How to Draft a Simple Shorts Pattern in Any Size

Shorts patterns are one of those things that look much more complicated on paper than they actually are.

Mostly because of those strange crotch curves.

But when I draft shorts, I don’t start by trying to draw the finished pattern shape. I start with one rectangle. That’s it.

Then I divide it into a front and a back, add the crotch extensions, shape the waist, and a few lines later that slightly odd rectangle has turned into an actual shorts pattern.

For this tutorial, I’m using my own measurements in the examples, but you will replace them with yours. There is no standard size chart here, so you can use the same method to draft a simple shorts pattern for your own body.

This isn’t meant to be a fitted trouser block with darts, a zipper, and twenty-seven measurements. It’s a simple, relaxed pull-on shorts pattern that you can actually understand, test, adjust, and use again.

If you would rather skip making a paper pattern completely, I also have a How to Sew Shorts Without a Pattern – Simple Tutorial where I work directly from measurements to fabric. And if you’re sewing specifically for a man, my free men’s linen shorts sewing pattern gives you a ready-to-print option in 8 sizes with pockets, an elastic waist and drawstring.

This tutorial is a little different.

Here, we are making a proper reusable shorts blueprint on paper.

We’ll draw the front and back together first, trace them into separate pattern pieces, add seam allowances, and then sew a test version to check the fit.

And please keep that original blueprint once you get it right.

Because this one basic pattern can later become summer shorts, pajama shorts, lounge shorts, wide-leg shorts, paperbag shorts, or even the starting point for a simple pair of pants.

One rectangle is about to become surprisingly useful.

Watch the Shorts Pattern Drafting Video

If you would rather see the whole pattern take shape before drawing your own, watch the video below.

I show you how I start with the basic rectangle, divide it into the front and back, draw the crotch extensions, shape the waist, and turn the original draft into separate pattern pieces.

It is one of those projects that makes much more sense once you actually see the lines appearing on paper.

Watch the full video tutorial below, then keep this post open beside you for all the measurements and formulas while you draft your own pattern.

Simple Shorts Pattern at a Glance

Pattern Detail	Information
Style	Relaxed pull-on shorts
Drafting method	Front and back drawn inside one rectangle
Main measurements	Hip circumference and sitting crotch depth
Pattern pieces	Separate front and back after tracing
Best fabric	Light- to medium-weight woven fabric
Waistband	Extended or separate
Seam allowances	Added after tracing
Skill level	Beginner-friendly

This is a basic relaxed shorts pattern rather than a fitted trouser block.

The extra ease gives the shorts enough room to pass over the hips and lets you sit, walk, and move comfortably.

If you want a ready-made pattern instead of drafting one, you can also try my Summer Shorts Sewing Tutorial with Free Pattern and Video.

Best Fabrics for Your First Pair

For the first version, choose a stable woven fabric that is easy to cut, mark, sew, and press.

There is no prize for testing your first self-drafted pattern in slippery satin.

Fabric	Finished Effect
Cotton poplin	Crisp and lightweight
Linen blend	Relaxed and breathable
Chambray	Casual and easy to sew
Seersucker	Light and airy
Double gauze	Soft and comfortable
Rayon challis	Loose and flowing

For your first test pair, cotton poplin, chambray, or even an old cotton bedsheet will probably be the easiest to work with.

Once you know the pattern fits, you can move on to prettier fabric.

I would avoid very heavy, slippery, or highly stretchy fabrics until you have tested the basic pattern.

Pattern Drafting Tools

You don’t need an enormous collection of pattern-making tools for this.

You will need:

• pattern paper;
• a long ruler;
• a set square or quilting ruler;
• a flexible measuring tape;
• pencil and eraser;
• French curve, optional;
• paper scissors;
• transparent tracing paper;
• tracing wheel or hera marker, optional;
• narrow elastic or ribbon for marking the waist.

If you’re starting to build your pattern-making kit, you can see the sewing and pattern drafting tools I actually use here.

And white baking parchment works surprisingly well as tracing paper.

It’s inexpensive, slightly transparent, and much more useful than letting it live in the kitchen drawer until the end of time.

Measurements You Need

Before taking your measurements, tie a narrow piece of elastic around the position where you want the finished waistband to sit.

This gives you one clear reference line.

You need:

• Hip circumference: measure around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.
• Sitting crotch depth: measure vertically from the waistline to the chair while sitting.
• Desired shorts length: measure from the waistline to the finished hem.
• Elastic width: needed only if you want an extended elastic waistband.

If you’re not completely sure where or how to take your body measurements, start with my complete guide to measuring yourself for sewing and pattern drafting.

For the example in this tutorial, I am using:

Hip circumference: 98 cm | 38.6 in

Desired shorts length: 35 cm | 13.8 in

Elastic width: 3 cm | 1.2 in

For the rise in my example, I use the formula method shown below, which gives me:

28.5 cm | 11.2 in

You can use your actual sitting crotch depth instead if you prefer.

How to Measure Sitting Crotch Depth

This measurement is worth taking properly because it affects how the shorts sit through the crotch and seat.

Sit upright on a firm, flat chair.

Measure in a straight vertical line from the elastic marking your waist down to the chair seat.

Keep the measuring tape straight.

Do not curve it underneath your body or follow the shape of your hips.

You can use this sitting crotch depth to position the rise line on your pattern.

If you want to compare a few ways of finding this measurement, I have a separate beginner guide to measuring and drafting crotch depth.

You can also use the simple formula below if you prefer working from calculations.

Standard Shorts Pattern Formulas

Here are the main formulas I use for this simple shorts pattern.

Pattern Section	Formula	My Example
Full rectangle width	Hip circumference ÷ 2 + 4 cm | 1.6 in	98 ÷ 2 + 4 = 53 cm
Each front and back section	Full rectangle width ÷ 2	53 ÷ 2 = 26.5 cm
Rise length	Sitting crotch depth	Use your measurement
Alternative rise formula	Hip circumference ÷ 4 + 4 cm | 1.6 in	98 ÷ 4 + 4 = 28.5 cm
Back crotch extension	Hip circumference ÷ 8	98 ÷ 8 = 12.25 cm
Front crotch extension	Hip circumference ÷ 16	98 ÷ 16 = 6.125 cm
Back waist raise	Add 3 cm | 1.2 in	3 cm | 1.2 in
Front waist drop	Lower by 1 cm | 0.4 in	1 cm | 0.4 in
Optional waistband extension	Add 4 cm | 1.6 in	4 cm | 1.6 in

For my hips, the complete rectangle width is:

98 cm ÷ 2 + 4 cm = 53 cm

Now divide that rectangle equally between the front and back:

53 cm ÷ 2 = 26.5 cm

So each section measures:

26.5 cm | 10.4 in

My complete starting rectangle therefore measures:

53 cm × 35 cm | 20.9 in × 13.8 in

before adding an optional waistband extension and seam allowances.

It looks almost too simple at this stage.

That’s normal.

Optional Extra-Room Formula for Fuller Hips, Seat or Thighs

Bodies don’t suddenly start following a different pattern-drafting system after one particular clothing size.

So instead of treating this as a separate “XXL pattern,” I prefer thinking of it as an extra-room version.

If you want more room through the hips, seat, tummy, or thighs, use the slightly more generous formulas below.

The drafting process itself stays exactly the same.

Pattern Section	Extra-Room Formula
Full rectangle width	Hip circumference ÷ 2 + 8 cm | 3.1 in
Each front and back section	Full rectangle width ÷ 2
Rise length	Sitting crotch depth + 4 cm | 1.6 in
Alternative rise formula	Hip circumference ÷ 4 + 6 cm | 2.4 in
Back crotch extension	Hip circumference ÷ 8 + 1.5 cm | 0.6 in
Front crotch extension	Hip circumference ÷ 16
Back waist raise	Add 4.5 cm | 1.8 in
Front waist drop	Lower by 1–2 cm | 0.4–0.8 in
Optional waistband extension	Elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in

For example, if your hips measure:

120 cm | 47.2 in

the roomier rectangle width becomes:

120 cm ÷ 2 + 8 cm = 68 cm

The complete rectangle width is therefore:

68 cm | 26.8 in

Divide it equally:

68 cm ÷ 2 = 34 cm

The front and back sections are each:

34 cm | 13.4 in

This gives you more room, but I still strongly recommend sewing a test pair before cutting into your favorite fabric.

Actually, I recommend that for every new self-drafted pattern.

Cheap cotton first. Beautiful fabric later.

Write Down Your Measurements First

Before drawing anything, write down all your finished calculations.

It saves a surprising amount of ruler-moving, calculator-checking, and wondering where that number from five minutes ago disappeared.

For my standard example:

Pattern Section	My Measurement
Hip circumference	98 cm | 38.6 in
Complete rectangle width	53 cm | 20.9 in
Front section width	26.5 cm | 10.4 in
Back section width	26.5 cm | 10.4 in
Shorts length	35 cm | 13.8 in
Rise length	28.5 cm | 11.2 in
Back crotch extension	12 cm | 4.7 in
Back hem extension	10.5 cm | 4.1 in
Front crotch extension	6 cm | 2.4 in
Front hem extension	4.5 cm | 1.8 in
Back waist raise	3 cm | 1.2 in
Front waist drop	1 cm | 0.4 in
Optional waistband extension	4 cm | 1.6 in

Once these numbers are sitting next to you on the table, the actual drafting becomes much easier.

How to Draft a Simple Shorts Pattern

Now we can finally start drawing.

The front and back are first drafted together inside one large rectangle.

For this tutorial:

Front = left side

Back = right side

The vertical line dividing the rectangle becomes the shared side-seam position.

Step 1: Draw the Main Rectangle

Start by calculating the rectangle width:

Rectangle width = Hip circumference ÷ 2 + 4 cm | 1.6 in

For my hips:

98 cm ÷ 2 + 4 cm = 53 cm

My desired shorts length is:

35 cm | 13.8 in

So I draw a rectangle measuring:

53 cm × 35 cm | 20.9 in × 13.8 in

You can replace:

35 cm | 13.8 in

with whatever finished shorts length you want.

The top horizontal line is your waistline.

The bottom horizontal line is your finished hemline.

Don’t add the hem allowance yet.

We’ll do that after tracing the finished pattern pieces.

Step 2: Divide the Rectangle into Front and Back

Divide the rectangle width exactly in half.

For me:

53 cm ÷ 2 = 26.5 cm

Draw a vertical line through the center.

Label:

• the left section Front;
• the right section Back.

The center dividing line represents the side seam of both pattern pieces.

The left outside edge becomes the center-front line.

The right outside edge becomes the center-back line.

You now have the basic skeleton of both pattern pieces inside one rectangle.

Step 3: Draw the Rise Line

Next we need the rise line.

You can use your measured sitting crotch depth.

Or calculate it using:

Rise length = Hip circumference ÷ 4 + 4 cm | 1.6 in

For me:

98 cm ÷ 4 + 4 cm = 28.5 cm

Measure:

28.5 cm | 11.2 in

down from the waistline on both the front and back sides.

Connect the two marks with one straight horizontal line across the complete rectangle.

This is your rise line, also called the crotch line.

If this is the first time you’ve worked with crotch depth, my crotch depth drafting guide goes into much more detail about why this measurement matters.

Step 4: Draw the Back Crotch Extension

Start with the back section on the right.

Calculate:

Back crotch extension = Hip circumference ÷ 8

For me:

98 cm ÷ 8 = 12.25 cm

For this simple pattern, I round that measurement to:

12 cm | 4.7 in

From the center-back line, extend the rise line outward by:

12 cm | 4.7 in

Mark the end of the back crotch extension.

It will stick outside the original rectangle.

That is exactly what it should do.

Step 5: Draw the Back Hem Extension

Now subtract:

1.5 cm | 0.6 in

from the back crotch extension.

For me:

12 cm − 1.5 cm = 10.5 cm

At the finished hemline, extend outward from the center-back line by:

10.5 cm | 4.1 in

Connect the back crotch point to this new hem point.

This becomes the back inseam.

Now draw a smooth back crotch curve from the extension into the center-back line.

Try not to create a sharp hook.

The curve should blend gently into the straighter center-back section.

You can absolutely draw this by hand, but if curves are the part of pattern drafting that makes you want to quietly leave the room, a French curve helps.

I have a complete guide to using French curved rulers plus free printable rulers here.

Step 6: Raise the Back Waist

At the center-back waistline, measure upward:

3 cm | 1.2 in

Connect this raised point back to the original waistline at the center dividing line.

Remember that the center dividing line is the side-seam position.

You can draw this as a straight line or use a very gentle curve.

Raising the back waist gives more room over the seat and helps stop the waistband from pulling downward when you sit.

The back pattern is now drafted.

One half done.

Step 7: Draw the Front Crotch Extension

Now move over to the front section on the left.

Calculate:

Front crotch extension = Hip circumference ÷ 16

For me:

98 cm ÷ 16 = 6.125 cm

For this simple pattern, I round it to:

6 cm | 2.4 in

From the center-front line, extend the rise line outward by:

6 cm | 2.4 in

Mark the front crotch point.

You can already see that the front crotch extension is much shorter than the back one.

Step 8: Draw the Front Hem Extension

Subtract:

1.5 cm | 0.6 in

from the front crotch extension.

For me:

6 cm − 1.5 cm = 4.5 cm

At the finished hemline, extend outward from the center-front line by:

4.5 cm | 1.8 in

Connect the front crotch point to the new hem point.

This creates the front inseam.

Now draw a smooth, shallow front crotch curve into the center-front line.

The front curve should be shorter and shallower than the back curve.

Again, don’t worry about making it look like a professionally printed sewing pattern on the first attempt.

Smooth is more important than fancy.

Step 9: Lower the Front Waist

At the center-front waistline, measure downward:

1 cm | 0.4 in

Connect this point back to the original waistline at the center dividing line.

You can use a straight line or a very gentle curve.

The front pattern is now complete.

And that original rectangle suddenly looks considerably more like shorts.

Optional: Add an Extended Waistband

At this point, you can either make a separate waistband later or extend the front and back pattern pieces upward.

For my simple folded elastic waistband using:

3 cm | 1.2 in

elastic, I add:

4 cm | 1.6 in

above the shaped waistline.

Draw the front and back waistband extensions separately because the two waistlines have different shapes.

Follow the lowered front waistline on the front piece.

Follow the raised back waistline on the back piece.

Do not simply draw one straight line across the entire top of the original rectangle.

If you want more waistband choices, I have a separate tutorial showing 3 easy elastic waistband pattern-drafting methods.

Keep This as Your Shorts Blueprint

This part is important.

Do not cut the original drawing into separate front and back pieces.

Keep it intact.

This first draft is your basic shorts blueprint.

It contains both pattern sections and keeps all your original construction lines visible.

Place transparent paper over the blueprint and trace the front and back separately.

You can use:

• proper pattern tracing paper;
• white baking parchment;
• thin kraft paper;
• tracing paper and a tracing wheel;
• a hera marker to transfer the lines onto another sheet.

Trace all the important lines, including:

• waistline;
• side seam;
• center-front or center-back line;
• crotch curve;
• inseam;
• hemline;
• optional waistband extension.

Now you have separate front and back pattern pieces while keeping the original master draft untouched underneath.

This is exactly why I like working this way.

If you later want to change something, you still have your original construction lines.

Add Seam and Hem Allowances After Tracing

Once the front and back pieces have been traced separately, add your seam allowances.

Add:

1 cm | 0.4 in

to the:

• side seams;
• center-front seam;
• center-back seam;
• front and back inseams.

Add:

2–3 cm | 0.8–1.2 in

below the finished hemline.

For a simple double-folded hem, I usually add:

3 cm | 1.2 in

Do not add another allowance above an extended waistband unless your chosen construction method requires it.

If seam allowances still feel slightly mysterious, I have a separate beginner guide to understanding seam allowance that explains them in much more detail.

Five Easy Waistband Options

This same basic shorts pattern can be finished with several different waistband styles.

So before you cut your fabric, decide which version you want.

That way you know whether your pattern needs a waistband extension.

Waistband Style	What to Add to the Pattern
Turned elastic casing	Elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in
Separate waistband	No extension on the shorts pattern
Exposed elastic	No waistband extension
Stitched-and-turned elastic	Elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in
Paperbag waistband	Ruffle height + elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in

Turned Elastic Casing

This is probably the simplest option.

Extend the front and back above the finished waistline.

Fold the extension toward the inside and sew a channel for the elastic.

Simple, comfortable, and very hard to overcomplicate.

Separate Waistband

For a separate waistband, do not add an extension to the main shorts pattern.

Cut a separate waistband strip measuring:

Two times the finished waistband height + 2 cm | 0.8 in seam allowance

Attach it to the top of the shorts and insert the elastic through the casing.

Exposed Elastic

For exposed elastic, do not add a waistband extension.

Sew decorative waistband elastic directly to the top edge of the shorts while stretching it evenly.

This gives the shorts a sportier finish and saves you from making a casing.

Stitched-and-Turned Elastic

Add:

Elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in

above the waistline.

Sew the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric, turn it toward the inside, and topstitch.

Paperbag Waistband

For a paperbag waistband, add:

Desired ruffle height + elastic width + 1 cm | 0.4 in

above the finished waistline.

The upper section becomes the ruffle.

The lower section forms the elastic casing.

For example, with a:

2.5 cm | 1.0 in

ruffle and:

3 cm | 1.2 in

elastic, add:

2.5 cm + 3 cm + 1 cm = 6.5 cm | 2.6 in

If you like elastic-waist shorts but would rather use a ready-made pattern, you may also like my Elastic Waist Shorts Sewing Pattern in 9 Sizes.

How Much Elastic Do You Need?

I prefer measuring elastic directly around the body instead of relying on one universal formula.

Wrap the elastic around your waist where the shorts will sit.

Adjust it until it feels secure but still comfortable.

Then add:

2 cm | 0.8 in

for overlapping the ends.

Testing your actual elastic around your waist is more accurate than using one fixed formula because different elastics can have surprisingly different amounts of stretch and firmness.

Two pieces of elastic with exactly the same width can behave completely differently.

Label the Pattern Pieces

Before folding the pattern up and putting it somewhere extremely safe where you will definitely forget about it six months later, label everything.

Write:

• simple shorts pattern;
• front or back;
• cut 2 mirrored;
• grainline;
• hip circumference;
• sitting crotch depth;
• shorts length;
• seam allowance;
• waistband option;
• date or version number.

Draw the grainline parallel to the center-front and center-back lines.

These little notes become very useful when the pattern reappears several months later and looks like a mysterious paper boomerang.

If you would rather start with a ready-made pattern, and want something a little less basic, my free ruffle hem shorts sewing pattern comes in 10 sizes and uses the same comfortable elastic-waist idea.

Sew a Test Pair First

Please don’t skip this part just because the paper pattern looks beautiful.

A paper pattern cannot tell you everything about how fabric will behave on your body.

Use inexpensive cotton, an old bedsheet, or leftover fabric for your first pair.

You don’t need to finish every seam perfectly.

This pair has one job: tell you what needs adjusting.

Try the shorts on and check the fit while:

• standing;
• sitting;
• walking;
• bending;
• lifting one knee.

Look at how the waistband sits.

Check whether the crotch feels comfortable. Make sure the legs have enough room. Notice whether the back waist stays in place when you sit. Mark any changes directly on your test pair, then transfer those corrections back to the paper pattern. After that, sew another pair using the corrected version. That second pattern is the one worth keeping because now it reflects not only your measurements, but also the little adjustments your body actually needs. And once you have that, making the next pair becomes much faster.

One Pattern, A Lot More Than One Pair of Shorts

And this is the part where I tell you not to throw that slightly strange-looking original blueprint away.

Seriously.

Keep it.

Once you sew your test pair, make your little fit corrections, and finally get the pattern sitting the way you like it, you have something much more useful than one pair of shorts.

You have your starting point.

The next time you want another version, trace it instead of changing the original.

Make the legs wider.

Make them longer.

Add pockets.

Add a paperbag waist.

Turn them into pajama shorts.

Make loose lounge shorts.

Add cuffs.

Raise the waist.

Or keep extending those legs and see what happens when your shorts quietly turn into pants.

If you want some inspiration before attacking your fabric stash, have a look at my 7 Free Shorts Sewing Patterns with Video Tutorials.

And if this little rectangle has made you curious about creating more of your own patterns, continue with my beginner guide to making your own sewing patterns.

That is why I like basic patterns so much.

They don’t look particularly exciting lying flat on the table.

This one basically starts life as a rectangle with two funny crotch curves.

But once it fits you?

That quiet little paper mastermind can become the starting point for half your summer wardrobe.

And that’s a pretty good job for one rectangle.