preference.

 Example:

Neck circumference = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 12 = 3.16 cm

You can round it to 3 cm (1.2 in) for ease of drawing and cutting.

This is a classic depth for the back neckline on tank tops, blouses, and dresses.

How to Draw It:

• On your back bodice draft, start at the top-left corner (center back).
• Measure horizontally along the shoulder line — mark the neck width (e.g., 8.6 cm / 3.4 in from the formula in the previous step).
• From that same corner point, measure vertically downward — mark the neck depth (e.g., 3 cm / 1.2 in).
• Use a French curve or freehand to connect these two points with a smooth, rounded curve — this is your back neckline.

 Tip: Keep the back neckline soft and shallow. A depth of 2.5–3.5 cm (1–1.4 in) works beautifully for most sleeveless tops. Avoid going too deep unless you want an open-back style. This ensures the neckline sits comfortably around your neck without feeling restrictive or pulling backward — especially helpful when wearing tie-side or wrap-style tops.

Step 4: Drawing the Shoulder Drop (Shoulder Slope)

The shoulder drop (also called shoulder slope) determines how your shoulder line angles down from the neck toward the armhole. It’s a crucial detail that ensures your garment sits naturally on the body — just like real shoulders do.

 Quick Formula for Shoulder Drop

Here’s a simple formula commonly used in beginner pattern drafting:

 Shoulder drop = Shoulder width ÷ 10 – 0.5 cm

This accounts for the average slope of human shoulders — slightly rounded, not flat.

 Example:

Shoulder width = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 10 = 3.8 cm

3.8 – 0.5 = 3.3 cm (1.3 in)

 So your shoulder drop is 3.3 cm — this will give the shoulder a natural slope.

 Alternative Method (Standard Slope Rule)

If you don’t have your shoulder width or want a quick guide, you can use these general values:

Body Type	Recommended Drop
Narrow/sloped	2.5–3 cm (1–1.2 in)
Average/regular	3–3.5 cm (1.2–1.4 in)
Broad/athletic	3.5–4 cm (1.4–1.6 in)

Use this table if you’re working with a pattern for others or don’t have full shoulder measurements.

 How to Draw It on Your Bodice:

• Start on your shoulder line at the neckline edge.
• From that point, measure downward vertically by the amount of shoulder drop (e.g., 3.3 cm / 1.3 in).
• At the same time, measure horizontally from the neck toward the shoulder width mark (e.g., 8.6 cm).
• Connect the two points with a straight diagonal line — this is your sloping shoulder seam.
• Later, your armhole curve will begin at the end of this shoulder slope.

 Tip: Getting the shoulder slope right is especially important for sleeveless tops. A too-flat slope may create gaping or wrinkling at the armhole, while a too-steep slope might distort the neckline.

Step 5: Calculating the Armhole Depth

The armhole depth is one of the most important measurements in sleeveless tops. If it’s too deep, your bra might show. If it’s too shallow, your top might feel tight or cut into your underarm.

Let’s draft it perfectly using a fast, beginner-friendly formula.

 Quick Formula for Armhole Depth

 Armhole depth = Bust circumference ÷ 4

This method gives you a balanced depth that works well for sleeveless tops, especially when working with bust darts.

 Example:

Bust circumference = 96 cm (37.8 in)

96 ÷ 4 = 24 cm (9.4 in)

 This value (24 cm) is your back armhole depth. It works for both the back and front bodice, though you can lower the front slightly (by 1–1.5 cm) for a more comfortable cut.

 Alternate Method: Using a Standard Table

Some patternmakers also use this general guide based on body height:

Height	Standard Armhole Depth
150–155 cm	19–20 cm (7.5–7.9 in)
156–165 cm	20–21 cm (7.9–8.3 in)
166–175 cm	22–24 cm (8.7–9.4 in)
176+ cm	24–25.5 cm (9.4–10 in)

But if you’re working with your own bust measurement, the “bust ÷ 4” rule is more precise and personalized.

How to Mark the Armhole Depth:

• From the shoulder line (already drawn), measure vertically downward the armhole depth you calculated —example 24 cm (9.4 in).
• Draw a horizontal guideline at the bottom of this vertical line — this is your chest line.
• Later, you’ll draw the armhole curve from the shoulder point to the chest line, blending it smoothly.

 Tip: Want a more relaxed fit? Add 0.5–1 cm of extra depth. Want a snugger armhole for a polished look? Reduce by 0.5 cm. Test your ideal fit using scrap fabric or muslin before sewing with your final material.

Step 6: Drawing the Bust Line

The bust line is a horizontal guideline that helps you position darts and shape the bodice perfectly around your bust. It runs roughly across the fullest part of your chest.

 How to Calculate the Bust Line Length

Use your full bust measurement and divide it by 4, because we’re drafting a quarter of the bodice. Then add some ease — extra room for comfort and movement.

 Bust line length = (Bust circumference ÷ 4) + ease

 Example:

Bust circumference = 96 cm (37.8 in)

96 ÷ 4 = 24 cm (9.45 in)

Add ease: 0.5 cm (0.2 in) or 1 cm (0.4 in)

Total bust line = 24.5 cm (9.65 in) or 25 cm (9.85 in)

How to Draw the Bust Line:

• From the armhole line (vertical line marking armhole depth), draw a horizontal line that equals your total bust line length —example, 25 cm (9.85 in).
• This line will extend from the side seam toward the center front/back depending on whether you’re drafting front or back bodice.
• This bust line acts as a reference for placing bust darts and shaping the side seams.

 Tip: Add ease according to your fabric choice — woven fabrics usually need more ease (1 cm), while knits may require less.

 Step 7: Drawing the Back Armhole Curve

Now it’s time to draw the back armhole — a gentle curve that connects the shoulder slope to the side seam at the bust line. A well-shaped armhole is crucial for comfort and movement, especially in sleeveless tops. Let’s do it step by step!

 How to Draft the Back Armhole:

• Start with the diagonal shoulder slope you’ve just drawn.
• From the end point of the shoulder slope, draw a straight vertical line down to the bust line. This is the initial guide for your armhole curve.
• Find the halfway point on this vertical line — this is the center of your armhole depth.
• From that midpoint, draw a horizontal line extending outward by 1 cm to 1.5 cm (0.4–0.6 in). This point helps to shape the curve smoothly.

 Example:

Let’s say your vertical armhole depth line is 24 cm (9.45 in)-3.3 shoulder drop =20.7 cm . The halfway point is 10.3 cm down from the shoulder slope. From there, draw a line 1.5 cm (0.6 in) to the inside.

 Now Draw the Curve:

• Use a French curve, hip curve, or freehand to connect:
• Start at the end of your shoulder slope
• Pass through the horizontal mark at the center of the armhole depth
• End at the bust line (side seam)
• This creates a natural armhole that follows the curve of your back and underarm.

 Alternate Methods for Shaping Armholes:

• Use a ready-made pattern as a guide: trace its armhole onto your draft.
• Fold a well-fitting top in half and place it on your draft to trace the curve.
• Use a flexible ruler to shape and test curves before drawing.

 Tip: Keep your back armhole slightly shallower and straighter than the front one. The front armhole  usually dips deeper to allow for bust volume and arm movement.

 Step 8: Drawing the Waistline and Side Seam (Back Bodice)

You’re almost done drafting the back bodice! Now it’s time to draw the waistline (hem line) and connect it to the bust line, creating the side seam — a gentle line that defines the silhouette of your top.

 How to Calculate the Waistline Width

We use the waist circumference divided by 4 (since you’re working on ¼ of the pattern), and add some ease for comfort.

 Waistline width = Waist circumference ÷ 4 + ease

 Example:

Waist circumference = 68 cm (26.8 in)

68 ÷ 4 = 17 cm (6.7 in)

Add ease: +1 cm (0.4 in)

→ Total = 18 cm (7.1 in)

This is how wide your pattern should be at the bottom edge (waist/hem) on the back piece.

 How to Draw It:

• From the center back (bottom corner), draw a horizontal line that measures your total waistline width (e.g., 18 cm / 7.1 in).
• This is the waistline / hem line of your back bodice.
• Find the end of your bust line (at the side seam).
• Use a ruler or curved ruler to connect the end of the waistline to the bust line — this is your side seam.
• You can make it slightly curved for a more natural silhouette, or keep it straight for a looser fit.

 Tip: Want a more fitted waist? Reduce ease or add back darts later. Want a looser, flowy silhouette? Add more ease (up to 2 cm / 0.8 in).

Step 9: Finalizing the Back Bodice – Seam Allowances & Grainline

You’ve now finished the main shape of your back bodice! Before cutting the fabric, you need to finalize your pattern by adding essential construction elements: seam allowances, grainline, and notches.

Add Seam Allowances:

Add seam allowances all around your pattern to ensure there’s enough fabric to sew the pieces together. Use a ruler to measure and draw them around all outer edges.

Seam Edge	Recommended Allowance
Shoulder seam	1 cm (0.4 in)
Armhole curve	1 cm (0.4 in)
Side seam	1 cm (0.4 in)
Waist/hem line	2 cm (0.8 in)
Center back (on fold)	0 cm – this is placed on fabric fold

Draw dashed lines around your pattern for seam allowances so you know where to cut.

Step 10: Drafting the Front Bodice – Base Rectangle with Bust Dart Width

Now let’s move on to the front bodice of your tie-side tank top!

To begin, we’ll draft the base rectangle — just like we did for the back — but this time we’ll include extra space to accommodate the bust dart for shaping.

 Base Length for the Front Bodice

 Front bodice length = Back bodice length + Bust dart width

Why? When you add a bust dart, it “eats” some vertical length to shape the fabric over the bust. To compensate, we must add that height back so the side seams match.

 Formula:

 Front length = Back length + (Bust dart width ÷ 2)

 Example:

Back bodice length = 45 cm (17.7 in)

Planned bust dart width = 3 cm (1.2 in)

→ 3 ÷ 2 = 1.5 cm (0.6 in)

 Front bodice length = 45 + 1.5 = 46.5 cm (18.3 in)

This ensures that when the dart is sewn and “folds out” 1.5 cm of fabric, the front and back will align perfectly at the side seam.

 How to Draw the Base Rectangle (Front):

• Draw a vertical line the height of your front bodice: → example, 46.5 cm (18.3 in)
• From the top, draw a horizontal shoulder line equal to half shoulder width (same as back) → example, 19 cm (7.5 in)
• This is your base rectangle for the front bodice, ready for shaping the neckline, armhole, dart, and wrap.

 Tip: If you’re drafting directly on fabric, mark a vertical center front line and build the rest of the bodice from there. This helps keep your pattern symmetrical.

Step 11: Draw the Front  Shoulder Width Line

Example:

Measured shoulder width: 38 cm (15 inches)

38 cm ÷ 2 = 19 cm (7.5 inches)

Draw a horizontal line that’s 19 cm (7.5 in) long. This line represents the top edge of your bodice — from center front (or center back) to shoulder point.

Step 12: Drawing the Front Neckline Width

The front neckline width is the horizontal distance from the center front to where the neckline curve begins sloping toward the shoulder. This measurement helps shape a comfortable and flattering neckline.

 Formula for Front Neckline Width

 Front neckline width = Neck circumference ÷ 5 + 1 cm

This formula is the same as for the back neckline — most patterns keep the width consistent front and back for balance and symmetry.

 Example:

Neck circumference = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 5 = 7.6 cm

7.6 + 1 = 8.6 cm (3.4 in)

 Front neckline width = 8.6 cm (3.4 in)

How to Draw It:

• On the shoulder line of your front bodice, starting at the center front, measure horizontally and mark 8.6 cm (3.4 in).
• This point marks the edge of your neckline before it transitions into the shoulder seam.
• Later, you’ll connect this width to the neckline depth with a smooth curve.

 Tip: You can slightly increase the width (by 0.5–1 cm) if you want a more open neckline, especially in summer styles or for layering with bralettes.

Step 13: Drawing the Front Neckline Depth

Unlike the back, the front neckline is typically much deeper, especially in wrap-style or tie-front tank tops. This ensures the front overlaps nicely and flatters the chest without restricting movement.

 Formula for Front Neckline Depth

 Front neckline depth = Neck circumference ÷ 2 + 1–2 cm

This formula gives a balanced scoop or slight V, and is perfect for wrap tops — not too revealing, but feminine and breathable.

 Example:

Neck circumference = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 2 = 19 cm

19 + 1 = 20 cm (7.9 in)

 Front neckline depth = 20 cm (7.9 in)

How to Draw It:

• From the center front point, measure vertically downward and mark 20 cm (7.9 in).
• Now connect the neckline width point (from Step 12) to this new depth point with a smooth curve:
• Use a French curve, hip curve, or draw freehand.
• For a wrap-style neckline, you can extend this into a soft diagonal that blends into the wrap placket.

 Tip: For wrap tops, you can even deepen the neckline to 22–24 cm (8.7–9.4 in) if you want more chest exposure or plan to wear a tank underneath.

Step 14: Drawing the Front Shoulder Drop

The front shoulder drop (or front shoulder slope) is just as important as the back. It creates the natural slant from the neckline to the shoulder edge, allowing the top to sit smoothly on the body and align with the back piece. Although similar, the front slope is usually slightly deeper than the back to accommodate the bust and create a better fit in the front bodice.

 Formula for Front Shoulder Drop

Front shoulder drop = Shoulder width ÷ 10

You can also add +0.2 to 0.5 cm (0.1–0.2 in) more than the back slope for better front shaping.

 Example:

Shoulder width = 38 cm (15 in)

38 ÷ 10 = 3.8 cm (1.5 in)

→ Use full 3.8 cm or even 4 cm (1.6 in) if the back drop was 3.3 cm

 Front shoulder drop = 3.8–4 cm (1.5–1.6 in)

 How to Draw It:

• On the front shoulder line (starting at the neckline), measure 3.8–4 cm downward vertically.
• From the same neckline point, measure horizontally toward the shoulder width point (e.g., 8.6 cm).
• Connect these two points with a slanted line — this is your front shoulder seam.
• This line should mirror the back shoulder line in length to ensure proper joining at the shoulder seam later.

 Tip: Use a ruler to make sure the shoulder seam length on the front and back bodices are equal — if they differ slightly due to curve shapes, you can adjust the back slightly or add interfacing support.

Step 15: How to Mark the Front Armhole Depth

The front armhole depth is slightly deeper than the back to allow for more comfort and natural shaping around the bust and underarm. This step helps define your chest line, which you’ll later use to draw the armhole curve and position the bust dart.

 How to Calculate It:

 Front armhole depth = Back armhole depth – 2 cm (0.8 in)

This small adjustment creates a better fit in sleeveless tops and wrap styles, helping avoid tightness under the arms.

 Example:

Back armhole depth = 24 cm (9.4 in)

24 – 2 = 22 cm (8.6 in)

 Your front armhole depth = 22 cm (8.6 in)

 How to Mark the Front Armhole Depth:

• From the end of the shoulder slope, measure vertically downward and mark 22 cm (8.6 in).
• Draw a horizontal line from that point — this is your chest line (bust line).
• Later, you’ll use this to shape the armhole curve and place the bust dart.

 Step 16: Drawing the Front Bust Line with Ease

The bust line on the front bodice is critical — it must have just the right amount of ease to ensure the top fits comfortably and doesn’t feel tight across the chest.

 How to Calculate Bust Line Width with Ease

Use your full bust measurement and divide it by 4 (since you’re drafting ¼ of the bodice). Then add bust ease depending on your cup size.

Bust Cup Size	Recommended Ease
AA–A	0.5–1 cm (0.2–0.4 in)
B–C	1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in)
D+	2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in)

This gives your top breathing room and prevents gaping or pulling.

 Example:

Bust circumference = 96 cm (37.8 in)

96 ÷ 4 = 24 cm

Ease = 1.5 cm (for cup B/C) → 24 + 1.5 = 25.5 cm (10 in)

Draw your front bust line with a total length of 25.5 cm (10 in)

 How to Draw It:

• From the armhole depth line, draw a horizontal line that equals your calculated bust line width.
• This line should run from the center front to the side seam.
• Mark the bust point about 8–10 cm from the center front (or based on your bust apex position) — you’ll use this later for the dart.

 Tip: For fitted or semi-fitted tops, less ease looks sleeker. For a casual or floaty tank, add more ease — up to 3 cm (1.2 in).

Step 17: Drawing the Front Armhole Curve

The front armhole is shaped differently from the back: it’s typically 2 cm deeper to allow more mobility, especially around the bust and underarm. Let’s walk through how to draw it step by step.

 Adjusting the Armhole Curve

You’ve already drawn the shoulder drop and bust line. Now we’ll shape the armhole between these two points.

How to Draw the Front Armhole:

• Measure the vertical line between the end of the shoulder slope and the bust line at the side seam.

Example: if it’s 22 cm (9.4 in)

• Find the midpoint of that line: 11 cm (4.7 in)
• From the midpoint, go inward by 2 cm (0.8 in) — mark this new point slightly inside the vertical line.

Now draw a smooth curve:

• Start from the shoulder point
• Pass through the 2 cm inward point
• End at the side seam at the bust line
• Use a French curve, armhole ruler, or draw it gently by hand.

 Tip: The front armhole should look slightly more curved (more “scooped”) than the back. This allows space for the bust and prevents tightness under the arms.

Step 18: Drafting the Front Waistline and Side Seam

The waistline on the front bodice defines where the top will hug or flow around your natural waist. Along with the waistline, drafting the side seam shapes the silhouette from bust to waist.

 How to Calculate the Front Waistline Width

 Front waistline width = Waist circumference ÷ 4 + ease

Adding ease ensures comfortable movement and a flattering fit, especially in sleeveless and fitted tops.

 Example:

Waist circumference = 68 cm (26.8 in)

68 ÷ 4 = 17 cm (6.7 in)

Ease = 1 cm (0.4 in) (adjust depending on waist shape and preference)

→ Total waistline width = 18 cm (7.1 in)

 How to Draw It:

• From the center front bottom edge (hem), draw a horizontal line measuring the total waistline width — example, 18 cm (7.1 in).
• At the same time, locate the end of your front bust line (side seam).
• Use a ruler or a slight curve to connect the waistline end with the bust line end — this forms the front side seam.
• Adjust the curve gently to reflect your natural waist-to-bust shape.

Step 19: Drafting the Front Wrap Placket

The wrap placket is an extended front panel that allows your top to overlap and tie at the side, creating the classic wrap-style look and adjustable fit.

 How to Calculate the Width of the Wrap Placket

A common rule of thumb is to add 10 cm (4 in) to the front bodice width for the wrap extension. This width ensures enough fabric to overlap comfortably and create the tie.

 Wrap placket width = 10 cm (4 in) (adjust if you want a wider or narrower wrap)

How to Draw the Wrap Placket:

• On your front bodice draft, locate the center front hem line.
• From this point, draw a vertical line upward measuring 10 cm (4 in).
• At the neckline (front neckline), draw a horizontal line 10 cm (4 in) outward — parallel to the shoulder line.
• Connect the top of this horizontal line to the bottom of the vertical line with a smooth diagonal line — this forms your wrap placket edge.

Redraw or adjust your front neckline curve so it blends smoothly into the new wrap placket edge for a flattering neckline shape.

 Example:

If your front bodice length is 46.5 cm (18.3 in), add the 10 cm (4 in) placket width starting from the center front.

The placket will run the entire length of the front from hem to neckline.

 Tip: You can adjust the width of the placket depending on your fabric’s thickness and the desired look — thinner fabrics might need narrower plackets, thicker fabrics wider. Mark placement for ties or buttons on the placket once sewn.

Step 20: Drafting the Bust Dart on the Front Bodice (Positioning and Shaping)

The bust dart shapes the front bodice to fit smoothly over the bust curve, adding contour and avoiding fabric pulling or gaping. Here’s how to position and draft it accurately.

1 Mini Step: Marking the Bust Point

• Measure from the neck base (where the neck meets the shoulder) straight down to the bust apex (bust point) on your body.

Example: 26–28 cm (10.2–11 in)

• Transfer this measurement vertically down from the neck base on your front bodice draft and mark the bust point with a dot.

2 Mini Step : Measuring the Bust Point to Side Seam

• Measure horizontally from the bust point to the side seam on your body or draft.
• Subtract 2 cm (0.8 in) from this measurement to give some shaping room.
• This accounts for dart intake.

 3 Mini Step : Calculating the Bust Dart Width

The bust dart width is the amount of fabric “taken in” by the dart to contour the bust.

Your favorite formula:

 Bust dart width = Full bust measurement ÷ 24

Example:

Full bust = 96 cm (37.8 in)

96 ÷ 24 = 4 cm (1.6 in)

 Alternative Bust Dart Width Guidelines by Cup Size:

Cup Size	Dart Width Range
AA–A	2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in)
B–C	3–5 cm (1.2–2 in)
D+	4–6 cm (1.6–2.4 in)

Use wider darts for larger busts or more fitted garments.

4 Mini Step: Drawing the Bust Dart

• On the horizontal bust line (across the bust point), measure 2 cm (0.8 in) towards the side seam from the bust point — mark this point.
• From this point, draw a line perpendicular to the bust line inward towards the dart width — example, 4 cm (1.6 in).
• This vertical line is the dart width.
• Now connect the dart width end back to the bust point with two dart legs:

Lower dart leg:

From dart width end, draw a diagonal line to the bust point.

Upper dart leg:

• From bust point, draw a line of the same length upward, ending approximately -1 cm (0.4 in) inward the armhole line.
• Connect the end of the upper dart leg to the dart width end with a smooth curve or straight line.

 Tips for Dart Shaping:

• The dart legs should be equal length to keep symmetry.
• You can slightly curve the dart legs for a softer fit.
• The dart apex (point) should never be cut through — mark it with a dot.

Watch the Video Tutorial : Side Tie Tank Top Pattern Making

Prefer watching over reading? I’ve got you covered! For all visual learners—or anyone who just enjoys seeing things come to life—I’ve included a detailed step-by-step video showing exactly how to draft the pattern for this side tie tank. It walks you through every measurement, line, and curve so you can follow along with ease, even if you’re brand new to pattern drafting. Scroll down or head over to the video section to watch and draft with me!

Make sure to give a thumbs up, leave a comment, and hit that subscribe button on my channel to get more sewing tutorials. Don’t forget to share your results with me on Instagram or Facebook. I’m really excited to see what you come up with!

Ready Side Tie Tank Top Pattern!

And that’s it—your very own side tie tank top pattern, drafted with your own hands and ready to sew! Isn’t it amazing what you can create with just a few measurements, a pencil, and some paper?

I hope this easy pattern drafting guide has shown you just how simple and satisfying it can be to make your own patterns. Whether you’re completely new to drafting or just dipping your toes in, you’re building skills that will grow with every project. The more you draft, the more confident you’ll become—and before you know it, you’ll be designing your dream wardrobe.

This side tie tank is part of a bigger summer sewing series here on Sparrow Refashion, so stay tuned—there’s more breezy, beginner-friendly fashion coming your way soon.

If you make your own version, I’d love to see it! Tag me or leave a comment so we can all cheer each other on. Until next time—happy drafting and even happier sewing!

In this post, you have learned how to draft your own side tie tank.

This post has affiliate links * Affiliate Link. This means that if you click on the link and purchase an item, I will receive a small percentage of your purchase (at no extra cost to you)