Free Skort Sewing Pattern in 10 Sizes Photos & Video

In this post, you will learn how to sew a skort.

Some sewing projects look wonderful in photos but become slightly annoying the moment you try to sit down, bend over or walk outside on a windy day.

This is not one of those projects.

From the front, it looks like a playful wrap mini skirt. Underneath, however, there is a comfortable pair of shorts doing all the practical work. You can move freely, sit comfortably and forget about constantly checking whether your skirt is still behaving itself.

That is the quiet genius of a skort.

This DIY skort has a comfortable elastic waistband, an overlapping skirt panel at the front and two long side ties that let you adjust the look. It is cute enough to wear with a fitted top and sandals, but practical enough for walking, traveling, cycling or simply surviving a busy summer day.

And because a clever sewing project should not begin with an expensive pattern, I also created a free printable skort sewing pattern in 10 sizes.

The pattern is available in both A4 and US Letter formats for my blog subscribers. Subscribing is completely free.

Watch the Skort Video Tutorial

Prefer to sew along with me? This complete skort video tutorial shows how I prepare the waist ties, position the wrap panel, construct the shorts and insert the elastic waistband. You can watch the entire process first or pause at each step while you sew.

Free Skort Sewing Pattern

The free PDF pattern includes 10 nested sizes and is designed for printing at home.

You will receive:

• 10 pattern sizes
• A4 PDF format
• US Letter PDF format
• Separate front and back shorts pieces
• One front skirt overlay
• Two adjustable waist ties
• Seam allowances included
• A beginner-friendly elastic waistband
• Step-by-step sewing instructions in this post

The free skort sewing pattern is available to blog subscribers at the end of the post. Subscribing is free, and after signing up you will receive access to the pattern.

When printing, select:

• Actual Size
• 100% scale
• Do not select “Fit to Page”
• Print the test square first and measure it before printing the remaining pages

Choosing the correct print settings is important. Even a small scaling change can affect the waist, rise and leg opening of the finished skort.

Skort Pattern Details at a Glance

Before we look at fabric choices and sewing instructions, here is a quick overview of the project. These details will help you decide whether this free skort sewing pattern is suitable for your skill level and wardrobe.

Because there is no zipper, button placket or fitted waistband, this DIY skort is much less intimidating than it may first appear. Most of the construction uses straight seams, simple edge finishing and one elastic casing.

Best Fabrics for Sewing a Skort

The fabric you choose will change both the appearance and the movement of your finished skort. A crisp cotton will create a more structured skirt panel, while rayon or viscose will make the front overlay softer and more fluid.

For this free skort sewing pattern, choose a light to medium-weight woven fabric that is comfortable against the skin and strong enough for shorts.

For the easiest first version, I recommend cotton poplin, chambray, linen blend or lightweight twill. These fabrics stay in place while cutting and pressing, which makes the skirt overlay and elastic casing much easier to control.

Avoid very heavy canvas, upholstery fabric, thick denim or stiff fabric that creates bulky side seams. Very sheer fabric may also require lining because the shorts are meant to provide comfortable coverage.

Highly stretchy knit fabric is not recommended for this version unless you are comfortable adapting woven sewing patterns and stabilizing the waistband.

How Much Fabric Do I Need for a Skort?

The amount of fabric required depends on the pattern size, fabric width, print direction and whether your fabric needs pattern matching.

The estimates below include fabric for the front and back shorts, the skirt overlay and both waist ties. They are deliberately practical rather than extremely tight, so you have a little room for straightening the fabric and arranging the pattern pieces.

These fabric requirements are a useful starting point for a standard, non-directional fabric. Before buying or cutting expensive material, print your size and arrange the pattern pieces within your chosen fabric width.

Add approximately 20-30 cm (8-12 in) if your fabric has:

• A large print repeat
• Stripes or checks that need matching
• A one-way design
• Nap, such as corduroy or velvet
• A border print
• Noticeable shrinkage

The skirt panel is the most visible part of the garment, so take a moment to check how the print will sit across the front before cutting.

Which Elastic Is Best for a Skort Waistband?

The waistband is made with a casing, so you do not need to stretch and sew the elastic directly to the fabric. However, the type of elastic still matters.

For this skort, use elastic that is approximately 3-3.5 cm (1¼-1⅜ in) wide.

A medium-firm knitted elastic or non-roll elastic is usually the best choice for an elastic waist skort. It should stretch comfortably without feeling thin or flimsy.

Before inserting the elastic, wrap it around your waist and gently test the fit. Different elastic types have different levels of stretch, so the same measurement can feel tighter or looser depending on the elastic.

Supplies and Tools

To sew your skort, you will need:

• Free PDF skort sewing pattern
• Light to medium-weight woven fabric
• 3-3.5 cm (1¼-1⅜ in) wide elastic
• Matching all-purpose thread
• Sewing machine
• Universal sewing machine needle
• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
• Pins or sewing clips
• Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk
• Clear ruler
• Measuring tape
• Safety pin or elastic bodkin
• Iron and ironing board
• Zigzag stitch, overlock stitch or serger for finishing raw edges

For most cotton, linen and rayon fabrics, a universal needle in size 70/10 or 80/12 should work well. Choose the needle according to the weight and density of your fabric.

Before You Cut the Fabric

Prewash, dry and press your fabric using the same method you plan to use for the finished skort.

This step may feel unexciting, but it prevents the finished garment from shrinking after the first wash. Linen, cotton and rayon fabrics can all change noticeably during washing.

After pressing the fabric:

1. Check the grainline.
2. Fold or arrange the fabric as shown in the pattern layout.
3. Place the pattern pieces parallel to the selvage.
4. Pin or weigh the pieces securely.
5. Transfer all notches and placement markings.
6. Mark the front and back pieces if the shape is similar.

Do not skip the placement marks located 9 cm (3½ in) below the upper edge. These marks show where the skirt overlay and ties will meet the side seams.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Cut the following pieces:

Make sure that the front and back shorts pieces are mirrored. You should have one left and one right piece rather than two identical pieces facing the same direction.

The seam allowance is 1 cm (⅜ in) unless another measurement is marked on the pattern.

How to Sew a Skort Step by Step

Before sewing, place all the pieces in front of you and identify the front, back, right side and wrong side of the fabric.

A small piece of masking tape marked “front” or “back” can save a surprising amount of seam-ripping later, especially when working with plain fabric that looks similar on both sides.

Step 1: Sew the First Waist Tie

Fold one waist tie in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other.

Align the long raw edges and pin them together.

Sew along the long edge using a 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance. Sew across one short end, but leave the other short end open. The open end will later be sewn into the skort side seam.

Trim the seam allowance at the sewn corner to remove bulk. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Turn the tie right side out using a loop turner, safety pin, knitting needle or another blunt turning tool.

Gently shape the sewn corner and press the tie flat.

Topstitching is optional. You can stitch approximately 2-3 mm (⅛ in) from the edges if you want a crisper, more structured finish.

Step 2: Sew the Second Waist Tie

Repeat the same process for the second tie:

1. Fold it lengthwise with right sides together.
2. Sew the long edge and one short end.
3. Trim the corner.
4. Turn the tie right side out.
5. Press it flat.

Your two waist ties are now ready.

Set them aside, preferably somewhere visible. Ties have a mysterious talent for disappearing under fabric scraps exactly when you need them.

Step 3: Finish the Skirt Overlay Edges

Lay the skirt overlay flat with the wrong side facing up.

Finish the raw edges that will remain visible:

• The upper edge
• The free center or front edge
• The lower hem

You can finish these raw edges using:

• A zigzag stitch
• An overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine
• A serger
• An overcasting foot

Finishing the raw edges first helps prevent fraying and makes the narrow hem easier to control.

Step 4: Hem the Skirt Overlay

Turn each finished edge 1 cm (⅜ in) toward the wrong side.

Press carefully.

Pin or clip the folded edges in place, then stitch close to the finished inner edge.

Take your time around any sharp sections. Reduce the stitch length slightly if necessary and stop with the needle down whenever you need to adjust the fabric.

Press the finished skirt overlay once more.

The skirt portion of the skort is now complete and ready to be attached to the shorts.

Step 5: Sew the Front and Back Crotch Seam

Place the two front shorts pieces right sides together.

Align the curved center front crotch seam and pin or clip it in place.

Sew the center front seam using a 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance.

Finish the raw seam allowances together using a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch or serger.

Press the seam allowance gently to one side.

Avoid stretching the curved edge while sewing and pressing. Let the fabric follow its natural shape rather than pulling it flat.

Step 6: Mark the Skirt Attachment Points

Open the assembled shorts front and lay it flat with the right side facing up.

Using a ruler, measure 9 cm (3½ in) down from the upper waist edge along each side seam.

Mark this point on both the left and right sides using tailor’s chalk or a removable fabric marker.

These two marks indicate the upper attachment points for the skirt overlay and waist ties.

Measure both sides separately rather than folding the front in half. This will help keep the skirt panel level and prevent one side from sitting higher than the other.

Step 7: Position the Skirt Overlay

Place the skirt overlay over the shorts front with the right side facing up.

Position each upper side of the skirt panel at the corresponding 9 cm (3½ in) mark.

Align the raw side edges of the skirt overlay with the raw side edges of the shorts front.

The finished part of the skirt should extend across the front of the shorts. Follow the placement markings and notches included on the pattern to position the overlap correctly.

Pin the skirt panel securely to the shorts front at both side seams.

Keep the center of the skirt overlay smooth and make sure it has not become twisted.

Step 8: Add the Waist Ties

Place one finished waist tie at each upper skirt attachment point.

The open raw end of each tie should align with the raw side seam edge. The finished length of the tie should extend inward across the shorts, away from the seam.

Pin the first tie in place at one side.

Repeat on the opposite side with the second tie.

Check that:

• Both ties are positioned at the same height.
• The finished ends point toward the center of the garment.
• The ties are not twisted.
• The ties are safely away from the remaining side seam stitching.

You may baste the ties and skirt overlay to the shorts front using a seam allowance slightly smaller than 1 cm (⅜ in). Basting is optional, but it makes the layered side seams much easier to sew accurately.

Step 9: Add the Back Shorts Piece

Place the assembled back shorts over the front with right sides together.

The wrong side of the back shorts should now be facing you.

The skirt overlay and waist ties will be sandwiched safely between the front and back shorts pieces.

Align the front and back side seams.

Pin through all the layers:

• Front shorts
• Skirt overlay
• Waist tie
• Back shorts

Before sewing, pull the loose lengths of both ties toward the center of the garment so they cannot accidentally become caught farther down in the side seams.

Step 10: Sew the Side Seams

Sew both side seams using a 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance.

Go slowly when sewing across the thicker areas containing the skirt overlay and ties. You may need to use the hand wheel for the first few stitches if the seam becomes bulky.

Finish the raw side seam allowances using a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch or serger.

Press the side seams toward the back.

Turn the garment right side out briefly and check that:

• The skirt panel is attached evenly.
• Both ties are secure.
• Neither tie is twisted.
• The skirt overlay hangs smoothly.
• The side seams are sitting at the same height.

It is much easier to correct the layers now than after sewing the waistband.

Step 11: Sew the Inner Leg Seams

Turn the skort wrong side out again.

Match the front and back inner leg edges with right sides together.

Pin the inner leg seam of the first leg and sew it using a 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance.

Repeat for the second leg.

Depending on the pattern construction, you may be able to sew the inner leg edge as one continuous seam from one leg opening, through the lower crotch and down to the opposite leg opening.

Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch, overlock stitch or serger.

Press the seams carefully.

Step 12: Finish the Shorts Leg Openings

Finish the raw lower edges of both shorts legs.

Turn the hem allowance toward the wrong side according to the marking on the pattern. Press it in place.

Pin and stitch around each leg opening, keeping the stitching an even distance from the folded edge.

Press the finished hems.

Try not to stretch the curved leg openings while sewing. If your fabric begins to ripple, reduce the presser-foot pressure if your machine allows it and press the hem with steam after stitching.

Step 13: Prepare the Waistband Casing

Keep the garment wrong side out.

Make sure the skirt overlay and both waist ties are hanging away from the upper edge. You do not want to catch them in the waistband casing.

Turn the upper raw edge 1 cm (⅜ in) toward the wrong side.

Press the fold all the way around the waist.

Next, fold the upper edge down by another 4 cm (1⅝ in) to create the elastic casing.

Pin or clip the casing around the inside of the shorts.

Check that the casing width remains consistent and that the elastic will fit comfortably inside.

Most importantly, check underneath the pinned casing to make sure you have not accidentally caught:

• The skirt overlay
• Either waist tie
• A fold of the shorts
• The opposite side of the garment

Step 14: Sew the Elastic Casing

Stitch around the lower folded edge of the waistband casing.

Sew close to the folded edge, keeping the casing wide enough for the elastic to move through it.

Leave an opening approximately 5 cm (2 in) wide.

This opening will be used to insert the elastic.

Backstitch securely at both ends of the opening so the stitches do not loosen while you pull the elastic through the casing.

Step 15: Measure and Cut the Elastic

Start by cutting the elastic to approximately the same length as your natural waist circumference.

Because elastic stretch varies, test it around your waist before joining the ends.

It should feel secure without digging into your body. Remember that the elastic ends will overlap slightly when sewn together, which will make the finished loop a little smaller.

For a firmer fit, shorten the elastic by approximately 2-3 cm (¾-1.2 in). Do not automatically remove a large amount without testing, especially when using firm woven or non-roll elastic.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic.

You can secure the opposite end to the fabric near the casing opening with another safety pin. This prevents the entire elastic from disappearing into the waistband, which is a small sewing disaster nobody needs.

Step 16: Insert the Elastic

Feed the safety pin through the opening and begin guiding the elastic around the waistband casing.

Move the fabric over the safety pin a little at a time.

Continue until the safety pin comes back out through the opening.

Keep hold of both elastic ends.

Spread the gathers evenly around the waist and check that the elastic has not twisted inside the casing.

A simple way to check is to feel the entire waistband with your fingers. The elastic should remain flat all the way around.

Step 17: Join the Elastic Ends

Overlap the raw elastic ends by approximately 2-2.5 cm (¾-1 in).

Make sure the elastic is completely flat and not twisted.

Sew the overlapped ends together using a rectangle with a diagonal cross, or several rows of secure zigzag stitching.

Gently pull the waistband fabric away from the joined elastic and allow the elastic to slide fully inside the casing.

Try on the skort before closing the opening if you would like to check the final waist fit.

Step 18: Close the Waistband Opening

Fold the casing opening back into position.

Stitch across the opening, following the original waistband stitching line.

Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Stretch the waistband gently several times to distribute the gathers evenly.

Step 19: Secure the Elastic at the Side Seams

To stop the elastic from twisting inside the waistband, stitch vertically through the waistband and elastic at each side seam.

Follow the existing side seam line so the additional stitching remains almost invisible.

Use a short straight stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch and sew through all waistband layers.

Do not stitch around the entire elastic. Two short vertical rows at the side seams are enough to keep it in place while still allowing the waistband to stretch comfortably.

Step 20: Attach the Side Tie

Take the tie you sewed earlier and set aside. Tuck the raw open edges neatly inside the end of the tie, then press them flat.

Position this finished end at the upper corner of the skort’s skirt overlay and pin it securely in place. Stitch across the end of the tie, sewing close to the edge to attach it firmly.

Give the area one final press, and the side tie is finished!

Give the entire skort one final press.

Your handmade wrap skort is finished.

If you like the comfort of the shorts underneath but want your next project to look more like shorts again, try my free ruffle hem shorts pattern in 10 sizes.

A Few Sewing Tips That Make a Big Difference

Press After Every Major Seam

Pressing is not just something you do when the garment is finished. It shapes the seams, reduces bulk and helps the skort hang correctly.

Press rather than aggressively sliding the iron across the fabric, especially when working with rayon or curved seams.

Baste the Layered Side Seams

The side seams contain several layers, including the shorts front, skirt overlay, ties and shorts back.

A quick line of basting stitches keeps the pieces from shifting and makes the final seam much cleaner.

Keep the Ties Away From the Machine

Before sewing the side seams or waistband, roll the ties loosely and pin them near the center of the shorts.

This prevents them from slipping underneath the presser foot and being accidentally sewn into another seam.

Check the Skirt Overlay Before Finishing Seams

Turn the garment right side out after sewing the side seams but before finishing the raw edges.

If the panel is uneven or a tie is twisted, you can correct it without removing overlock stitching.

Do Not Stretch the Waist Edge While Sewing

Stretching the top edge can create a wavy waistband. Let the feed dogs move the fabric naturally and support the garment without pulling it.

How to Customize Your DIY Skort

Once you have made the original version, the pattern is easy to personalize.

Make the Skirt Overlay Longer

Add length to the lower edge of the skirt panel, keeping the side attachment points unchanged.

Remember to add the same amount of extra fabric when calculating your fabric requirement.

Make the Shorts Longer

Use the lengthen and shorten line on the front and back shorts pieces, or extend the lower edges evenly.

A slightly longer version works beautifully in linen or soft twill.

Add Pockets

Add side seam pockets before attaching the skirt panel and sewing the side seams.

Because the skirt overlay is attached at the side seam, carefully check the pocket placement so the pocket opening remains easy to reach.

Create Contrast Ties

Cut the waist ties from a coordinating fabric, gingham, stripe or leftover contrast fabric.

This is a lovely way to use smaller fabric scraps without making the finished garment look overly busy.

Add Topstitching

Topstitch the ties, skirt overlay and waistband for a more structured, ready-to-wear finish.

Use regular matching thread for a subtle result or contrasting thread for a casual denim-inspired look.

Common Skort Sewing Problems and Solutions

Even a beginner-friendly skort can occasionally decide to develop its own personality. Most problems, however, are easy to fix.

Checking each stage before moving to the next is much faster than unpicking several completed seams. In particular, test the skirt placement, tie direction and elastic fit before permanently closing the waistband.

How to Style Your Handmade Skort

This skort is easy to dress up or down. Because the wrap panel and waist ties already add detail, pair it with a simple top and comfortable accessories.

For a coordinated handmade outfit, wear it with my side-tie tank top or a denim halter top. A loose halter top also works beautifully for hot summer days—just tuck it slightly into the waistband so the ties remain visible.

For a softer look, style the skort with my babydoll top. On cooler evenings, add a lightweight lace bolero shrug.

Finish the outfit with sandals, white sneakers, sunglasses and a small shoulder bag. Short, fitted or lightly tucked-in tops work best because they show off the skort’s elastic waist and wrap detail.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is This Free Skort Sewing Pattern Suitable for Beginners?

Yes. This beginner-friendly skort pattern uses simple seams, an elastic waistband and no zipper, buttons or buttonholes. Basting the skirt overlay and waist ties before sewing the side seams makes the project easier.

Is the Skort Pattern Really Free?

Yes. The free PDF skort sewing pattern is available to blog subscribers, and subscribing is completely free. It includes 10 sizes in both US Letter and A4 formats.

What Size Should I Sew?

Choose your size using the body measurement chart included with the pattern. For a skort, the full hip measurement is especially important.

When your waist and hip fall into different sizes, blend gradually between the size lines.

Can I Sew the Skort From Stretch Fabric?

This skort pattern is designed for woven fabric. For the best results, use cotton poplin, linen blend, chambray or lightweight twill.

A stable knit may work, but very stretchy jersey can change the fit and make the waistband or seams ripple.

Can I Use Linen?

Yes. Linen is an excellent fabric for a summer skort. Pure linen creates a crisp wrap panel, while a linen-viscose blend gives the skort a softer drape.

Choose fabric that is opaque enough for the built-in shorts.

Can I Sew This Skort Without a Serger?

Yes. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch on a regular sewing machine. Pinking shears may also work for stable, non-fraying fabric.

What Elastic Should I Use?

Use knitted or non-roll elastic approximately 3–3.5 cm (1¼–1⅜ inches) wide.

The waistband casing is made by folding the top edge under by 1 cm (⅜ inch) and then folding it down by 4 cm (1⅝ inches).

How Long Should the Elastic Be?

Begin with elastic close to your natural waist measurement and test it around your body.

Depending on the firmness of the elastic, you may need to shorten it by approximately 2–5 cm (¾–2 inches).

Why Is the Elastic Stitched at the Side Seams?

Short vertical stitches at the side seams help prevent the waistband elastic from twisting or rolling while still allowing it to stretch comfortably.

Can I Make the Skort Without Waist Ties?

Yes. You can leave off the waist ties and attach only the wrap-style skirt overlay.

The ties are optional, but they emphasize the wrap-skirt look and add an adjustable design detail.

Should I Prewash the Fabric?

Yes. Prewash and dry cotton, linen, rayon or viscose before cutting.

This helps prevent the finished skort from shrinking after its first wash.

Your Handmade Skort Is Ready

You did not simply sew a pair of shorts and hide them under a skirt.

You made a tiny piece of wardrobe engineering.

It looks soft and playful from the front, but underneath it is practical, secure and ready for real life. It can survive windy weather, long walks, sitting on the grass, climbing stairs and all the other ordinary things that clothing should allow us to do without negotiation.

Tie the straps into a bow, add your favorite top and put your hands in the air without worrying about your skirt.

That is the whole point of a skort.

And once you have made one, you may discover that choosing fabric for the second version begins almost immediately.

Download the free skort sewing pattern in 10 sizes, print it in A4 or US Letter format and save this tutorial so you can return to each step while sewing.

Subscribing to receive the pattern is completely free.

Happy sewing!

Free Skort Sewing Pattern for my Subscribers