In this post, you will learn how to self draft and sew 12 types of pockets with free PDF patterns.
Pockets are one of the most useful and versatile features of any garment. They can add style, functionality, and convenience to your clothes. Whether you want to store your essentials, keep your hands warm, or make a fashion statement, pockets are the way to go. But how do you sew pockets? And what are the different types of pockets you can choose from?
In this blog post, you will learn how to sew pockets like a pro. You will discover how to make, self-draft, and sew 12 types of pockets for dresses, jackets, coats, shirts, shorts, blouses, and more. You will also get access to free PDF patterns for most of these pockets. Whether you want to sew patch, inseam, welt, zipper, kangaroo, hidden, flap, cargo, or slanted pockets, this post has you covered. Read on to find out how to add style and functionality to your garments with pockets.
What You Need to Make a Pocket Pattern
To make a pocket pattern, you need the following materials and tools:
- A measuring tape
- A pencil
- A ruler , grab my sewing rulers for free from here
- A pair of scissors , learn more on sewing scissors
- A drafting paper and tracing pattern
- A calculator (optional)
How to Draw a Pocket Pattern
Before you start sewing, you need to draw a pocket pattern. You can use any shape or size you like, as long as it fits your garment and your hand. Here are the steps to draw a basic pocket pattern:
Choose your measurements:
Mark the opening of the pocket . This is where you will attach the pocket to the fabric.
Place your hand on the marked opening and trace the shape of the pocket. Make sure to leave some extra space for seam allowance and ease of use.
This is what the drawn pocket looks like:
You can change the shape of the pocket to whatever you like
Cut out the pocket shape from a piece of paper. This is your pocket pattern.
Don’t hold back your creativity and create several different pocket models.
You can also download and print some free pocket patterns from the links below. These patterns include different shapes and sizes of pockets that you can use for various projects.
Free PDF Patterns for Different Pockets
- [Super Easy Pocket Pattern]
- [Free Patch | Coin Pocket Pattern]
- [Free Patch Pocket Pattern]
- [Basic Inset Free Pocket Pattern]
- [Free Basic Inseam Pocket Pattern]
- [Free Basic Inseam Pockets Pattern 2]
- [Free Welt Pocket Pattern]
- [Basic Pocket Free Pattern]
Check out as well:
How to print and assemble free PDF patterns
How to cut out sewing patterns with tips and tools
How to Choose the Best Fabrics for Sewing Pockets
There is no definitive answer to what are the best fabrics for sewing pockets, as it depends on the type of pocket, the style of the garment, and the personal preference of the sewist. However, some general guidelines are:
- For inseam pockets, use a thin and lightweight fabric that matches the main fabric of the garment. This will help the pocket lie flat and not add bulk or weight to the garment. Some examples are cotton lawn, voile, or batiste.
- For patch pockets, use a medium-weight and sturdy fabric that can withstand wear and tear. You can use the same fabric as the garment or a contrasting one for a fun look. Some examples are cotton twill, denim, or canvas.
- For inset pockets, use a fabric that has some stretch and drape, as it will conform to the shape of the pocket opening. You can use the same fabric as the garment or a contrasting one for a fun look. Some examples are knit, jersey, or rayon.
Of course, you can also experiment with different fabrics and embellishments to create unique and personalized pockets.
Sewing Tip
How to Sew a Pocket in a Few Simple Steps
Once you have your pocket pattern ready,I use here basic pocket pattern, you can start sewing.
The basic steps to sew a pocket are:
- Cut four pocket pieces from your fabric. You can use the same fabric as your garment or a contrasting one for a fun look.
- With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket to the garment along the opening. Repeat the same steps on each side (back and front) of the garment.
- Press the seam allowances flat and turn the pocket to the wrong side of the garment. You should see the right side of the pocket on the outside of the garment.
- With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket pieces and the sides of the garment together. Make sure to align the edges and corners of the pocket.
- Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. This will prevent the fabric from fraying and make the pocket more durable.
- Turn the garment to the right side and press the pocket. You can also topstitch the pocket opening for a more polished look.
That’s it! You have just sewn a pocket in a few simple steps. 🤍
Types of Pockets and How to Sew Them
There are many types of pockets that you can sew on your garments. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, depending on the style and function of your project.
Here are some of the most common types of pockets and how to sew them:
Patch pockets:
These are pockets that are created from a patch of fabric placed on top of a garment, with the wrong side down, and then top stitched into place. Sometimes the pocket may be turned inside out, which means that there would not be any visible top stitching unless done so as a design feature.
You can easily get the free PDF pattern from this link and sew them wherever you like. If you want to learn how to do it, check out these super simple sewing tutorials for a jumbo collar dress
and a button-up dress.
Some styles of patch pockets are:
- Coin pockets: These are small patch pockets sewn into jeans pockets, usually on the right front side. They are designed to hold coins and other tiny items. Originally, they were watch pockets that held a pocket watch. Learn how to sew them using these two free PDF patterns , pattern 1 and pattern 2, and sewing tutorials on how to make basic jacket,
buttom up midi skirt , and comfy jacket.
- Accordion pockets: These are patch pockets that have at least one gusset along the perimeter of the pocket, which helps to expand the pocket and hold more items. They are often seen on cargo pants and outerwear garments.
- Kangaroo pockets: These are large patch pockets that cover the front of a sweatshirt or hoodie. They are open on both sides so you can easily slide your hands in and out for extra warmth and storage.
To sew a patch pocket, you need to:
- Cut out the pocket shape from your fabric. You can use the same fabric as your garment or a contrasting one for a fun look.
- Fold and press the seam allowances to the wrong side of the pocket. You can also finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
- Pin and topstitch the pocket to the garment, making sure to align the edges and corners. You can also add some decorative stitches or buttons to the pocket for extra flair.
Inseam pockets:
These are pockets that are sewn into the seams of a garment, such as the side seams of a skirt or pants. They are hidden and discreet, and do not add bulk or weight to the garment. Learn how to sew basic inseam pockets using these two patterns , pattern 1 and pattern 2, and watching sewing tutorials on
and long skirt.
Some styles of inseam pockets are:
- Slanted pockets: These are inseam pockets that have an opening slit that rests along an angle. They are also known as slash pockets or jetted pockets. They are common in suit jackets, sport coats, and dress pants. Learn how to sew them with these shorts sewing tutorial
and comfy pants sewing tutorial.
- Welt pockets: These are inseam pockets that have a narrow strip of fabric along the opening slit, which creates a clean and smooth edge. They are also known as piped pockets or bound pockets. They are often seen in formal and tailored garments, such as blazers, vests, and coats. Here is free PDF pattern for this pocket. And here you can see detailed tutorial how to sew welt pocket
- Side pockets: These are inseam pockets that have a straight opening slit that rests along the side seam of a garment. They are simple and easy to sew, and are suitable for casual and everyday garments, such as skirts, dresses, and pants.
To sew an inseam pocket, you need to:
- Cut four pocket pieces from your fabric. You can use the same fabric as your garment or a contrasting one for a fun look.
- With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket to the garment along the opening. Repeat the same steps on each side (back and front) of the garment.
- Press the seam allowances flat and turn the pocket to the wrong side of the garment. You should see the right side of the pocket on the outside of the garment.
- With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket pieces and the sides of the garment together. Make sure to align the edges and corners of the pocket.
- Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. This will prevent the fabric from fraying and make the pocket more durable.
Watch my super easy sewing tutorials learn how to add them to pants .
Inset pockets:
These are pockets that are created by cutting a hole or slit in the garment, and then attaching a pocket pouch to the inside of the garment. They are also known as cut-in pockets or slash pockets. Use this free PDF pattern for basic inset pockets and add them to your dresses, learn how to do it in these video tutorials on sewing comfy basic midi dress
and cute balloon sleeve fitted midi dress.
Some styles of inset pockets are:
- Flap pockets: These are inset pockets that have a fold of fabric over the pocket opening to keep items secure. The flap can be buttoned, snapped, or left loose. They are often seen in jackets, shirts, and pants. Watch this video tutorial and learn how to self draft them and add to any coat.
- Zipper pockets: These are inset pockets that have a zipper along the pocket opening to keep items secure. The zipper can be exposed or concealed. They are often seen in sportswear, activewear, outerwear garments, and bags. Learn how to make such pockets in this bag sewing tutorial.
- Buttonhole pockets: These are inset pockets that have a buttonhole along the pocket opening to keep items secure. The buttonhole can be sewn or embroidered. They are often seen in vintage and retro garments, such as cardigans, sweaters, pants and coats. Learn how to sew them with ladies blazer sewing tutorial
and high-waisted trousers video tutorial.
To sew an inset pocket, you need to:
Cut out the pocket opening from your garment. You can use a template or a ruler to mark the shape and size of the opening. Make sure to leave some extra space for seam allowance and ease of use.
- Cut out the pocket pouch from your fabric. You can use the same fabric as your garment or a contrasting one for a fun look. The pocket pouch should be slightly larger than the pocket opening.
- With right sides together, pin and sew the pocket pouch to the garment along the opening. Make sure to align the edges and corners of the pocket.
- Turn the pocket pouch to the wrong side of the garment and press the seam allowances flat. You should see the right side of the pocket on the inside of the garment.
- If you want to add a flap, a zipper, or a buttonhole to the pocket opening, you can do so at this stage. Follow the instructions for each type of closure.
- Finish the raw edges of the pocket pouch with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. This will prevent the fabric from fraying and make the pocket more durable.
Congratulations, you have learned how to sew pockets for your garments. You have mastered how to make, self-draft, and sew 12 types of pockets: patch, inseam, welt, zipper, kangaroo, hidden, flap, cargo, and slanted pockets.You have also downloaded the free PDF patterns for most of these pockets. You are now ready to apply your skills and creativity to your sewing projects.
Whether you want to sew pockets for dresses, jackets, coats, shirts, blouses, or any other clothing item, you have the knowledge and the resources to do it.
I hope you enjoyed this blog post and found it useful. If you have any questions, comments, or feedback, please leave them below. I would love to hear from you. Happy sewing!
In this post, you have learned how to draft and sew different types of pockets to dresses, jackets, shorts, coats and more.
Disclaimer: All the patterns that I provide on this blog are for private and personal use only. You are not allowed to sell, distribute, modify, or share these patterns for any commercial or profit purposes. These patterns are my original creations and intellectual property, and I reserve all the rights to them. Please respect my work and do not violate these terms of use. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation.
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