In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a bustier cup top and dress with my free PDF patterns.
Do you want to learn how to sew a bustier top from scratch? A bustier cup top is a fitted garment that accentuates the bust and waist, creating a flattering silhouette. You can wear it with skirts, pants, jeans, or shorts, and style it for different occasions. You can also customize it to suit your personal taste and creativity.
In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a bustier cup top using basic sewing tools and techniques. You will learn how to:
- Choose the fabric, notions, and sewing tools you will need to make the bustier top.
- Draft a custom bustier top pattern from your measurements, or download a free pattern online.
- Modify the pattern to create different styles, such as adding straps, changing the neckline, or adding details like buttons, lace, or embroidery.
- Sew the bustier top, with photos or videos to illustrate each step.
- Finish the bustier cup top, by hemming, pressing, and embellishing it.
- Care for your bustier top, to keep it in good shape and condition.
By the end of this tutorial, you will have a beautiful bustier top that you can proudly wear and show off. You will also have learned some valuable sewing skills that you can apply to other projects. So, let’s get started!
Best Fabrics and Materials for Bustier Cup Tops
Before you start sewing your bustier top, you need to gather the following materials and tools:
- Fabric: Choose a woven fabric that has some stretch, such as cotton, linen, denim, or satin. This will make your bustier top more comfortable and fit better. You need about 1 yard of fabric, depending on your size and style. You can also mix and match different fabrics for the cups, the bodice, or the straps, to create a unique look. Learn more on fabrics in this post.
- Zipper: Attach a zipper to the back of your bustier top, to make it easy to put on and take off. You can use any type of zipper, such as a regular, invisible, or exposed zipper. You can also use a hook and eye closure instead of a zipper. You need a zipper that is about 12 inches long, or the length of your back.
Special for bustier cup top
- Bra foam: Use bra foam to make the cups of your bustier top. Bra foam is a thin, flexible, and lightweight material that gives shape and support to the bust. You can find bra foam at any fabric store or online. You need about 1/4 yard of bra foam, or enough to cover your bra cups.
- Plastic bones: Insert plastic bones to the seams of your bustier top, to add structure and stability. Plastic bones are thin, flexible, and easy to sew. You can find plastic bones at any fabric store or online. You need about 10 plastic bones, or enough to cover the seams of your bustier top.
Basic tools:
- Notions: Gather some basic notions, such as thread, pins, scissors, tape measure, ruler, chalk, seam ripper, and iron. You will use these to measure, cut, mark, and sew your fabric. You also need some optional notions, such as buttons, lace, embroidery, or beads, if you want to add some details to your bustier top. Check out my detailed post on how to use essential sewing tools.
- Sewing machine: Use a sewing machine to sew your bustier top. You also need some sewing machine accessories, such as a zipper foot, a buttonhole foot, and a zigzag stitch. You can also use a serger or an overlock machine to finish the edges of your fabric, if you have one. Check out my post on how to choose and use sewing machines.
These are the materials and tools you need to make your bustier top. Make sure you have everything ready before you start sewing.
How to Download My Free Updated Bustier Cup Pattern and Check Your Measurements
The pattern comes in two types, with different shapes and styles. You can print the pattern, cut it out, and tape it together. You can also adjust the pattern to your size and style, as I will explain in the next sections.
To use the pattern, you need to check your measurements, and compare them to the pattern measurements. You need to measure your underbust and your waist, and find the corresponding sizes on the pattern. You can use a tape measure and a mirror, to measure yourself accurately. Here are the steps to measure yourself and pattern:
Underbust:
Wrap the tape measure around your rib cage, just below your bust. Make sure the tape measure is snug, but not too tight. Write down the measurement in centimeters or inches.
Waist:
Wrap the tape measure around your natural waist, which is the narrowest part of your torso. Make sure the tape measure is level, and not twisted. Write down the measurement in centimeters or inches.
Once you have your measurements, you can find the matching sizes on the pattern. The pattern has two sets of measurements, for the front and the back pieces. You need to check both sets, and choose the size that fits you best. You can also mix and match different sizes, if you are in between sizes. For example, if your underbust is size 6, and your waist is size 8, you can use size 6 for the front pieces, and size 8 for the back pieces.
Check out my detailed post on how to measure yourself.
Bustier Cup Top Self Pattern Drafting and Free PDF Patterns
The first step to make your bustier top is to choose a pattern that suits your measurements and preferences. You have two options: you can either draft your own pattern, or use one of my ready-made patterns that you can download for free from this post. Here are the pros and cons of each option:
- Draft your own pattern: This option gives you more control and customization over your bustier top. You can create a pattern that fits your exact measurements and style. However, this option also requires more time and skill. You will need to take some measurements of your bust, waist, and back. You will also need to trace your bra cup on a pattern paper, and adjust it to fit your bustier top style. I will show you how to do this later in this post. You can also watch my detailed video tutorials to learn how to draft your own bustier top patterns. The links are below in this post.
- Use my ready-made pattern: This option is faster and easier than drafting your own pattern. You can simply print the pattern, cut it out, and tape it together. However, this option also has some limitations. You may need to adjust the pattern to your size and style, by adding or removing seam allowances, lengthening or shortening the bodice, or changing the shape of the cups.
Choose the option that works best for you, and get ready to make your bustier top. If you want to learn more about bustier tops, you can check out the following resources:
Bustier Cup Pattern Drafting:
Learn how to draft your own bustier top pattern from scratch, using different methods and techniques. You can watch these video tutorials to see how it’s done:
How to measure yourself for self pattern drafting.
1 Method
2 Method
3 Method
How to Sew a Bustier Cup Dress:
Learn how to sew a bustier dress, which is a dress that has a bustier top as the bodice. You can follow these step-by-step guides to see how it’s done:
How to Sew a Bustier Dress with Pocket and Puff Sleeves
How to Sew a Bustier Dress with Corset Tie
Free Pattern for Two Types of Bustier Cup Tops:
Download these free patterns for two types of bustiers, and use them to make your own bustier tops. You can print the patterns, cut them out, and tape them together. You can also adjust the patterns to your size and style, as explained in the pattern section.
The pattern is available at the end of the post for blog subscribers. Subscribing is free.
Update:
Check out as well:
Print and assemble free PDF patterns
How to cut out sewing patterns with tips and tools
How to Customize Your Bustier Cup Top Pattern
One of the best things about making your own bustier top is that you can customize it to your liking. You can modify the pattern to create different styles and add some details to make it more unique and interesting. Here are some pattern hacking ideas that you can try:
Add straps:
To add some extra support and comfort to your bustier top, you can add straps. You can make the straps adjustable, by adding sliders and rings, or make the straps detachable, by adding hooks and eyes. Think of using the same fabric as the bustier top, or a different fabric for contrast. You can also use ribbon, elastic, or chain for the straps. Check out my detailed video tutorial on how to make straps and belts from fabric scraps.
Change the neckline:
To change the look of your bustier cup top, you can change the shape of the neckline. You can make the neckline higher or lower, wider or narrower, straight or curved, or asymmetrical. You can also add a collar, a ruffle, or a bow to the neckline. Changing the neckline can make your bustier top more flattering and stylish.
Add details:
If you want to add some fun and attractiveness to your bustier top, you can add some details. You can add buttons, lace, embroidery, or beads to the cups, the bodice, the straps, or the hem. You can also add pockets, pleats, or darts to the bodice, to create some shape and interest. Adding details can make your bustier top more personalized and creative. Check out my video tutorial on how to ass button metal snap fasteners to your bustier. Or how to sew on buttons when you don’t have button foot.
These are some of the ways you can customize your bustier top pattern. You can mix and match different ideas, or come up with your own. The possibilities are endless.
How to Sew Your Bustier Cup Top
Now that you have your pattern and your materials ready, you can start sewing your bustier top. Follow these steps to make your bustier top:
Cutting
- Step 1: Cut the fabric, the bra foam, and the plastic bones. Use your pattern to cut the fabric, the bra foam, and the plastic bones to the right size and shape. Mark the seam allowances, the darts, and the notches on the fabric. Transfer any markings from the pattern to the fabric, using chalk or pins.
Sewing
- Step 2: Sew the darts. Fold the fabric along the dart line, right sides together, and stitch along the dart edge. Press the darts towards the center of the bust or the bodice. Do this for the bust and the bodice pieces.
- Step 3: Sew the bra foam. Place the bra foam on the wrong side of the fabric, and stitch along the seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch. Trim the excess bra foam close to the stitching line. Do this for the bust pieces.
- Step 4: Sew the bust pieces. Place the bust pieces right sides together, and stitch along the center front seam. Press the seam open or to one side.
- Step 5: Sew the plastic bones. Place the plastic bones along the seam lines, on the wrong side of the fabric, and stitch along the edges of the plastic bones, using a straight stitch. Cut the plastic bones to the length of the seam, and cover the ends with tape or fabric, to prevent them from poking through the fabric. Do this for the bust and the bodice pieces.
- Step 6: Sew the bodice pieces. Place the bodice pieces right sides together, and stitch along the side seams and the back seams. Press the seams open or to one side.
- Step 7: Sew the bust to the bodice. Place the bust and the bodice right sides together, and stitch along the upper edge, matching the notches and the seams. Press the seam towards the bodice.
Sewing – final touches
- Step 8: Sew the zipper. Place the zipper on the right side of the fabric, along the center back seam, and stitch along the zipper tape, using a zipper foot. Alternatively, you can sew a hook and eye closure to the back of the bustier top, by placing the hook and eye on the right side of the fabric, along the center back seam, and stitching them in place, using a straight stitch.
- Step 9: Sew the straps. Place the straps on the right side of the fabric, along the upper edge of the bust, and stitch them in place, using a straight stitch. You can also sew the straps to the back of the bustier top, or make them adjustable or detachable, as explained in the pattern hacking section.
Hemming
- Step 10: Hem the bustier top. Fold the lower edge of the fabric to the wrong side, by 1/4 inch, and then by another 1/4 inch, and stitch along the folded edge, using a straight stitch. Press the hem flat.
Congratulations, you have finished sewing your bustier top! You can now wear it and enjoy it.
How to Finish Your Bustier Cup Top
The last step to make your bustier top is to add some finishing touches. Here are some things you can do to complete your bustier top:
- Press the bustier top. Use an iron and a pressing cloth to smooth out any wrinkles and creases on your bustier top. This will make your bustier top look more neat and professional. Be careful not to scorch or melt the fabric with the iron.
- Embellish the bustier top. Add some details to your bustier top, such as buttons, lace, embroidery, or beads, to make it more unique and attractive. You can use a needle and thread, a sewing machine, or a glue gun, to attach the embellishments to the fabric. You can embellish the bust, the bodice, the straps, or the hem of your bustier top.
- Try on the bustier top. Put on your bustier top and check the fit and the style. Make sure the bustier top is comfortable and flattering. You can also style your bustier top with different outfits and accessories, to create different looks.
You have now finished your bustier top. You can now wear it and enjoy it.
How to Reduce or Enlarge the Waist of a Pattern
One of the most common adjustments you may need to make to a pattern is the waist. If the waist of the pattern is too big or too small for you, you can easily change it by following these steps:
Mark the center of the pattern piece, either on the fold line or the grain line.
Draw a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the pattern piece, through the center mark.
Cut along the line, dividing the pattern piece into two halves.
To enlarge the waist,
spread the two halves apart by the amount you need, and tape them to a new piece of paper. For example, if you need to add 4 cm to the waist, spread the two halves by 2 cm each, and tape them to a new piece of paper. Repeat this for each pattern piece that affects the waist, such as the front, the side, and the back pieces.
To reduce the waist,
overlap the two halves by the amount you need, and tape them together. For example, if you need to subtract 4 cm from the waist, overlap the two halves by 2 cm each, and tape them together. Repeat this for each pattern piece that affects the waist, such as the front, the side, and the back pieces.
This method will also change the size of the upper part (underbust) of the pattern, but only in the back pieces. If you want to change the size of the upper part in the front pieces, you can use the same method, but draw the line horizontally instead of vertically.
How to Reduce or Enlarge the Bust of a Pattern
Another common adjustment you may need to make to a pattern is the bust. If the bust of the pattern is too big or too small for you, you can easily change it by following these steps:
Redraw the bust curve of the pattern piece, using a French curve or a plate. You can make the curve higher or lower, wider or narrower, depending on your preference.
Cut along the new bust curve, removing the excess or adding the extra fabric.
To enlarge the bust,
cut the pattern piece in half along the center of the bust curve, and spread the two halves apart by the amount you need, and tape them to a new piece of paper. For example, if you need to add 2 cm to the bust, spread the two halves by 1 cm each, and tape them to a new piece of paper.
To reduce the bust,
cut the pattern piece in half along the center of the bust curve, and overlap the two halves by the amount you need, and tape them together. For example, if you need to subtract 2 cm from the bust, overlap the two halves by 1 cm each, and tape them together.
This method will change the shape and size of the bust cups of the pattern. You can also use this method to change the style of the bust cups, such as making them more rounded or pointed.
How to Reduce or Enlarge the Pattern with Pattern Grading
If you want to reduce or enlarge the whole pattern, not just a specific part, you can use the method of pattern grading. Pattern grading is the process of changing the size of a pattern, while maintaining the shape and proportions. You can use this method to make the pattern bigger or smaller, by following these steps:
Measure the distance between the sizes on the pattern, at different points, such as the bust, the waist, the hips, and the length. For example, if the pattern has sizes 6, 8, 10, and 12, measure the distance between size 6 and 8, size 8 and 10, and size 10 and 12, at each point.
Add or subtract the same distance to the pattern, at the same points, to make it bigger or smaller. For example, if you want to make the pattern size 14, add the same distance as between size 10 and 12, to size 12, at each point. If you want to make the pattern size 4, subtract the same distance as between size 6 and 8, from size 6, at each point.
Draw new lines to connect the new points, using a ruler or a curve. Cut along the new lines, to get the new pattern size.
This method will change the size of the pattern, while keeping the shape and proportions. However, this method may not work for all patterns, especially if they have complex details or shapes. You may need to make some adjustments to the fit or style, after grading the pattern.
How to Style Bustier Cup Tops and Dresses ?
Here are some tips on how to wear them:
For a casual look, pair your bustier top with shorts, jeans, or a maxi skirt. You can also layer a cardigan, a bomber jacket, or a scarf over your top for some extra warmth and coziness.
For a night out, go for a mini skirt, a pencil skirt, or a pair of trousers with your bustier top. You can add some edge with a leather jacket, a blazer, or a corset over your top. Don’t forget to accessorize with heels, a clutch, and some jewelry.
For a feminine look, choose a bustier dress with a floral print, a lace detail, or a ruffle hem. You can also wear a bustier top with a skater skirt, an A-line skirt, or a flared skirt. Complete your outfit with wedges, sandals, or flats, and a cute bag.
In this post, you learned how to make a bustier top from scratch, using basic sewing tools and techniques. You also learned how to reduce or enlarge a pattern, how to customize your bustier top pattern, and how to finish your bustier top. You can use these skills to make your own bustier tops, or other garments, with your personal touch and creativity.
I hope you enjoyed this post and found it useful. If you did, please share it with your friends, leave a comment, or subscribe to my blog newsletter. You can also download my free bustier pattern from my blog newsletter, and use it to make your own bustier tops.
In this post, you learned how to make a bustier top from scratch, using basic sewing tools and techniques.
2 Free Bustier Sewing Pattern
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