I have a weakness for sewing projects that look much more complicated than they actually are, and these ruffle hem shorts are exactly that kind of project. Without the ruffle, they are basically a very simple pair of elastic-waist shorts-no zipper, no buttons and no complicated waistband. Then you add that gathered piece at the bottom and suddenly they look completely different. Much cuter, in my opinion.
I made the free PDF ruffle hem shorts pattern in 10 sizes, so you can skip drafting everything from scratch and go straight to choosing your fabric and sewing. The pattern is made from just three main pieces: front, back and ruffle, with two of each cut from fabric.
I also attach the ruffles while the shorts are still mostly flat. I find this much easier than closing the legs first and then trying to gather and attach a small fabric circle while turning everything around the sewing machine. You can add side seam pockets too, and I’ll show you exactly when to do that.
For a first pair, I would choose cotton poplin, cotton lawn, chambray or a lightweight linen blend—something that gathers nicely but does not fight you every five seconds. And keep your iron nearby, because this is one of those projects where pressing quietly does half of the work.
Let’s sew the shorts.
Watch the Ruffle Hem Shorts Video Tutorial
If you prefer seeing the sewing steps rather than only reading them, I also made a full video tutorial for these ruffle hem shorts.
You can watch how I gather and attach the ruffles, sew the crotch and inseam, make the elastic waistband casing and finish the shorts from start to finish. Sometimes one little detail makes much more sense once you actually see the fabric under the sewing machine.
I would keep this post open while you sew and use the video whenever you want to see one of the steps in motion.
Ruffle Hem Shorts at a Glance
Before we start cutting, here is a quick overview of what you are making.
The construction is quite straightforward. We sew the side seams first, gather and attach the ruffles while the shorts are still open, close the center seams and inseam, and finish everything with an elastic waistband.
If gathering fabric is the part that makes you nervous, don’t worry. I’ll show you how I divide the ruffle into sections before gathering it, which makes the fullness much easier to control.
Free Ruffle Hem Shorts Pattern in 10 Sizes for My Subscribers
I created the free PDF sewing pattern for these ruffle shorts in 10 sizes, so you do not need to draft the front and back pieces yourself. Choose your size using the measurement chart, then print the pattern at 100% or Actual Size. Never select “Fit to Page.”
Before printing all of the pages, print the page with the test square first and measure it. If this is your first time using one of my PDF patterns, I have a simple guide to printing and assembling PDF sewing patterns where I show exactly how I do it.
Once the pattern is printed and assembled, compare your measurements with the size chart before cutting. With elastic-waist shorts, I pay particular attention to the full hip measurement because the waist can easily be adjusted with elastic, but the shorts still need enough room to pull comfortably over the hips.
Free pattern is at the end of the post.
Best Fabrics for Ruffle Hem Shorts
Fabric makes quite a difference with this pattern because it changes both the look of the shorts and the way the ruffle falls. A crisp cotton gives you a more defined, bouncy ruffle, while rayon or viscose creates something much softer and more fluid.
For a first pair, I would probably choose cotton poplin or another lightweight woven cotton. It stays where you put it while sewing, presses nicely and gathers without becoming difficult to control.
| Fabric | How It Behaves | Finished Look | Beginner Friendly? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton poplin | Stable and easy to press | Crisp, visible ruffle | Excellent |
| Cotton lawn | Light and soft | Delicate, softer ruffle | Yes |
| Chambray | Soft but stable | Casual and relaxed | Yes |
| Linen blend | Breathable and slightly textured | Relaxed, natural look | Yes |
| Rayon/viscose challis | Fluid and drapey | Soft, flowing ruffle | Better after a little practice |
| Lightweight denim | More structured | Strong, defined ruffle | Yes, if the denim is light |
I would avoid very heavy denim, canvas and upholstery-weight fabrics because a gathered seam can become bulky surprisingly quickly. Very slippery satin and extremely stretchy knits would not be my first choice for this version either. Could you make them work? Probably. Would I choose them for my first pair? Absolutely not.
What You Need
You do not need anything unusual for this project. Apart from your printed pattern and main fabric, gather the following supplies before you start sewing:
- Main fabric
- 2.5 cm | 1.0 in wide elastic
- Matching thread
- Sewing machine
- Zigzag stitch or overlocker/serger
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Pins or sewing clips
- Safety pin or elastic bodkin
- Measuring tape
- Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk
- Iron and ironing board
If you want to customize your shorts, you can also prepare pocket fabric, narrow lace or another lightweight decorative trim for the ruffle. Check out my favourite sewing tools I use for my projects.
Measurements to Check Before Choosing Your Size
Because this is a printed pattern, you do not need to calculate the front and back pieces yourself. You should still take your waist and full hip measurements before choosing a size, and it is also worth checking the finished length if you want your shorts shorter or longer.
| Measurement | How to Take It |
|---|---|
| Waist circumference | Measure around the place where you want the elastic waistband to sit. Keep the tape comfortable, not tight. |
| Full hip circumference | Measure around the fullest part of your hips and seat, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. |
| Desired shorts length | Measure from your waistband position down to where you want the finished ruffle to end. |
For elastic-waist shorts, the full hip measurement is especially important. The waistband will stretch, but the body of the shorts still needs enough room to pass over your hips comfortably.
If your waist and hips fall into different sizes, I would choose the size that gives you enough room through the hips and adjust the elastic separately.
How to Calculate the Elastic Length
This is really the only measurement you need to calculate yourself. I do not automatically cut elastic using a fixed percentage of my waist measurement because different elastic can behave completely differently.
Some elastic is soft and stretches easily, while some is very firm. The easiest method is to wrap the actual elastic you are going to use around your waist where the shorts will sit, then gently tighten it until it feels secure but comfortable.
Use:
Elastic cut length = comfortable elastic measurement + 2 cm | 0.8 in overlap
For example, if the elastic feels comfortable around your waist at 72 cm | 28.3 in, add 2 cm | 0.8 in for the overlap. Your final elastic length would be 74 cm | 29.1 in.
That small amount of extra length gives you enough elastic to overlap and sew the ends securely.
How Much Fabric Do You Need?
The exact amount of fabric depends on your pattern size, fabric width, ruffle size and whether your fabric has a directional print. This is why I do not like giving one universal yardage number for all 10 sizes, it can easily be misleading.
With 150 cm | 59 in wide fabric, your front and back pieces may fit next to each other. With 110 cm | 43 in wide fabric, those same pieces may need to sit in separate rows, which changes the total fabric length quite a lot.
The easiest way to estimate your fabric is to arrange all of the pattern pieces within your actual fabric width. Remember that you need Front x 2, Back x 2 and Ruffle x 2.
Directional prints, large checks, stripes and fabrics with nap usually need a little extra fabric because all of the pieces have to face the correct direction.
Prepare Your Fabric
Prewash and dry your fabric the same way you plan to wash the finished shorts. Once it is dry, press it before cutting.
This step is easy to skip, but a wrinkled piece of fabric can change the shape of your pattern pieces more than you would expect, especially around curved areas like the crotch. Lay the fabric flat, make sure the grain is straight and then position your pattern pieces.
Cut the Ruffle Hem Shorts
Using the free PDF pattern, cut:
- Front – x 2, mirrored
- Back – x 2, mirrored
- Ruffle – x 2
Transfer all pattern markings before removing the paper pieces. Then take ten seconds to check that you really have one left and one right front and one left and one right back.
It sounds obvious until you cut two identical fronts. Ask sewing how I know these things.
Before You Start Sewing
Before sewing the first seam, check that your front and back pieces are mirrored, your ruffles are cut correctly and all notches have been transferred. I also like to test my stitch on a fabric scrap and keep the iron beside the machine so I do not start convincing myself that pressing can wait until later.
This is also a good moment to mark the center and quarter points of each ruffle. We will match those points to the shorts hem later, and it makes distributing the gathers much easier.
How to Sew Ruffle Hem Shorts Step by Step
Step 1: Optional ! Add Pockets Before Sewing the Side Seams
Pockets are completely optional, but if you want them, this is the best time to add them while the side seams are still open. It is much easier than trying to add pockets once the shorts have already been assembled.
You can use the same method I show in my side seam pocket tutorial with a free pocket pattern. Sew the pockets first, then come back here and continue with the shorts.
If you are skipping pockets, go straight to the next step.
Step 2: Sew the Shorts Side Seams
Take one front piece and its matching back piece and place them right sides together. Match the side seam, pin or clip the layers, and sew 1 cm | 0.4 in from the raw edge.
Finish the raw seam allowance with your overlocker/serger or a regular zigzag stitch. You definitely do not need a serger for this project, and if you are sewing everything on a regular machine, I have four easy ways to finish raw fabric edges without a serger that work well for these shorts too.
Repeat with the second front and back pieces. You should now have two open shorts sections.
Open each section with the right side facing up and press the side seam flat first. Then press the seam allowance toward the back. Attaching the ruffle to a properly pressed edge is much easier than trying to work with a seam that is still curling around.
Step 3: Sew the Gathering Stitches
Set your sewing machine to a long straight stitch and sew two parallel rows of gathering stitches along the top raw edge of the ruffle. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end, and leave long thread tails.
I prefer two rows instead of one because the gathers are easier to control and distribute evenly. The ruffle also tends to sit more neatly once it is attached.
If gathering is one of those sewing techniques that somehow ends with all the fabric bunched at one end, my beginner’s guide to gathering fabric goes through the method in much more detail. For these shorts, though, two rows of gathering stitches and a little patience are really all you need.
Repeat on the second ruffle.
Step 4: Gather the Ruffle to Match the Shorts Hem
Gently pull the bobbin threads and gather the top edge until the ruffle is the same width as the lower edge of the matching shorts section. Do not pull all of the fullness toward one end.
Instead, match the center and quarter marks first, then adjust the gathers in each section separately. This is much easier than trying to control the whole ruffle at once and helps keep the fullness even all the way across.
Step 5: Attach the Ruffle
Place the gathered ruffle against the shorts with right sides together, matching the top raw edge of the ruffle with the bottom raw edge of the shorts. Match the center and quarter points first, then pin the ruffle in place while adjusting the gathers between those points.
Sew 1 cm | 0.4 in from the raw edge. Take your time here and check that no small folds are caught underneath the presser foot. If you see one, stop, lift the presser foot, smooth the fabric and continue.
Finish the raw seam allowance with a zigzag stitch or overlocker, then turn the ruffle downward and press the seam carefully with the seam allowance pointing toward the shorts. Topstitch close to the seam on the shorts side to hold everything in place and help the ruffle hang neatly.
Repeat the same process with the second shorts section.
Press the ruffle seam allowance up toward the shorts. Always press gathered seams upward for a cleaner, neater finish.
Step 6: Sew the Front and Back Center Seams
Place the two shorts sections right sides together and match the front crotch curves. Pin and sew 1 cm | 0.4 in from the edge.
Now match the two back crotch curves and sew them the same way. Finish the raw edges and press the seams.
Before moving on, check that the front is joined to the front and the back is joined to the back. This is a much nicer moment to discover a mistake than after the inseam has been sewn.
Step 7: Sew the Inseam and Crotch
With the shorts still right sides together, bring the inseam edges together and carefully match the center crotch seams. Pin from one leg opening, through the center crotch and toward the other leg opening.
Sew the inseam using a 1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance, then finish the raw edge and gently press the seam.
Take a little extra care when matching the center crotch seams. If they shift, one leg can twist slightly forward or backward and the shorts will not hang as nicely.
Step 8: Make the Elastic Waistband Casing
Finish the raw top edge of the fabric with a zigzag stitch, serger, or overlock stitch.
Next, fold the top edge 3 cm | 1.2 in to the wrong side to create the elastic waistband casing.
Stitch close to the lower folded edge, but leave an opening of approximately 5 cm | 2.0 in. We will use this opening to insert the elastic.
After sewing, press the waistband casing flat.
Step 9: Insert the Elastic
Cut your 2.5 cm | 1.0 in wide elastic using the comfortable-waist method from earlier. Attach a safety pin or elastic bodkin to one end and feed it through the casing.
Keep hold of the other end so it does not disappear inside. Everyone who has sewn enough elastic waistbands has lost one end inside a casing at least once, and it is a very specific kind of annoyance.
Once the elastic comes all the way around, check that it has not twisted. Overlap the ends by 2 cm | 0.8 in and sew them together securely. I like to sew a small rectangle through both layers and then add another line through the center.
Pull the elastic back inside the casing and stitch the 5 cm | 2.0 in opening closed.
Step 10: Stop the Elastic from Twisting
Spread the waistband gathers evenly, then stitch vertically through the waistband and elastic at both side seams. These tiny securing stitches help stop the elastic from twisting around inside the casing after washing and wearing.
They are barely noticeable, but they make a surprisingly big difference. Press the waistband carefully without stretching it.
Step 11: Finish the Bottom of the Ruffle
The only unfinished edge should now be the bottom of the ruffle. Turn the raw edge narrowly toward the wrong side, press, fold it once more so the raw edge is enclosed and stitch close to the inner folded edge.
Keep this hem narrow. A deep hem can make the ruffle look stiff and stop it from moving naturally.
You can also finish the bottom with narrow lace, decorative trim, a rolled hem, decorative machine stitching or a narrow serged edge. I especially like narrow lace with this pattern because it adds another detail without making the ruffle too heavy.
Seam Allowances and Important Measurements
Here are the main measurements from the tutorial in one place so you do not have to keep scrolling around with fabric in one hand.
| Section | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Side seam allowance | 1 cm | 0.4 in |
| Ruffle attachment seam | 1 cm | 0.4 in |
| Front and back center seams | 1 cm | 0.4 in |
| Inseam | 1 cm | 0.4 in |
| First waistband fold | 1 cm | 0.4 in |
| Second waistband fold | 3 cm | 1.2 in |
| Elastic width | 2.5 cm | 1.0 in |
| Elastic overlap | 2 cm | 0.8 in |
| Waistband opening | 5 cm | 2.0 in |
The most important thing is to keep the 1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance consistent. One slightly wider seam does not seem like much, but several slightly wider seams can noticeably change the finished fit.
How to Get an Even Ruffle
Gathering itself is easy, but getting the gathers to look evenly random is strangely not always easy. The simplest trick is to divide both the ruffle and the shorts hem into four equal sections before pulling the threads.
Match those points first and then gather each section separately until it fits. This stops all of the fullness from slowly migrating toward one side while you pin.
I also leave the gathering stitches in place until the ruffle has been securely sewn to the shorts. Once the final seam is finished, you can remove any visible gathering threads.
Fit Tips for Ruffle Hem Shorts
If the Shorts Feel Tight Across the Hips
For elastic-waist shorts, the hip measurement is usually more important than the waist measurement when choosing your pattern size. You can shorten the elastic very easily, but adding extra room through the hips after everything has been sewn is considerably less fun.
If you are between sizes, choose the size that gives you enough room through the full hip.
If the Waistband Feels Too Loose
Shorten the elastic rather than immediately changing the whole pattern. Try the actual elastic around your body before sewing the ends together because that gives you a much better idea of the finished fit than relying only on a formula.
If the Waistband Feels Uncomfortable
The elastic may be too short, too firm or simply not stretchy enough. Different types of elastic can behave completely differently even when they have exactly the same width, which is why I prefer fitting the actual elastic around my waist.
If the Ruffle Sticks Out Too Much
This is often more about fabric than sewing. Crisp cotton naturally creates more volume, while rayon, viscose, cotton lawn or a lightweight linen blend will give you a softer ruffle.
If the Ruffle Looks Too Flat
You can make the ruffle fuller by increasing the length of the ruffle piece. You do not necessarily need to make it deeper.
A useful starting point for a softer ruffle is approximately 1.5 times the leg opening, while a much fuller ruffle can be closer to 2 times the leg opening. Crisp fabrics usually need less fullness than very soft fabrics to create a noticeable ruffle.
Common Problems and Easy Fixes
| Problem | Likely Cause | Easy Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ruffle gathers are uneven | Fullness was pulled toward one area | Divide the ruffle and hem into quarters before gathering |
| Ruffle seam looks bulky | Fabric is heavy or gathers are trapped in the seam | Use lighter fabric and distribute the gathers evenly |
| Elastic twists inside waistband | Elastic was not secured | Stitch vertically through the elastic at both side seams |
| Center crotch does not match | Front/back pieces were joined incorrectly | Check front-to-front and back-to-back before sewing the inseam |
| Fabric puckers near crotch | Seam was stretched while sewing | Sew without pulling and press gently |
| Shorts feel tight over hips | Pattern size is too small through the hip | Choose your size primarily from the full hip measurement |
| Ruffle hem looks stiff | Hem is too deep | Use a narrow double-fold or rolled hem |
Most of these problems are much easier to prevent than repair, especially uneven gathering. Five extra pins now can save quite a lot of seam-ripper time later.
Can I Add Pockets to These Ruffle Shorts?
Yes, and if you ask me, pockets make almost everything better. Just remember to add them before sewing the side seams, while the front and back pieces are still easy to handle.
I use the same simple construction from my free side seam pocket pattern and tutorial, so you can add the pockets there and then return to this tutorial to finish the shorts.
Can I Sew These Shorts Without a Serger?
Absolutely. A regular sewing machine is enough for this project, and you can finish the raw seam allowances with a zigzag stitch.
If you want to try something a little neater, I put my favorite methods together in this guide to finishing raw edges without a serger.
Can I Make the Ruffle Fuller?
Yes. Increase the length of the ruffle piece rather than simply making it deeper.
For a soft ruffle, start with approximately 1.5 times the leg opening. For a much fuller version, you can go closer to 2 times the leg opening.
Just remember that a crisp cotton will look fuller with less gathering than a soft rayon or viscose.
Can I Leave the Ruffle Off?
You can, but remember that the ruffle is part of the finished length of these shorts. If you remove it completely, the shorts will become noticeably shorter.
If you want plain shorts with approximately the same finished length, extend the lower edge of the main front and back pattern pieces before cutting.
Can I Add Lace to the Ruffle?
Yes, and this is probably one of my favorite little changes for this pattern. You can sew narrow lace along the bottom instead of making a regular hem, or finish the ruffle normally and add lace just above the edge.
Keep the trim reasonably lightweight so the ruffle can still move naturally.
How I Would Style These Ruffle Hem Shorts
Because the ruffle already gives these shorts quite a lot of personality, I usually like to keep the top a little simpler. A fitted tank, halter or soft knit works really well because it lets the ruffle be the part you notice first.
For a really easy summer outfit, I would probably wear them with a simple top like the one from my side tie tank top tutorial. I especially like the idea of making both pieces from fabrics that work together without making them exactly the same, it gives you that handmade set feeling without looking too matchy.
Another combination I really like is soft ruffle shorts with something a little more structured on top. My denim halter top would be perfect for that. Floral, linen or soft cotton shorts with denim make the whole outfit feel a little less sweet and much easier to wear every day.
And I definitely would not put these shorts away as soon as summer ends. On cooler days, I would just add a cardigan like this easy one I made here, plus sneakers, loafers or ankle boots. With a simple fitted top underneath, the ruffle still stays visible and the whole outfit works really nicely for early fall.
When it gets colder, I would style them with tights and a jacket. Something like my quilted jacket would make the same shorts feel completely different and much more seasonal.
That is one of my favorite things about sewing my own clothes. One project does not really stay just one project. You start mixing the things you have made together, and suddenly a pair of little ruffle shorts becomes part of a whole handmade wardrobe.
Your Ruffle Hem Shorts Are Finished
Give everything one last press—the waistband, side seams, ruffle attachment seam and bottom hem. Do not flatten the gathers; just press the seams and edges and then shake the shorts out a little.
That is usually the moment when they stop looking like several pieces of fabric you have been arguing with all afternoon and finally look like actual shorts. And that little ruffle really does most of the magic.
This is exactly why I like simple sewing patterns so much. Once you understand the basic construction, you can make the next version look completely different without learning an entirely new pattern.
Make them in linen for something relaxed, try a tiny floral cotton, add pockets or narrow lace, use rayon for a really soft ruffle, or make the ruffle much fuller. Same basic pattern, completely different shorts.
What Could You Sew Next?
If you liked making these but want something more classic next time, my summer shorts free pattern and video tutorial is a good next project. That version uses clean French seams, so it is especially nice if you want the inside of your shorts to look really tidy.
Or maybe you do not feel like printing another pattern at all. In that case, you can sew shorts without a pattern using a few simple body measurements and drawing the pieces directly onto your fabric.
And if you want something that still has the comfort of shorts but looks completely different when you wear it, try my free skort sewing pattern in 10 sizes. It gives you shorts underneath with the look of a skirt on top.
I love having all of these versions because you can start with the kind of construction you already understand and simply change the detail that makes the next project interesting.
If you make these ruffle hem shorts, especially if you change the fabric, add pockets or play around with the fullness of the ruffle, I would genuinely love to see what you come up with.
Download your free pattern below, save the tutorial for later and have fun with it.
Happy sewing!
Free Ruffle Hem Shorts Sewing Pattern for My Subscribers
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