In this post you learn how to sew welt pocket with free pdf pattern.
Hello! I have a very exciting tutorial for you today. I’m going to show you how to sew a single welt pocket, which is a type of pocket that has one strip of fabric on the outside, creating a slit opening. It looks very neat and professional, and it’s perfect for adding some flair and functionality to your garments.
A single welt pocket is not very difficult to make, but it does require some precision and patience.
The Supplies You Will Require:
- some fabric, learn more on fabrics
- fusible interfacing,
- a fabric pen,
- scissors,
- an iron,
- a seam ripper,
- a ruler,
- sewing pins
Learn how to use those sewing essential tools.
You will also need some lining fabric, which can be cotton, 100% bemberg viscose, 60% acetate 40% viscose, 97% cotton 3% elastane, or 100% acetate.
Check out my post on lining fabrics.
In this tutorial, I will show you the steps to make a single welt pocket, from marking and cutting the pocket opening, to sewing and turning the welt strip, to attaching and finishing the pocket bag. You can sew this pocket to jackets, coats, pants, or any other garment that you like. It will give your clothes a more polished and sophisticated look, and it will also provide you with some extra storage space.
This tutorial is suitable for intermediate sewers who have some experience with sewing pockets. If you are a beginner, you can still give it a try, but make sure to follow the instructions carefully and practice on some scrap fabric first. I promise you, once you master this pocket, you will be able to create amazing garments that will impress everyone.
Free PDF Pattern for Welt Pocket
To make this tutorial easier for you, I have also included a free PDF printable pattern for this pocket. You can download it from the link below and print it out on A4 paper.
[Download the free PDF pattern here]
Check out as well:
How to print and assemble free PDF patterns
How to cut out sewing patterns with tips and tools
Step by Step Video Tutorial
To follow this tutorial, you will also need to watch my video on my YouTube channel, where I demonstrate how to sew a single welt pocket. The video is very clear and detailed, and it will guide you through the whole process. You can watch the video by clicking on the link below or on the image.
[Watch the video here]
Now, let’s get started with the tutorial!
Step 1: Cut the Fabric Pieces
The first step is to cut the fabric pieces for the pocket. You will need to cut the following pieces:
- One pocket opening piece from the main fabric. This is the piece where you will make the pocket opening on the garment. You can use the pattern to cut this piece, or you can measure and mark the pocket opening on your garment directly. The pocket opening should be about 12 cm (4.7 inches) long and 2 cm (0.8 inches) wide. The pocket opening piece should be about 15 cm (5.9 inches) long and 10 cm (3.9 inches) wide.
- One welt strip piece from the main fabric. This is the piece that will form the welt on the outside of the pocket. You can use the pattern to cut this piece, or you can measure and cut a rectangle that is 15 cm (5.9 inches) long and 4 cm (1.6 inches) wide.
- Two pocket bag pieces from the lining fabric. These are the pieces that will form the pocket bag on the inside of the pocket. You can use the pattern to cut these pieces, or you can measure and cut two rectangles that are 15 cm (5.9 inches) long and 18 cm (7.1 inches) wide.
Step 2: Fuse the Interfacing
The next step is to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket opening piece and the welt strip piece. The interfacing will help to stabilize and reinforce the pocket opening and the welt. You can use any lightweight or medium weight fusible interfacing that is suitable for your fabric. Cut two pieces of interfacing that are slightly smaller than the pocket opening piece and the welt strip piece. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric pieces, aligning the edges. Then, use an iron to fuse the interfacing to the fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 3: Mark and Cut the Pocket Opening
The next step is to mark and cut the pocket opening on the pocket opening piece. You can use the pattern to mark the pocket opening, or you can use a ruler and a fabric pen to draw a rectangle that is 12 cm (4.7 inches) long and 2 cm (0.8 inches) wide. The rectangle should be centered on the pocket opening piece, and about 2.5 cm (1 inch) away from the top edge. Then, use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut along the rectangle, leaving about 1 cm (0.4 inches) uncut at both ends.
Step 4: Sew the Welt Strip to the Pocket Opening
The next step is to sew the welt strip to the pocket opening. Place the welt strip piece on the right side of the pocket opening piece, aligning the long edges. The welt strip piece should cover the pocket opening, and the right sides of the fabric should be facing each other. Pin the welt strip piece to the pocket opening piece, making sure to match the corners of the pocket opening. Then, use a sewing machine or a hand needle to sew along the pocket opening, using a straight stitch and a 1 cm (0.4 inches) seam allowance. Start and stop at the uncut ends of the pocket opening, and backstitch at both ends to secure the stitches.
Step 5: Cut and Turn the Welt Strip to the Right Side
The next step is to cut and turn the welt strip to the right side. Use a seam ripper or a small pair of scissors to carefully cut the uncut ends of the pocket opening, making sure not to cut the stitches or the welt strip. Then, use your fingers to push the welt strip through the pocket opening to the wrong side of the pocket opening piece. Pull the welt strip all the way through, and flatten it with your fingers. You should see a slit opening on the right side of the pocket opening piece, with the welt strip underneath. Use an iron to press the pocket opening and the welt strip, making sure to fold the seam allowances to the wrong side.
Step 6: Sew the Pocket Bag to the Welt Strip
The next step is to sew the pocket bag to the welt strip. Place one pocket bag piece on the wrong side of the pocket opening piece, aligning the top edge with the welt strip. The right sides of the fabric should be facing each other. Pin the pocket bag piece to the welt strip, making sure to catch the seam allowances. Then, use a sewing machine or a hand needle to sew along the top edge, using a straight stitch and a 1 cm (0.4 inches) seam allowance. Start and stop at the edges of the welt strip, and backstitch at both ends to secure the stitches.
Step 7: Finish the Pocket Edges and Secure the Pocket Bag
The final step is to finish the pocket edges and secure the pocket bag. Place the other pocket bag piece on the wrong side of the pocket opening piece, aligning the bottom edge with the pocket opening. The right sides of the fabric should be facing each other. Pin the pocket bag piece to the pocket opening piece, making sure to match the side edges. Then, use a sewing machine or a hand needle to sew along the side and bottom edges, using a straight stitch and a 1 cm (0.4 inches) seam allowance. Start and stop at the edges of the pocket opening, and backstitch at both ends to secure the stitches. This will create a pocket bag that is attached to the pocket opening and the welt strip.
To finish the pocket edges, you can use a serger, a zigzag stitch, or a pinking shears to trim and neaten the seam allowances. To secure the pocket bag, you can use a hand needle and a thread to sew a few stitches at the corners of the pocket opening, catching the pocket bag and the welt strip. This will prevent the pocket bag from sagging or moving around.
And that’s it! You have just learned how to sew a single welt pocket. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found it useful. You can now use this pocket to add some flair and functionality to your garments. You can sew this pocket to jackets, coats, pants, or any other garment that you like. It will give your clothes a more polished and sophisticated look, and it will also provide you with some extra storage space.
I would love to see your creations and hear your feedback. Please share your photos and comments with me on my social media accounts or on my blog. You can find the links in the sidebar. Also, if you have any questions or suggestions for future tutorials, please let me know. I’m always happy to hear from you.
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That’s all for today. I hope you have a wonderful day and happy sewing. Happy sewing!
