How to Sew Shorts Without a Pattern – Simple Tutorial

I have sewn quite a few pairs of shorts over the years, usually with a paper pattern somewhere underneath a ruler, a coffee mug and at least one piece of fabric I was certain I had put in a sensible place.

This time, we are skipping the paper pattern completely.

These relaxed elastic-waist shorts are drafted directly onto the fabric using your own measurements. There is no printing, taping or tracing, and each leg is cut as one complete piece with the outer side placed on the fold.

That also means there are no outer side seams to sew. A small gift from the sewing universe.

This is not a fitted trouser block. It is a simple pull-on shorts pattern with enough ease to pass comfortably over the hips and give you room to sit, walk and move.

I have also added a full video tutorial so you can watch the shape appear on the fabric before cutting. The drawing stage is much easier when you can pause the video and follow one line at a time.

Prefer working with a ready-made printable pattern? You can use my free summer shorts sewing pattern in sizes XS–4XL instead. And I also have a free ruffle hem shorts pattern in 10 sizes that you can simply print and sew.

Watch the Video Tutorial

The drafting stage is much easier to understand when you can see where each line begins and ends.

Pause the video after each drafting step and draw the same section on your own fabric before continuing.

Best Fabric for Shorts Drafted Directly on Fabric

A stable woven fabric is the easiest choice because it stays in place while you measure, draw and cut.

Fabric	Finished effect	Good for a first pair?
Cotton poplin	Crisp and lightweight	Yes
Linen or linen blend	Breathable and relaxed	Yes
Chambray	Casual, with a denim-like appearance	Yes
Seersucker	Light and airy	Yes
Double gauze	Soft and comfortable	Yes, but handle it gently
Rayon challis	Loose and flowing	Better after making a test pair

For your first version, I recommend cotton poplin, chambray or a linen blend. These fabrics are much less likely to shift while you are drawing the crotch curves.

Avoid heavy denim, thick canvas, slippery satin and stretchy jersey until you have tested the shape.

Prewash and press your fabric before cutting. Cotton and linen can shrink, and it is much better for that to happen before the fabric becomes shorts. The Sewing and Craft Alliance fabric-preparation guide also explains why preshrinking and checking colorfastness before cutting are useful.

What You Will Need

You will need:

• light- or medium-weight woven fabric;
• flat waistband elastic;
• flexible measuring tape;
• long ruler;
• curved ruler or French curve, if you have one;
• washable fabric marker or heat-erasable fabric pen;
• fabric scissors or rotary cutter;
• pins or sewing clips;
• matching thread;
• safety pin or elastic threader;
• sewing machine;
• iron and ironing board.

Use a marker that can be removed with water or heat because we will draw directly onto the fabric.

Always test it on a scrap first. A disappearing pen that suddenly develops permanent ambitions is not the design detail we are looking for.

Measurements You Need

Take these four body measurements:

Hip circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.

Waist circumference: Measure where you want the elastic waistband to sit.

Desired shorts length: Measure from the finished waistband position to the finished hem.

You will also need to know the width of your elastic.

For more help, see my complete guide on how to measure yourself for sewing and pattern drafting.

Example Measurements

The main example in this tutorial uses:

• Hip circumference: 98 cm | 38.6 in
• Desired shorts length: 35 cm | 13.8 in
• Elastic width: 3 cm | 1.2 in

For the rise example, I am using a sitting depth of:

26.5 cm | 10.4 in

After adding:

2 cm | 0.8 in

of ease, the finished rise depth is:

28.5 cm | 11.2 in

Use your own sitting-depth measurement when drafting your shorts.

Simple Shorts-Drafting Formulas

Pattern section	Formula	Example
Main rectangle width	Hips ÷ 4 + 4 cm	28.5 cm
Rise depth	Sitting depth + 2 cm	28.5 cm
Back crotch extension	Hips ÷ 8	Approximately 12 cm
Front crotch extension	Back extension ÷ 2	6 cm
Back waist raise	Add 3 cm	3 cm
Front waist drop	Lower by 1 cm	1 cm
Waistband extension	Elastic width + 1 cm	4 cm
Center and inseam allowance	Add 1 cm	1 cm
Hem allowance	Add 3 cm	3 cm

For the main rectangle:

98 cm ÷ 4 + 4 cm = 28.5 cm

The additional:

4 cm | 1.6 in

on each quarter gives the shorts a relaxed fit and enough room to pull over the hips.

What If You Cannot Measure Sitting Depth?

You can use this simple fallback formula:

Rise depth = Hip circumference ÷ 4 + 4 cm | 1.6 in

For 98 cm hips:

98 cm ÷ 4 + 4 cm = 28.5 cm

This works reasonably well for loose pull-on shorts, but the seated measurement is more personal and normally gives a better starting point.

How Much Fabric Do You Need?

We will prepare two fabric rectangles. Each rectangle becomes one complete leg.

Calculate the folded width:

Main rectangle width + back crotch extension + 1 cm seam allowance

For the example:

28.5 cm + 12 cm + 1 cm = 41.5 cm

Because the rectangle will be folded in half, double this amount:

41.5 cm × 2 = 83 cm

The full width of each rectangle is therefore:

83 cm | 32.7 in

Now calculate the height.

Leave approximately:

• 15 cm | 5.9 in above the finished waistline;
• 10 cm | 3.9 in below the finished hemline.

For shorts measuring 35 cm long:

35 cm + 15 cm + 10 cm = 60 cm

Each example rectangle measures approximately:

83 × 60 cm | 32.7 × 23.6 in

You need two rectangles.

For this size, approximately:

1.2 m | 1.3 yd

of fabric should be enough when the fabric measures either:

150 cm | 59 in

or:

110 cm | 43 in

wide.

Larger hip measurements, longer shorts, narrow fabric or directional prints may require additional fabric.

Prepare the Fabric Rectangles

Cut two rectangles using your calculated measurements.

Place both rectangles in the same direction, especially when working with:

• directional prints;
• checks;
• stripes;
• velvet;
• brushed fabric;
• fabric with a visible nap.

Fold each rectangle in half with the right sides together.

Match the edges and press the fold carefully.

The folded edge becomes the outer side of the shorts, so position the fold parallel to the fabric selvage and lengthwise grain.

Place the folded rectangle with the wrong side facing upward.

Begin drawing approximately:

• 15 cm | 5.9 in below the upper edge;
• 10 cm | 3.9 in above the lower edge.

Draft the larger back shape first. The smaller front shape will be marked inside it before cutting.

How to Draft the Shorts Directly on Fabric

Step 1: Draw the Main Shorts Rectangle

Use the pressed fabric fold as the outer side of the shorts.

Calculate the rectangle width:

Hip circumference ÷ 4 + 4 cm | 1.6 in

For the example:

98 cm ÷ 4 + 4 cm = 28.5 cm

Measure:

28.5 cm | 11.2 in

from the folded edge and draw a vertical line.

This is the center-front and center-back guide.

Mark the finished waistline near the top of the rectangle.

From the waistline, measure down your desired shorts length.

The example length is:

35 cm | 13.8 in

Draw the finished hemline.

The main rectangle now measures:

28.5 × 35 cm | 11.2 × 13.8 in

Step 2: Draw the Rise Line

Measure down from the finished waistline using:

Sitting depth + 2 cm | 0.8 in ease

For the example:

26.5 cm + 2 cm = 28.5 cm

Measure:

28.5 cm | 11.2 in

down from the waistline and draw a horizontal line.

This is the rise line.

Step 3: Draw the Back Crotch Extension

Use:

Back crotch extension = Hip circumference ÷ 8

For the example:

98 cm ÷ 8 = 12.25 cm

I round this to:

12 cm | 4.7 in

Extend the rise line outward from the center-back guide and mark the back crotch point.

Step 4: Draw the Back Inseam

Calculate the back hem point:

Back crotch extension − 1.5 cm | 0.6 in

For the example:

12 cm − 1.5 cm = 10.5 cm

At the hemline, measure:

10.5 cm | 4.1 in

outward from the center guide.

Connect this point to the back crotch point.

Draw a smooth back crotch curve from the crotch point into the center-back seam.

Avoid making a sharp hook. The curve should blend gradually into the vertical center-back line.

Step 5: Raise the Back Waist

At the center-back waistline, measure upward:

3 cm | 1.2 in

Connect this raised point to the original waistline at the folded outer side.

Use a very gentle curve.

The additional height gives the shorts more room over the seat and helps prevent the waistband from pulling downward when you sit.

Step 6: Draw the Front Crotch Extension

Use:

Front crotch extension = Back crotch extension ÷ 2

For the example:

12 cm ÷ 2 = 6 cm

Extend the rise line outward from the center-front guide by:

6 cm | 2.4 in

Mark the front crotch point.

Step 7: Draw the Front Inseam

Calculate the front hem point:

Front crotch extension − 1.5 cm | 0.6 in

For the example:

6 cm − 1.5 cm = 4.5 cm

At the hemline, measure:

4.5 cm | 1.8 in

outward from the center guide.

Connect this point to the front crotch extension.

Draw a smooth front crotch curve into the center-front line.

The front curve should be shorter and shallower than the back curve.

Step 8: Lower the Front Waist

At the center-front waistline, measure downward:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Connect this point smoothly to the original waistline at the folded side.

The front waist is slightly lower because the body normally needs more length over the seat than across the front.

Step 9: Draw the Extended Waistband

This version uses a simple fold-over elastic casing instead of a separate waistband.

Calculate the extension:

Elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in

For 3 cm elastic:

3 cm + 1 cm = 4 cm

Draw a:

4 cm | 1.6 in

extension above the shaped front and back waistlines.

Copy each waist shape upward rather than drawing one straight line across both sections.

Keep the curves gentle. A very strongly curved waist is more difficult to fold into a smooth casing. For more waistband options, see my guide to three easy elastic-waistband drafting methods.

Step 10: Add Seam and Hem Allowances

Add:

1 cm | 0.4 in

to the:

• center-front seam;
• center-back seam;
• front inseam;
• back inseam.

Do not add seam allowance along the folded outer side because there is no seam there.

Add:

3 cm | 1.2 in

below the finished hemline.

The waistband extension already includes the amount needed for the folded casing, so no additional allowance is required above it.

Not sure where seam allowances should be added? Read my full guide to understanding and adding seam allowance.

How to Cut the Shorts Pieces

Cut around the larger back outline while the fabric is still folded.

Cut through both layers.

Open the fabric and place it wrong side up.

On the front half only, trim along the marked:

• front crotch curve;
• front inseam;
• front waistline;
• front waistband extension.

Mark the front and back clearly before sewing. Once heat-erasable lines disappear, the two curves can suddenly start looking suspiciously similar.

Check the Pieces Before Sewing

Before taking the pieces to your sewing machine, check that:

• both front center seams match;
• both back center seams match;
• the front inseams are the same length;
• the back inseams are the same length;
• the front waist is lower than the back;
• the waistband extensions follow their waistlines;
• the two complete leg pieces are identical;
• the upper edge will pass comfortably over your hips.

The waist opening must fit over your hips before the elastic is added. Elastic can gather extra fabric, but it cannot persuade a too-small fabric opening to become larger.

How to Sew Elastic-Waist Shorts

Because the front and back are already connected at the folded outer side, the sewing is pleasantly simple.

Step 1: Sew the Center Front and Center Back

Place the two complete leg pieces with their right sides together.

Match and pin the two center-front edges.

Sew using a:

1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance

Next, match and sew the two center-back edges using the same allowance.

Finish the raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch or overcast stitch.

You do not need an overlocker for this project. My guide to four ways to finish raw edges without a serger will help you choose the best finish for your fabric.

Press the seams.

Step 2: Sew the Inseam

Arrange the shorts with the right sides together.

Match the inseam edges.

Pin from one leg hem, through the center crotch and down to the opposite leg hem.

Match the center-front and center-back seams carefully at the deepest part of the crotch.

Sew the entire inseam in one continuous line using a:

1 cm | 0.4 in seam allowance

For additional strength, sew a second line of stitching inside the seam allowance around the deepest part of the crotch.

Finish the raw edge and press the seam.

Turn the shorts right side out and check that both legs hang evenly.

Step 3: Sew the Elastic-Waistband Casing

At the upper edge, fold the fabric toward the wrong side by:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Press.

Fold it again by the width of your elastic.

For 3 cm elastic, make the second fold:

3 cm | 1.2 in

Press and pin around the waistband.

Stitch close to the lower folded edge, leaving an opening measuring approximately:

5 cm | 2 in

for inserting the elastic.

Step 4: Insert the Elastic

Use your waist measurement—not your hip measurement—to determine the elastic length.

Wrap the elastic around your waist where you want the shorts to sit.

Adjust it until it feels secure but comfortable.

Add:

2 cm | 0.8 in

for overlapping the ends.

Elastic can vary considerably, so testing it around your waist is more reliable than automatically subtracting the same amount every time.

Attach a safety pin or elastic threader to one end.

Thread the elastic through the casing, making sure it does not twist.

Overlap the ends by:

2 cm | 0.8 in

Sew the overlap securely with several rows of stitching.

Pull the joined elastic fully inside the casing.

Step 5: Close the Waistband

Stretch the waistband gently to distribute the gathers evenly.

Close the opening by sewing along the existing waistband stitching line.

To help stop the elastic from twisting, sew a short vertical line through the waistband and elastic at both folded outer-side positions.

Backstitch securely at the beginning and end.

Step 6: Hem the Shorts

Fold each lower edge toward the wrong side by:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Press.

Fold it again by:

2 cm | 0.8 in

Press and pin.

Stitch close to the upper folded edge.

Repeat on the second leg.

The completed hem allowance is:

3 cm | 1.2 in

Step 7: Give the Shorts a Final Press

Press the center seams, inseam, waistband and both hems.

Avoid leaving the hot iron directly on the elastic.

Try on the shorts and check that:

• the waistband feels comfortable;
• the back waist sits high enough;
• the crotch has enough depth;
• both legs are even;
• the elastic stays flat;
• you can sit and move comfortably.

Your shorts are finished.

Can You Add Pockets?

Yes, but there is one important detail.

These shorts do not have outer side seams, so you cannot add a traditional side-seam pocket in the usual way.

The simplest option is to add:

• a front patch pocket;
• two back patch pockets;
• a small phone pocket;
• a cargo-style pocket attached to the leg.

You can find several suitable ideas in my guide to 12 different types of pockets with free patterns.

For shorts with traditional side-seam or slash pockets, use my elastic-waist shorts pattern with pockets.

Quick Fit Troubleshooting

Problem	Adjustment for the next pair
Shorts feel tight around the hips	Add 1 cm to the quarter-hip width
Shorts feel much too loose	Reduce the added ease from 4 cm to 3 cm
Back waistband pulls downward	Add 1 cm to the center-back height
Crotch feels tight when sitting	Add 1–2 cm to the rise depth
Crotch hangs too low	Remove 1 cm from the rise depth
Front crotch feels loose	Shorten or reduce the front crotch curve slightly
Legs feel too narrow	Move the hem points outward
Waist opening barely passes over hips	Increase the main rectangle width

Make only one adjustment at a time.

It is tempting to change the rise, crotch curve, leg width and waistband all at once, but then you will have no idea which change actually helped.

Test the Draft Before Using Special Fabric

For your first pair, use inexpensive cotton, an old bedsheet or leftover woven fabric with a similar weight to your final material.

A test pair will show you the small changes no general formula can predict perfectly.

You may prefer:

• wider legs;
• more sitting depth;
• a higher back waist;
• less hip ease;
• a shorter front rise;
• a longer hem;
• a wider elastic waistband.

That does not mean the drafting method failed.

It means you are turning a simple starting formula into a shorts shape made for your own body.

Write the changes down immediately. “I will definitely remember that later” has already caused enough sewing-room mysteries.

Final Thoughts

Drafting directly onto fabric can feel slightly rebellious the first time, especially if you are used to carefully printing, assembling and tracing every pattern piece.

But this is a very practical method once you understand the basic shape.

You begin with two rectangles, add room for the hips, use your sitting depth to position the crotch and create one complete piece for each leg. After that, there are only three main seams, an elastic casing and two hems between you and a finished pair of shorts.

Make the first version in inexpensive fabric, take notes and then use the corrected measurements again. Once the draft fits you, you can turn it into pajama shorts, loose linen shorts, longer Bermuda shorts or even wide-leg lounge pants.

For more ideas, explore my collection of seven free shorts sewing patterns with video tutorials.

And yes, after making one pair, you may suddenly discover that every leftover piece of linen looks suspiciously like future shorts.