High Waist Wide Leg Pants DIY – Free PDF

If wide-leg pants are one of those things you keep saving to your sewing board but never actually make, this is a good project to finally try. In this tutorial, I’m sewing a pair of high-waisted wide leg pants with pleats, side pockets, a zipper fly, belt loops, and a proper waistband — and I’ve included my free wide leg pants sewing pattern in 8 sizes so you don’t have to draft everything from scratch.

These are a little more involved than simple elastic-waist pants, but that is exactly why I like this project. You get to practice several useful garment-sewing techniques in one pair of pants, and the finished result looks much more tailored than a beginner pull-on pattern.

There is also a full video tutorial if you prefer watching the steps while you sew. And if you’d rather create the pattern from your own measurements, you can follow my self-drafting palazzo pants tutorial instead.

About This Free Wide Leg Pants Sewing Pattern

This pattern is designed for high-waisted, wide-leg pants with a more tailored finish rather than an elastic waistband.

The design includes:

• high waist
• wide legs
• front pleats
• slash pockets
• back waist darts
• zipper fly
• fitted waistband
• belt loops
• hook-and-eye closure
• 8 pattern sizes
• full photo and video tutorial

I would call this an advanced-beginner sewing project. The basic seams are straightforward, but the zipper fly, pockets, and waistband make it a nice project if you’re ready to move beyond very simple beginner garments.

The free PDF sewing pattern is available for my subscribers to download at the end of this post, so you can follow the tutorial first and then grab the pattern when you’re ready to start sewing.

Watch the Wide Leg Pants Video Tutorial

If you learn more easily by watching each step, you can follow my full wide leg pants sewing video alongside the photo tutorial below.

I show you how I assemble the pants, sew the pleats and pockets, insert the zipper fly, attach the waistband and belt loops, and finish the hem.

Materials & Tools Needed

Materials:

✔ Fabric – Choose a drapey or structured fabric depending on your desired look (e.g., rayon, linen, twill).
✔ Zipper (20 cm / 7.87 in) – Needed for the front zipper fly closure.
✔ Interfacing – Adds stability to the waistband and fly.
✔ Thread – Match it to your fabric for a clean, professional finish. Learn more here.
✔ Hook & Eye – Secures the waistband closure.

Tools:

✔ Sewing machine – Speeds up the process and ensures strong seams.
✔ Fabric Scissors – For precise cutting of fabric pieces, learn more on using scissors.
✔ Pins & Clips – Keep fabric in place while sewing.
✔ Measuring Tape – Helps ensure accurate cutting and fit.
✔ Iron & Pressing Cloth – Essential for pressing pleats, darts, and seams.
✔Seam ripper – Fixes any mistakes easily, learn how to use it here.
✔ Marking Chalk or Fabric Pen – Marks pleats, darts, and other sewing lines.

You will also need a magnetic seam guide or a magnet to help you sew evenly.

Having the right materials and tools makes the sewing process smoother and ensures a professional-looking finish!

Suggested Fabric & Quantity

For the best results, choose fabrics that have a nice drape and feel comfortable to wear. Here are some great options:

Recommended Fabrics:

✔ Light to Medium-Weight Fabrics – Perfect for flowy, elegant wide-leg pants.

• Rayon
• Viscose
• Crepe
• Linen blends
• Tencel
• Soft cotton (like cotton voile or lawn)

✔ Structured Fabrics – If you prefer a more tailored look.

• Lightweight denim
• Twill
• Suiting fabrics

Fabric Quantity:

The amount of fabric you need depends on your size and the fabric width. Below is a general guide based on a fabric width of 55 inches (140 cm):

• Sizes XS–M: 1.8–2 yards (1.6–1.8 meters)
• Sizes L–XL: 2.2–2.5 yards (2–2.3 meters)
• Sizes XXL and above: 2.5–3 yards (2.3–2.7 meters)

If your fabric is narrower (45 inches / 115 cm), you may need extra fabric, so always check your pattern layout before cutting!

💡 Pro Tip: If you’re using a fabric with a print or stripes, you might need more fabric to match the pattern perfectly.

Make Your Own Wide-Leg Pants – Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Cutting Your Fabric

Once you’ve selected your fabric and pattern, it’s time to cut the pieces. Ensure you follow these steps for precision:

• Front x 2
• Back x 2
• Zipper Fly
• Zipper Guard
• Belt x 1
• Belt Loops x 4 (or more if desired)
• Pockets x 4

General Cutting Tips:

• Always pre-wash your fabric to prevent shrinkage after sewing.
• Lay out the fabric on a flat surface, ensuring it is smooth and wrinkle-free.
• Pin the pattern pieces carefully, aligning the grainlines for accurate cutting.
• Cut directly along the pattern edges — seam allowance is already included in the PDF pattern.

Sewing the Front Pants: Pleats

Pleating may seem tricky, but with a little practice, you’ll be sewing perfect pleats effortlessly. Follow these steps:

• Mark the Pleats: Use a fabric marking pen to indicate pleat placement. Pleats are typically evenly spaced, but adjust based on your design preference.
• Fold the Pleats: Starting from one edge, fold along the marked lines to create pleats. Secure with pins.
• Press the Pleats: Use a hot iron with steam to set the pleats in place before sewing.
• Sew the Pleats: Using a straight stitch, sew along the top edge of the pleats to secure them. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end for durability.

Sewing the Front Crotch

With right sides together, sew the crotch seam, leaving 20 cm (7.87 inches) unstitched.

Sewing the Zipper Fly

• Zipper length: 20 cm (7.87 inches)
• Cut the zipper guard and front zipper facing

Steps to Sew the Zipper Fly:

• Prepare the Fly Guard: Fold it with right sides together, stitch along the lower curved edge, then turn it right-side out and press.
• Attach the Fly Facing: Place it on the left front edge and stitch from the top to the start of the crotch seam. Press.
• Pin and Sew the Zipper & Zipper Guard: Align them correctly before stitching.
• Sew the Rounded Shape: Pin the front and stitch along the curved edge for a clean finish.

If this is your first trouser zipper, my beginner zipper fly tutorial shows the whole process in much more detail.

Sewing the Slash Pocket

For a more detailed pocket tutorial, click here.

• Cut out the pocket pieces.
• Pin the right sides together to the front waistband.
• Fold in half and sew again to secure the shape.

Sewing the Back Waist Darts

• Fold along the dart lines, ensuring accuracy.
• Pin and sew the darts securely.

Sewing the Back Crotch

• With right sides together, pin and sew the back crotch seam.

Sewing the Sides and Center of the Pants Legs

• With right sides together, pin the side seams and center seams.
• Sew along the pinned lines to assemble the pants.

Sewing the Waistband Loops

• Cut a fabric strip measuring 32 cm (12.59 inches) long and 4 cm (1.57 inches) wide.
• Fold right sides together and sew along the length.
• Cut into four equal parts (each 8 cm / 3.14 inches long).
• Attach the Belt Loops: Pin two on the front and two on the back, then sew them securely.

Sewing the Waistband

• With right sides together, pin the waistband to the waist of the pants and sew.
• Fold and sew again for a neat finish.
• Secure the Belt Loops by pinning them at the top of the waistband and stitching them in place.

Sewing the Hook & Eye Closure

1. Attach the hook & eye to the waistband for a secure closure.

Sewing the Hem

• Double fold the bottom edge of the pants.
• Sew along the fold to finish the hem neatly.

Following these steps ensures you’ll have a well-constructed and stylish pair of high-waisted wide-leg pants!

How to Style Your Wide Leg Pants

Wide leg pants are easy to style because the shape already makes a statement. I usually keep the top a little more fitted so the high waist stays visible.

For warmer days, pair them with my free singlet tank top or tie-front top.

When it gets cooler, add my free cardigan or a handmade jacket. It is an easy way to turn these pants into part of a whole handmade wardrobe.

Wide Leg Pants Sewing Pattern FAQ

Is the wide leg pants sewing pattern free?

Yes. The PDF pattern is free for my subscribers and comes in 8 sizes. You can access the download at the end of this tutorial.

Is seam allowance included in the pattern?

Yes. Seam allowance is already included, so you should cut directly along the pattern lines without adding additional seam allowance.

What fabric should I use for wide leg pants?

For a softer, flowing pair, choose a light- to medium-weight woven fabric with good drape, such as viscose, rayon, Tencel, crepe, or a linen blend. If you want a more structured, tailored look, lightweight twill or suiting fabric works better.

Are these wide leg pants beginner-friendly?

I would recommend them for an advanced beginner rather than as a very first sewing project. The main construction is straightforward, but you will also sew pleats, slash pockets, a zipper fly, darts, belt loops, and a fitted waistband. If you’re completely new to pants, my Scandi pants are an easier place to start.

What to Sew Next

If you enjoyed sewing these pants, I have a few more projects that make a really nice next step.

For something easier and more relaxed, try my Scandi pants free sewing pattern. They are one of my favorite options when I want comfortable handmade pants without the more tailored zipper-and-waistband construction.

If you still want that wide-leg silhouette but prefer a shorter version, my wide leg culottes sewing tutorial is another fun option and comes with a free PDF pattern and video.

Or skip the PDF completely and make my shorts without a pattern. You draft them directly onto your fabric using a few simple body measurements.

And if you’re building a handmade outfit rather than just sewing one piece, these pants look especially good with my simple tank top pattern and free cardigan sewing pattern.

Ready to Sew Your Own Wide Leg Pants?

And that’s it — your handmade high-waisted wide leg pants are finished!

I really like this pattern because it has that relaxed wide-leg shape but still feels polished thanks to the pleats, pockets, zipper fly, and fitted waistband. Once you’ve made one pair, it’s also a really fun pattern to remake in different fabrics for completely different looks.

If you’d rather create a pair exactly from your own measurements, you can also try my self-drafting palazzo pants tutorial.

And don’t forget — the free wide leg pants PDF pattern in 8 sizes is available for my subscribers to download below. I hope you enjoy sewing them as much as I did!

Free Wide Leg Pants Sewing Pattern for My Subscribers